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Everything posted by daddymack

  1. or change it to 'Stymulous' or something...
  2. As long as he likes the guitar and is playing it, that is all that matters! Too often we hear about folks who are 'recommended' a guitar who know nothing about guitars, and the instrument is unplayable...cheese slicer action, bowed or twisted necks...and they do not know how to get it fixed, so it goes under the bed, into the attic/basement/closet/tool shed, and never seen again...and the owner is totally turned off to learning guitar because it was too hard...
  3. and now look at that jaundice!
  4. Likely the associate at GC was incorrect...but the reality is you need to use it the way it works best for you, not how someone else uses it! Spend time with it, try it on different fingers, find what you like and do it your way.
  5. late to the party, Daniel...search google for: stimulus rock band...
  6. To you, apparently nothing, but to him, he made a point to specify it. The guitar he asked about retails at ~$350...and you go in with PRS and Gretsch? He's looking for a new toy... Some folks, myself included, approach guitars [and other gear] today as a 'bang for the buck' deal rather than slavishly buying top brand names expecting better quality. I own plenty of Gibson, Fender, Guild, Martin...but I also have Epiphone, Carlo Robelli, Applause, Memphis [an antique], Danelectro... You don't have to spend more than $500 to get a guitar that will make you happy. I almost spit out my coffee when you mentioned buying a $500 Electromatic Jet, and then putting in a $300 pair of TV Jones...
  7. well, nothing is ever as simple as it appears on its face, right? As you observed, no one here has any experience with that particular Ibanez LP copy...hard to believe, but there it is. My educated guess, after looking at some data and pics and reviews, based on my knowledge of Ibanez' other setneck guitars is that it is probably as good as or better than many other copies... But there are so many out there, and the quality levels, in that price range [~$350] is getting so much better...that said, having 'Ibanez' on the headstock would be 'reassuring'...
  8. Mikeo, did you notice he didn't want to pay Epiphone prices? Apparently not... Okay, FUBTAG, have you looked at Reverb.com? Agiles are showing up used, among others... Does the guitar have to be new? Have a look at Guitar Fetish, they have LP style axes at lower range pricing... Firefly, Grote and a zillion other labels on LP style guitars these days
  9. Nonsense. Even side by side doing an A/B test you would not be able to really tell, especially within a few feet, pare...for a number of reasons.
  10. Welcome to Harmony Central...okay, now, take a deep breath, and let's start over, shall we? What exactly are you trying to find out? Are the pick-ups any good? Are the basses any good?
  11. Third...the $300 was in 2005...so now it would be more like a $400 guitar, and honestly, I see some very interesting guitars lately in that price range, made in Asia, but point being [and I tried to run a guitar import company once] they are so much better at it now than they were 15 years ago. They still aren't good at factory setups*, but the quality and the appearance of the instruments gets better every year. Are they making the equivalent to a Martin, Gibson, Taylor, Guild? No, not yet...yet...give them time, they will get there. It took the Japanese twenty years[ and the Marshall Plan] to beat us with our own tools** in manufacturing...radios, televisions, cars, VCRs, flatscreen TV, and so on...now they move their production methods off-shore [like we tried], and beget the South Korean behemoth, revitalized China, woke up Indonesia, and sparked Viet Nam... *when we had our company, I was doing the setups here, because the factory just did not grasp the concept, and I couldn't go over to Shenzen for two weeks to teach them why certain things about a guitar are important; they are communists, not guitarists, after all. They have been told all their lives to do what they are shown, and do it well, and they will be taken care of...plus, they were making 'generics' for re-labeling, but they had just embarked on a production deal for a major American guitar company, which was the main reason I had my partner approach that particular factory. ** Henry Ford wrote the book, Toyota swallowed it, crapped it out, and re-wrote it, updated it by 50 years...still a best seller in the manufacturing realm...no one even mentions Ford, and it really was his methodology...one his own company let go.
  12. passed...but that was over ten years ago...Ace has moved on... how old is your mouse? what do you mean by 'fallen'?
  13. well, that was interesting...I never knew Aria even made resonators...apparently they were not marketed in the US. I found this...So if it is in immaculate condition*, it might be worth ~€550 which is about $600... Aria has had a fairly shaky history as far as serial numbers, but usually [NOT always...] the first 2 digits of the S/N are the year of manufacture... *the thing with bell brass resonator guitars is they do not 'age', like wooden guitars, and will sound the same 100 years from now...so when considering the value, it is all about the condition of the metal, the finish...and the neck, which is wood, but has pretty much zero influence on the sound of a metal body reso...
  14. Actually, Moderators, like myself, Isaac, Davie, etc., do this altruistically [okay, for free, voluntarily]. Admins [like wonderful Phil and Dendy] are remunerated, but they do more 'stuff'... Although I do agree that getting out and trying guitars is the best way to find one, in these bizarre times, that is not an option. A quick look at that list made me chuckle. D_I, you say 'getting back into' it, so I will take it you already have some experience, and are not a 'beginner', but are looking for an inexpensive steel string guitar, yes? I would stay way from the Fender acoustics, personally, never played one that sounded good to me. The Yamaha on the list is a great choice, but there are other Yamaha guitars in the same price range, and I've never played a bad Yamaha [mediocre, maybe, but not 'bad']. The Epiphone line does have some decent models in the 'sub $300' category, as does Luna, Ibanez, Gretsch [the 'Jim Dandy', not a great guitar, but worth $170...ask Phil!] and a few other manufacturers missing from the list. Are you only interested in 'new'? If not, when you narrow your list, go on Reverb.com and look, there are new and used guitars there...
  15. And just how are you measuring this 'output'?
  16. well, okay, if you are not good at it, practice... I suggest you invest in a good quality, thermal controlled soldering station, at least 35-40 watts, they are not 'cheap' [$50 and up], but they are worth it if you plan on doing a lot of soldering...also invest in a 'solder sucker'[~$10]...trust me, you will need it while you hone your skills. And solder is not lead anymore, now it is silver based and pricey [I have a stockpile of lead solder] I was a NASA-certified Soldering Specialist when I was 20...I have an ancient Weller that my company 'retired' in 1982, and I salvaged it and parts from about half a dozen identical units, and built mine with the least worn parts...I recently used it to re-wire our entire two-story, 5 room, two Iso-chambers, 32-track recording studio, still cookin'
  17. get CTS 250K ohm pots [seriously, the cost difference isn't that much, and it is worth it]...but make sure you know and like the taper of the pots you order. Most guitars use audio taper for volume, which have a volume 'hump' [nothing, nothing something oh, oh my, wow, whoah,], as opposed to a linear taper which will increase volume based on the 'dial' on the knob. Linears are more commonly used for tone pots. But there are no rules. Same with bleed caps, different people hear things differently., and cap selection is an entirely separate 'art'. Shielding is another piece of the puzzle...how much is enough? What's the minimum I could do and not get RF interference? What is the best shielding material? [OFHC Copper tape according to a number of sources, but that stuff is XPENSIV] Three-way or five-way switch? Most modern versions of Strats use the 5 position version, and the typical wiring is 1-bridge, 2-bridge+mid,3-mid, 4-mid+neck, 5 neck, but there is nothing that says you have to do it that way. I've done some very 'odd' wirings requested by clients over the years. Is one of the p-ups 'reverse wound'? that would give you hum cancellation when used in combination, so there are a myriad of possibilities. There are many[and I mean MANY] available wiring diagrams for strat-style wiring, a quick search will get you pages of sites. all these can be found discussed and demo'd [ad nauseum] on youtube, btw... You are about to embark on a journey that could seem [and likely will be ] like a rabbit hole of should I...? Wait, what If...? How about...?
  18. Okay, can we please clarify your original statement? What exactly do you mean by 'twice as loud' going through the Laney? Do you mean you have to set the pedal at double the level to get the same volume? If that is your situation, it is what it is...so in a word: yes... Okay, a very basic explanation [that will not satisfy the engineers here]: with a tube amp, the pedal is hitting the pre-amp tubes with a hotter and somewhat distorted signal; the tubes amplify [add gain] to the signal and there is some added 'harmonic distortion' and 'overtones' which the human ear may perceive as volume...then the power tubes take that hotter/distorted signal and amplifies it, and at higher levels can add additional harmonic distortion to the signal as well. With a SS amp the preamp section transistors typically add nothing but clean 'gain' to the signal, and the power section of the amp adds nothing but clean gain again...so whatever distortion the pedal generated, that is the distortion you will get, with no [or let's say minimal] enhancements from the amp. And that is likely why you have to push the pedal twice as 'hard' to get close to the level of 'perceived volume'. A few things we would like to be clear on: How did you determine what the equal volume levels of the two amps were, where in the signal chain was the pedal, were there other pedals in the signal chain or in the FX loop, battery power or ac/dc converter powered...? Did you ever get that dB meter app for your phone like I suggested? That would be the accurate way to measure the volume/SPL from the amp. Of course, your history here with flaky gear and odd questions makes me curious, kaibigan, as to how you set up this comparison [and I saw that the ever astute 'Mr. Hack' was curious as well], because in order to get any kind of valid data, one needs to have set baselines and accurate measuring tools, neither of which you have reported.
  19. good enough for a Mexican Fender...so it should sound a lot better than the original SX p-ups. But, it is going to sound pretty close to your Stratocaster, which you were trying to avoid. However, if you want to wheel and deal, get that and sell the bridge p-up and replace it with something with more bite.
  20. ah, well, now that does put a limit on things...however, if you look at places like GFS, some of their single coils [not the over-wound hot ones] are very good and inexpensive...of course, you have to pay for shipping...but this could be a viable option...
  21. a loaded question...Kent Armstrongs are fine, not a problem, but if you really want to optimize the sounds, you would be better off mixing and matching, like a DiMarzio SDS, and Seymour Duncan JB, a Bill Lawrence Blade...the list goes on and on...there is no one right combination, and these p-ups I mentioned are certainly not the only choices, just the more typical. Plus, there are no rules, so depending on the body rout, you could put full sized humbuckers, P90s, minibuckers, Filter-trons, etc...somewhere someone has done all these things before...😎
  22. yep...and that. my friend, is the 'square one'...
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