daddymack

you might want to get a read on the input voltage on that tube socket. It might be over spec, just enough to blow an older tube. Agreed that powering up a tube amp absent the tubes is a potential death sentence for the filter caps...interesting that in standby the Sunn doesn't light them up. Also powering up without a load on the OT can be bad for the amp as well. I have not worked on a Sunn tube amp, but when you described the mod you had done, and the fuse blowing repeatedly, my first inclination was fried diode...

The binding looks pretty pitted in those pix...is that from the sanding or long term 'abuse' [poor storage/exposure]? You might try a mild bleaching agent [like peroxide] on that stained binding to lower the contrast....depending how deep it goes...it won't totally 'whiten-up', but it could lighten it..stain bleed into binding is common error made by novice refinishers. I know, I've done it. Which is why I have a couple of guys on the hook for the paint/stain/sealing for my repair/mod work [oh, I have a spraygun and can mock up a 'spray booth' in an hour, but it is a headache I can do without ] No decision on tuners yet? You have some great options, since the headstock is not pre-drilled. You could also forego the typical 6-in-line and go 4-2, like Music Man, just to be a little different. Are you painting the headstock to match the body color? Funny, I never noticed how 'flat' the bottom of a Coronado is until I looked closely at your pic.

b-b-b-but the booster will have the Bill Gates new and improved microchip! The same one they put in the Ivermectin ...

example please?

well, I'm glad the SophistiCats >^. .^< >^. .^< will be performing again...but please be very cautious! The last thing I would want to hear is that you or Leilani got sick [I know you are both vaxed, but that is not 100%, and you are admittedly in a Covid hotzone].

clearer photos of individual pedals [so the nomenclature is legible] would be very helpful! Have you tried the pedals out? I mean, that would be the first thing I would do....Also opening them up sometimes reveals information, like MFR date, serial numbers, etc. The 'backtalker'...might be similar to the reverse delay Danelectro Backtalk Pedal The Burford Sitar is likely similar to the EHX Ravish Sitar or the Danelectro Sitar Swamp pedal. The Dirty Little Secret is a classic Catalinbread OD pedal, but the case you have is not a standard case. The control config does look like it could be a 'MKI/V1' rehoused. Shapeshifter is the name of a tremolo pedal by Seymour Duncan, and also intellijel/Cyclonix used that name for its VCO modulation pedal, neither of which are the pedal you have, so These are very possibly either clones made by 'one-off' builders, repackaging of other pedals or pure custom models.

I'm assuming you bought the amp used, right, since they only made the 100W AxSys 212 in '96-97. So think about the fact that these typically sell used for about $300 [oh sure, there are some who ask ridiciulous amounts, but they are all over the web at 3-350]. Think about he fact that Line 6 stopped making them after 2 years. Think about the fact that it was about a generation ago [a quarter century] when the amp was designed and built. Time for a new amp. Fixing these older solid state modeling amps is an involved process and rarely worth the expense. Cut the head out and keep the 2x12 cab and get a used Quilter head... Or save up for a Kemper...

it could be rare...

okay, still does the cut out straight into the amp...so ....what is the amp? Tube or solid state? Do you have another amp...and another electric guitar? Do you have a volt/ohm meter? have you ever cleaned the pots? Do you know what the value of the bleed capacitor is?

Ted Vesely was a well known session/big band horn player [trombone?]...Fred Waring, that kind of thing. IIRC he owned a music store in Las Vegas way back, maybe 70s/80s? So I would guess he had these guitars imported from Brazil with those cheap labels glued in them to sell at his store....

this happens playing straight into what amplifier?

A little more info please, let's start with what kind of pickups? Active or inactive?

good find...pricey [although much cheaper than originals!], but correct...

that was ten years ago...he hasn't even been around here since 2014...sorry.

I suggest you become a PITA to Fed Ex. Call, email or what ever you have to do every day until they do something. Go sit in front of one of their centers with a sign saying they lost your guitar and won't tell you what happened to it or why they lost it? Call your local TV and radio station, they love this David vs Goliath stuff. Years ago, a guy named Dave Carroll wrote a song and did a video that went viral about his guitar being destroyed in transit...

The original p-ups were those 'black top' single coils, right? Good luck... I think you are going to be looking for a while. Not many surface mount pickups come in under 5/8"/16mm/.625. ...maybe minihums would fit?

As I said "their high-end mixers, which are actually quite good", right? They may have the best 'chip' in the world, but put it in a cheap housing with crap connectors, ghastly switches*, and so on... *those 3 points are the ones I've been asked, over several years, if it is worth fixing, I ask what they could replace it for... and basically, I tell them just get a new one, or really a better one, or do it themselves..

Happy free used solid state Canadian/Chinese stereo amplifier day! Traynor has a history of copying Fender circuit designs going way back to the 60s, so I would guess they dissected the Fender Princeton Chorus amp to create that one. My first actual bass amp was a Traynor, but a real Canadian tube amp, with a Yorkville speaker. For years, my motto was 'Friends don't let friends use Behringer.' Then they slapped the 'B' word on their high-end mixers, which are actually quite good, and a number of venues I have played around SoCal use them. I have since amended the motto to 'Friends don't let friends use cheap Behringer pedals or Bugera* amps.'😉 *several years ago, an acquaintance brought me a 5W Bugera with a mystery problem. The warranty had expired a few months before. After examining the amp, I was appalled at the terrible workmanship: wires hot melted to the chassis, untrimmed solder leads, exposed/uninsulated AC wires...I eventually came to the conclusion that the Output Transformer had an internal short. How? I don't know...but an OEM OT was not available, and I was unable to match an equivalent.

I have no issues with Quilter...I own one, an Aviator head, and yes, it is older but its the first SS amp I ever felt was gig-able for the way I typically play [straight in]...but trying to multiply your budget 10x, IMHO, isn't helping talk is cheap...most of those amps...not so much

I hope you are happy with the LT. Suggesting that you buy a two thousand dollar+ amp for a one-off gig... Not everyone wants nor has the money to buy 'champagne' gear...this is a perfect example. Some of us are here to try to help and present viable options, some just post to show off...

those are the Boss junk...I'm talking about Rolnd junk...😉 Which was why I suggested the Cubes, inexpensive, decent [not great] sounding, but the line out will sound better if the sound guy at least knows how to EQ in my [ancient warped] mind, it checked all the boxes Gardo was after...sure, I could name plenty of other, far more expensive amps, but why?

mikeo, why don't you by him the second one? I still think the Cube is a great option, like the 30, the 60 or the street...used Cubes go fairly inexpensively...check reverb.com (ordinarily I would posy you a link, but I'm on a ship heading to Alaska, and the wifi is brutally slow... )

The other thing to consider is the flat ceilings in most rooms. They tend to worsen the Vertical Standing Wave Ratio [VSWR], so consider treating the ceiling as well as the walls. A former bandmate tried the packing blankets approach, and it was marginally successful for rehearsal, but terrible for recording.

This is where to start... 😎

I finally traded my Kokko compressor....as a one trick pony, it did what the original MXR Dynacomp did best: fatten up sustained notes. But we have come to expect more 'squish', nearly 50 years later...😎 I replaced it with a Malekko. More, I dunno, 'width'[?] for lack of a better term...and not 'in your face' compression, nicely evened out across the tonal spectrum of chords, but solidly behind single notes...'focus' maybe[?] I pulled that pedal board out a few weeks ago, have not plugged it in, but it looks good