daddymack

should be fine if you do it right

yeah, that speaker will take what you are throwing it., but with the DSL, running at 50W would be better [IMHO...that speaker is over 30 years old, and we do not know how it was stored]]. Also, as there is no crossover in the cab, you should disconnect the tweeter...again, IMHO. The two connectors are for 'daisy chaining' speakers together. Just plug into the upper one. Use an unshielded cable from the amp to the cab. If you wanted to use both, you could daisy chain them, which would get you to 8 ohms load, and use the 8 ohm output on the amp.

we are here for you! lol @ 'potato chip'..... you are welcome to 'blog'....ain't much else going on here...I have my own 'blog' thread in 'Cool Jam'

nice...I have generally been impressed with build quality of the few Aria Pro II guitars I have worked on...mainly the single cut 2 hb 'lesterish' models...typically swapping in better p-ups. oh...and i fixed the thread title...'arai' is the filipino equivalent of 'ouch'

try 250k...in many instances they are better for single coils.

so...no Bigsby, eh?

without a circuit diagram...? Yes, likely bias...can you trace it back to the power tubes?

Knobs...? I will suggest you put a mounting plate for the jack [old dry wood] and open the aperture a bit. I have had to do this several times for [my and other people's] hollow/semi-hollow guitars/basses. In the long run, it solves potential repair issues...like if the side wall 'caves', which I have seen happen...on older Harmony, Gibson, Gretsch, Silvertone...[it was the first mod I did to my 'hollow beast'].

quick answer: there are no stupid questions...but you are wise to ask; here are some simple answers... 1) you have to consider impedance as well...ohms matter! Putting the wrong 'load' on the amp can damage it! 2) the number of speakers doesn't matter except for combined power handling and impedance [see 1, 3 & 4] 3) you do not need your speakers to be at 2X wattage...1.1X is adequate...1.2X is common 4) the cabinet wiring matters if there are multiple speakers...series vs parallel... 5) yes, running at half power is half power... You should learn these basics [wattage, impedance, series vs parallel] about amps/cabs before you jump in head first....and fry something...

are you using the 61 key or 76? This would be an interesting, although, at over 4 grand, expensive, solution for keyboard solo acts.

to answer the question [as bp already did]. yes...but jacks, in and of themselves, rarely go 'bad'...make certain the jack is making contact to the TS/TRS plug, and proper contact to the circuit board before you go tearing everything apart.

I had a partial spool a few years ago some one gave me...Mogami stuff is technically superior...once you know where the 'magic' is, no problemo....but until you do figure it out...oy vey! "This Mogami cable is designed to prevent microphonics with a conductive carbon impregnated polymer sub-shield placed under the shield conductor. If you want the best cable to go from your instrument to your rig, then this is it. Note: The carbon impregnated polymer subshield should be removed prior to soldering on connectors. Otherwise there is a potential for signal degradation." https://www.tubedepot.com/products/mogami-w2524-instrument-cable Y'know, the internet is a mahvelous thing....

saw that as well, but they look like they are already installed in the finished headstock shot...which, as noted, turned out looking cool!

did you test the cable?

my preference is which will sound better...yours?

what potentiometer value?

your bass amp is probably capable of feeding back your acoustic, but set for less treble, the less likely...there's the EQ factor... Hollow bodies/acoustics are prone to feedback because the vibrations propagate in the chamber, vibrating the strings again.

Fernandes serial numbers are undecipherable. Model name/number and accurate, detailed pics are better indicators. Does the age of the instrument really matter? You bought it not knowing....IIRC there is a FB Fernandes group....they may [or may not] be helpful....

value? Regardless of condition, not much. You will be lucky to recoup the $100.

Well...I wasn't going to get his hopes up...even in my first reply. Always better to tell it like it is. Of course, he has not been back since he posted....so... And to be fair, the guitar may play like butter...who knows? Maybe his grandfather had work/mods done to it...one nevuh know, do one? Original Deans [the real Zelinsky era] are fabulous instruments, and I have read some positive things about his new bolt-on T and S style guitars with the 'z-glide' [or whatever they call the patterning on the back of the] neck. Have not tried one, though.

it is probably 'lespaul67'...😉

After looking more closely at the pics, this is a Dean EVO, of which there are several versions...none of them highly valuable, even with a set neck and a flame top, and they were made in this millennium. I actually purchased one as a 'prop' for a tradeshow about 15 years ago, for under $100. The 'high end' versions sell for ~$400....sorry, Brew7, but this was most likely your grandpa's 'beater'.

the CE sticker on the back of the head stock is the giveaway....Korean, definitely post-1985. If you have time and are truly curious as to the origin of that guitar, try here ... but there is little in the way of good news.

just came across the Valco KGB fuzz pedal...they say the 'K' is for keyboards...might get you there...