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daddymack

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Everything posted by daddymack

  1. looks excellent...how does it sound?
  2. sand it down, to where you can really examine the status of the wood...you may be able to inject wood glue into the crack and clamp it, then refinish it. That one spot that looks dark gray, I'm not sure what that is...
  3. April's half gone, I would double check that gig...
  4. Quilter makes great stuff...they are part of QSC, after all...I have an older Aviator head [200w, 2 ch], the only solid state guitar amp I would consider gigging with...and I have. It took me a long time to even buy one, but I was pleasantly surprised. I have tried several of the newer models and they have built a great line of amps, including the 'pedalboard' amps.
  5. I would not have ventured that definitive a reply based on those pix...but I think we are both on the same track here...
  6. sadly, the bean counters, agents and club operators 'own the biz', so keeping them satisfied is an unfortunate reality...
  7. If you are not comfortable with the lack of provenance, don't buy it, very simple. There are pages of RG470s on Reverb.com, most under $400... counterfeiting a $400 street price axe that is almost 30 years old seems like a serious waste of time, so I'm guessing it was a body swap or refinish\home custom job...but what would really matter, considering this is not a 'collector' instrument, would be how it plays.
  8. Specifically what is your concern? That the body isn't original of has been refinished? Brand new this is a $400 guitar...used, ~$250-300...how bad could it be unless you are paying too much?
  9. likely the 'Swiss cheese' weight relief..is that a Standard, Custom, Classic? The 9 hole weight relief started around 1982, IIRC, and was still used on most models up until 2007, when they went 'hog' wild... Early weight relief holes are on the upper side of the lower bout, behind and above the bridge, so I think if you 'tap' that area, you should notice a different sound than elsewhere on the guitar. Around 2007 they went to the 'extreme' chambering...lowering the weight to an amazing 8.5 lbs or less [Les?]
  10. daddymack

    NBD

    HNBD...at least you will have plenty of time to get it broken in...😎
  11. better vibration transfer due to seating the bridge more firmly...'several wood screws' always would be the last resort...re-gluing the bridge should have worked...
  12. in just under the 13 year time limit...welcome to HC
  13. I'd use an F# in the 3rd position...I'm approaching the 'G#mi' as more like a B6, tonally, as far as where the harp would ride, but there are other keys and other positions that would work well against the mode... IIRC, the original version of the song is not tuned to A440 [song is played as A minor, but is actually sharp, almost Bb, but right around that 'fifty cent' line...]; for the live versions they were probably tuned to A440. That 'out of tune'-ness gives the harp that special graininess, for lack of a better term...
  14. this calls for a detailed restoration thread!😎
  15. the bowl back is problematic...it is a love/hate thing. They are comfortable to play standing up, but I find sitting down awkward. I have an Applause fretless short scale bass, and I actually like the sound acoustically and plugged in [it has an internal microphone, not piezo, no pre-amp, no battery], but I've found on most of the guitar models [and I've tried quite a few since the first one I played in 1972] that the tone was too 'trebly' [compared to most wooden acoustics]...once, on a repair/re-nut, just out of curiosity, I stuck a hand towel inside the upper bout [lower side] and it actually helped tame the treble....acoustically, but made almost no difference plugged in. * I have another 'plastic backed' acoustic, the Fender Stratocoustic, and it sux acoustically and plugged in...but when I use a TC Body Rez pedal with it, suddenly, it sounds like a real guitar...YMMV. This guitar was bought used, dirt cheap, and I use it in my back yard while I'm barbecuing, it is light and has great action...and handles cold and wet weather well. The 'perfect' campfire guitar... *I would be interested in trying one with a Body Rez pedal...
  16. Hey, when I'm wrong, I admit it! And I apologize! Fortunately, it doesn't happen often...😉
  17. looking at the 'exploded' assembly /BOM sheet by golly that spring clip is OEM, my apologies to Phil!! This also has the OEM part numbers for the parts you need!
  18. to be fair, I did not always adhere to that way of thinking until I was in a band that was actually good enough to work the top notch places...then I realized what held back the other bands I was in, and some of that was me, partying when I should have been working.
  19. That is my approach...I'm being paid to do a job, and to do it the best way I can, which is with all my faculties functioning...not slammed and sloppy...
  20. to be fair, I have not pulled one of those bridges, but there is that wacky bolt I mentioned. I'm sorry Phil, though, that is likely not OEM....looks like a paper clip! The pickups, I'm glad I remembered that about that beast...glad you got her opened up! They are interesting guitars; IIRC the p-ups are clear and punchy, but not very loud. I don't recall what they read out as when I tested them, but it was lower than I expected. Those pots likely need a good cleaning, too, btw....
  21. as to the mini-hums, I have one in the neck position on my Epi AlleyKat, and I prefer it to the 57 in the bridge...warmer, smoother, yet still has some bite in it...
  22. Oh, and I forgot, you will possibly have to remove, or at least raise the p-ups... I can't remember exactly...been a while...
  23. found a manual pic... look at #14 [points to the plastic cover], and #16 refers to the neck joint
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