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Everything posted by daddymack

  1. People who buy amps like Uberschalls, Soldanos and Engls are not the kind who want 'close enough'. So I am curious to whom are they marketing this, because the cost of entry is still pretty high.
  2. To me, the real question is, in an a/b blind test, are they really 'correct'?
  3. little rectangular tinfoil hats?
  4. The idea has [as noted] been done before. The Synergy 'pre-amp' modules are $400 each...which ain't bad to get an Engl, Friedman, Plexi or an Uberschall...sort of...
  5. Geez...no readable logo on the headstock... There are so many custom models of Teles out there, I don't know that there is anyone who can give you a definitive answer except the guy who owns it. That said, a quick couple of googles and some reading lead me to believe this may be a TMG custom Gatton thinline. Micah plays with Iration, a SoCal based band...so you might be able to ask there!
  6. Let's start with teh two most likely suspects: loose jack or bad cable, both easily verifiable and easy to fix. Have you experienced the 'signal loss' with a different cable? Rule #1...make sure your cable is good. Rule #2: always have a backup cable. Is the nut on the output jack tight or loose? If it is loose, tighten it. Also check the nut on the amplifier input You can do it!
  7. welcome neuro! Was ist los? Obviously you want something suitable for playing 'metal'. It would be hard to recommend without knowing your price limits, especially based on the choices that you have here. The 'ESP-LTD EC 10' streets at about $200[us][€166], a decent 'starter' Les Paul style, 2H/1V/1T...the Cort CR150 looks like it may have been discontinued...but if you can find one used, I would take that over the ESP. I'm not certain what is currently available in Europe, but you might look at the Harley-Benton Les Paul style guitars like the SC550. But there are plenty of other decent starter instruments suitable to playing 'metal' in that €125-250 range...Samick, Squire, Epiphone, Ibanez...and the 'new Chinese' lines like Glarry.
  8. Considering that this issue was refuted and solved on page one [15 years ago!]...I would like to see the evidence you think you remember from 1959... otherwise I will be deleting your post and returning this thread to zombieland.
  9. This is the second zombie thread you have resurrected, and I pointed you to a website link in the other one; earlier in this thread someone posted this link: http://www.glowingtubes.com/p/amplification.htm about halfway down that webpage are the T-100 links to pdf files for the manual and schematic....assuming they are still linked. If that doesn't work, have you considered going to Carvin and asking about this?
  10. Are you aware that you are asking a question to someone who last replied here 15 years ago?
  11. oh, to complete the advice: the nut should be secured against the fretboard. What is the 'space' width and what is the nut 'width' [not 'length' as we normally would refer to it]? It sounds to me that you have the wrong nut...
  12. Sorry, but lap steels can sound anyway they want, because as Freeman stated, they are electric guitars. I have used lap steels for blues, country and country swing.
  13. on the Carvin website at the bottom of the 'Technical Documents' page there is a PDF file called 'BrianD's Pictorial Guide to Biasing Tube Amps'. TBH, I have not looked at it, but it might be worth downloading before you start tinkering... I hope that you are aware of the potentially lethal voltages present in the capacitors [which should be properly discharged before performing ANY work on an amp].
  14. yes...of electric sheep...
  15. PhonoLube? I thought they stopped making that? but yes, a good lithium or teflon based grease should work perfectly well.
  16. life support...the plug could get pulled any minute...
  17. did you miss this one? https://reverb.com/item/35300305-1982-epiphone-spirit-ii-antique-burst-usa-made-quilted-top?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12293041912&utm_content=campaignid=12293041912_adgroupid=119218510284_productpartitionid=1171311173698=merchantid=107468989_productid=35300305_keyword=_device=c_adposition=_matchtype=_creative=497347850122&gclid=CjwKCAjw07qDBhBxEiwA6pPbHoJXR4__3WcA_K6o-HBR3Tvb8LgfPWHcF_-XJO8Iy3fs7bmeegyY5BoCockQAvD_BwE
  18. Re-soldering is never a bad idea if you have reason to suspect the connection.
  19. Well done! A positive outcome is always best! Do you think it was 'pot crud' or faulty soldering? Or a combination? Or do you care now that it is working?😉
  20. take a look at the contact point of the drive 'tire'...it is possible that after decades of service it has worn down, dried and shrunk, etc. To be honest, I have not worked on a unit probably as old as yours...good luck!
  21. If you have a VOM, it is simple to check the switch function and for shorts in the circuit. The switch is not going to last forever [typically the first part of a pedal to fail, being the most used part] so when I hear people complain, I point them to the switch first, as the likely culprit. Do let us know what you find...or don't find. Repairing pedals like TS8/9 is rarely something worth paying for. Mini units sell around US$80 new...less for used. Oh, and you did not answer my earlier query: how are you powering the pedal? Battery, isolated PS, standard wallwart...? Using a standard wall outlet or do you have a power conditioner in the line?
  22. certainly plausible, it just would not be my 'go to' solution before a careful examination of the device...
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