daddymack

well, then you should have been here 14 years ago when he was trying to get rid of it...

does look interesting, but without knowing how it sounds or plays...

this from the prince of the ridiculous response?

possibly a pandemic?

Don't bog down in 'analysis paralysis'...I would get my 'feet wet' with a basic Ditto...buy used, you can always resell it for the same price on reverb. Get experience, figure out what you really want to do with it...I still have my RC-30, but it is under utilized. Great features, most of which I determined didn't work for me...so I use a Ditto...which is where I should have started, but at the time, the Ditto wasn't available.

Je comprends assez bien le français... À chacun son bonheur. Le noir est ma couleur préférée, très chic et facile à accessoiriser.😉 Toutes mes guitares électriques sont noires, tout comme la plupart de mes acoustiques, ukulélés, lap aciers et violons. [le SG brun a été donné à un cousin, et a été remplacé par un D'Angelico 335] pour les photographies, copier-coller, aucune astuce nécessaire!

Top shape wise, with the Florentine cutaway, yeah, but the AK is a true hollowbody jazz box. Which is why it has the floating wood bridge....unlike our ES-135s which are semis with much thinner bodies.

The Boomerang is a nice unit, but took up way too much pedal board space for my rig...and they are pricey [now about $500?]. On the plus side, if you use MIDI, the sync function is perfect, as is the MIDI start/stop. I think of the 'Rang' as the Hummer of loopers and the Ditto as the HR-V.😉 As I mentioned, you need to have your timing spot on to effectively use a looper, especially if, like I was, you are using a drum machine, or pre-recorded tracks.

Happy NGD! Enjoy! a moment of steel wool application and that spot should be gone. Floating bridges are a PITA, but you can pin the base in place...I'm would not do exactly what this guy did, I would use something like a small roll pin rather than nails, and even he admits he should have taped the bridge down for the transfer of the holes...I would have drilled through just to mark the points, then removed the bridge, drilled, installed the pins and then put the bridge back...he spends way too much time fussing with those nails, IMHO

How in the hell do you think this is good news?

That seems like an awful lot of gear to haul, on top of what you'll need to actually perform. I do agree it will set you apart from the folks who don't have lighting, but I would try to us less and get more out of it....[I have a much smaller lighting set up than you, and even at that, I use about 1/3 of what I could, all to good effect.] I suggest you experiment with setting everything up, not just the lights, but the whole performance rig, and see how long it takes to put up/tear down, because that time cuts into your pay and your energy level. Then start removing, repositioning, 'working' the colors until you get the most out of the least. Do you bring your own backdrop? I won't comment on the color scheme, especially adding amber to the face, without knowing what your complexion is.

It would depend exactly what you intend to do with the looper. Pretty much any looper will allow you to layer loops, so the what else do you want it to do? I did a lot of research on them years ago when they were just getting traction, and I have both a Ditto and an RC-30. I rarely use the RC-30 now, although I bought it because it did so many things I thought I needed at the time, like storing tons of loops. I am considering selling both to finance an Aeros...but I likely will just keep the Ditto, as I find I'm using looping less and less in my solo act...hard to justify upgrading to the new state of the art when you don't use it... I would suggest get the Ditto or Ditto + [note: buy used] and learn the tricks, get the feel [your sense of timing is absolutely crucial with loopers] and then if you feel you need more features, put the Ditto on Reverb.com and 'upgrade' to a Ditto x2, x4, RC-30, Line 6 JM4 or Jam-man.

I'm going to guess that they can't get re-supplied from China where they likely get their parts.

I've replaced many reverb tanks...even Accutronics. They do die...

Newman, be careful...seriously...cutting slots in the mask renders it useless...people are dying from this, spending months in the hospital, having permanent lung damage...and please show me what doctors disagree with what Fauci, et al., have said. There is still much to be learned about Covfefe19, but you don't want to be a statistic...listen to the experts, they are overly cautious for a reason!

what...no google? I did try to explain this to you before...basically, follow the original wires... the hot [which will now be your black wire] will go to where your fuse is, which eventually goes to the power switch and the power transformer. The neutral [white] will go wherever the other wire went, sometimes right to the xformer, sometimes to the polarity switch...but not to the power switch! The green ground wire should be screwed to the chassis...here's a couple vids... I disagree with some of what you will see, like not tinning the wires before soldering them to a terminal...but what you need to know is there in both. I also will replace the wire leads carrying AC current to the xfrmr with the appropriate color so If someone else works on it, they'll know which is which. You'll see the Fender replacement he ties a yellow to a black...had it been my gig, they would have been white...and all the hot leads would be black. I've done this [mainly for other people] plenty of times, so I really don't even think about it...once you've done a few, you'll get to that point.

thank you, sir!

Agreed...a competent guitarist can make a cheap guitar sound like a good guitar through their skill in overcoming the deficiencies of the instrument. Give an incompetent player a $5000 Les Paul and a boutique amp, and they will still sound incompetent. We have a saying...'tone is in the fingers', and it is true.

Kaibigan, this is also why you should wipe down your guitar when you are done: the sweat, with the salt, potassium, ammonia, urea, etc. left to 'work' on the metal parts, including the strings, p-u covers, bridge and tuners. Not to mention the 'creeping crud ' on the neck, which is primarily sweat and dead skin.

perfectly...carry on...😎

looks like old thread on connectors...is that the same Bogen? What are the wires like in the back? I would just replace them with 1/4" panel jacks and move on.

you're 11 years late asking that...and the good doctor hasn't been by here in over 5 years.

CHINA? Are you kidding...? The Chinese have been lying about virtually every aspect of Covfefe19...taking data from them is like believing Trump when he says 'trust me...' Got a more reliable source to back your 'facts' than a simple 'Google response...that likely engendered 30 pages? When you make a statement and claim it as 'fact', you need to be able to back it up solidly with named sources. Your unattributed source quoting Chinese information does not pass muster, sorry. This is, to many of us, a life and death issue as attested to within the thread, so we need to be serious here, not flippant, or quasi-informed. And, sadly, this is what happens to threads...they can get hijacked...sven hijacked it and paid the ultimate price...

Where did you get the impression this virus wasn't airborne? Are we on different planets? This isn't AIDS or HIV. If the virus was not airborne, why would we need masks? It is an aerosol contagion...do you understand AT ALL what that means? ggm, I realize you think you are somehow immune and all that, but honestly, I don't know where you get your info from, but I would suggest you expand your information sources IMMENSELY, because you are terribly misinformed. Please do not continue passing on erroneous information on what is a well known and deadly contagion in these forums.

and that got you banned permanently...so I hope you enjoyed it while it lasted.