Phil O'Keefe

I honestly don't know. There's a bunch of Fiesta Red ones on Reverb right now, and only one in Sonic Blue - there are none of the Lake Placid Blue ones on there at the moment, but whether that's because they're rare(r) or because people want to hang on to them since that is the color of the guitar Kurt Cobain used on Smells Like Teen Spirit, I honestly don't know.

You should really re-post this in the HC Classifieds section - first of all, because we ask that people not spam the discussion forums and secondly, because you'll have a lot better chance of people seeing it, since the classifieds are where they go when they're looking for gear, not the discussion forums. Here's the link to the Amps classifieds section for you: https://www.harmonycentral.com/forums/forum/52-amps/ Welcome to Harmony Central!

As I understand it, that’s correct.

"Hillbilly Highway" - Steve Earle

It's here... but don't expect new hardware for the actual MIDI interface or anything - this is really more about evolution of the spec, not a complete redo of everything, and best of all, it's all designed to remain compatible with previous MIDI devices, although of course they might not be able to do everything that more modern MIDI 2.0 compliant products can do. What kinds of things CAN you do with MIDI 2.0? Take a look at this page for some ideas... https://www.midi.org/articles-old/details-about-midi-2-0-midi-ci-profiles-and-property-exchange

And thank you for keeping an eye open for spammers and letting us know about any that you see, and any concerns you have. We really do appreciate it!

Here's the info from the Dimarzio website regarding their color codes... HOW DO I CONNECT A 4-CONDUCTOR PICKUP? For normal series-humbucking wiring, solder the black and white wires to each other and insulate that connection with tape. The red wire is the hot output and the green and bare wires go to ground, usually by soldering them to the back of a pot. If the pickup sounds "out-of-phase" when played with other pickups, use the green as hot and connect the red and bare to ground. 4 Conductor Wiring For further instructions, please see our Wiring Diagrams page. The red words are links with lots of useful information. With that, plus the various diagrams on the Seymour Duncan site, you can probably get it figured out, but if you have concerns or questions, don't hesitate to ask.

Possibly... but we're watching. When in doubt, I tend to give people the benefit of the doubt when I'm deciding which new sign-ups to the site to approve, because I don't want to accidentally keep legit posters / new members off. OTOH, that means that occasionally a spammer is going to get through. Still, since switching over to manual approval for all new members, the amount of spam has decreased significantly...

First of all, welcome to Harmony Central. Please don't post for-sale posts in the discussion forums. However, you're encouraged to use our HC Classifieds for anything you want to list for sale. Also, I edited your post to removed your email address. It's not a good idea to post that to a public forum. Better to have them contact you via our private message system - from there, you can share your email with them without posting it for every spam bot on the net to see. Finally, I wouldn't get my hopes up too high for a reply - this is a very old thread.

Hey everyone, be sure to check out this excellent review by Brian Johnston of the BluGuitar AMP1 Iridium - a 100W multi-channel amp (preamp and power amp) in pedal form. Here's a link to the review... If you have any questions or comments about the AMP1, please feel free to post them here.

While there are a few dedicated for sale / trade threads in some of the forums, your best bet is the HC classifieds. Please feel free to post your WTB and FS posts there - but we do ask that you keep all for sale / want to buy posts out of the general discussion forums - again with the exception of the few forums where there are dedicated FS / FT / WTB threads on the site. If you have any questions on our policies, please don't hesitate to ask - either here, or via PM. :wave:

That's what is known as a logical fallacy. One does not automatically equate with the other; the first statement does not make the second one true. But you're right - at least in my case. I do NOT know the answer to the specific question erok asked ("which tuners will fit his specific Epi Les Paul Special P90 without drilling the headstock"), and apparently, neither did anyone else. Part of the reason for that (at least in my case) is that I don't own one of those guitars, and have no way to measure it myself, but from personal experience I can tell you that most high-quality aftermarket tuners are not going to fit without modifying the guitar. Pardon me for saying so, but where you take a wrong turn is in assuming no one here offered any useful information, although unless you know some of the people offering erok suggestions here (and erok certainly does), you might fairly assume otherwise. In the very first reply to the thread, Freeman Keller asked a reasonable and important question - do you really want to spend $40 or $50 (or potentially more, if you have someone else install the tuners) on a guitar that you paid $119 for? Then he tells erok exactly what he needs to do if he still feels it's worth the price, and exactly how to find tuners that will fit his guitar without modifying it - if in fact there are any higher-quality aftermarket tuners that will, which personally, I am skeptical of. Yes, you have to measure - the reason for that is because Epiphone has used a variety of different tuners over the years, and some have different shaft diameters. The ONLY way to be sure is to have measured and replaced the tuners on that specific Epiphone model previously, and therefore know the exact tuner shaft diameter used on that model, or to take one off and measure it - which is what a good guitar tech / luthier is going to do anyway, just to be sure they're going to get the right sized replacement. And for your information, Freeman is a VERY good luthier, who not only repairs and modifies guitars regularly, but also hand-builds some exceptionally beautiful ones - again, this is all information that erok is aware of, and like most of us here, when Freeman speaks on the subject of guitar builds, repairs and upgrades, he's probably going to give serious consideration to his opinions. But others brought up reasonable points too - one of which is that tuning stability can be impacted by other things besides the quality of the tuning machines themselves. It's a lot easier to apply some graphite from a pencil or a bit of PTFE to the nut slots than it is to replace a set of tuners, and it just might improve the tuning stability without having to resort to replacing the tuning machines. Why NOT try the easiest, least expensive option first and see if it fixes things? Why do you think erok wants to replace his tuners? It MIGHT be because he likes the looks of some aftermarket tuning machines, but since he isn't asking whether or not a specific brand / model of tuners will fit on his guitar, it's reasonable to assume that's probably not the case. More likely, and I admit that this is an assumption, he wants to improve the tuning stability of the guitar. And the fact is, tuners are not the only thing that might negatively impact that. This is a DISCUSSION forum. People offer their opinions and suggestions. Not all of them are always going to be good or accurate, but again, it's a discussion forum, so when people have other suggestions, or see information that they disagree with, they're free to offer corrections or alternative points of view. As always, it's up to the person asking questions (as well as each individual reader) to make their own determinations regarding the accuracy or wisdom of each individual post. One of the best ways to make that determination is to know the people you're getting the advice from, and their history, experience, and skills. Again, that's where Freeman's background comes in - a background that you're probably not familiar with unless you've been reading these forums for a while. Erok received great advice in the very first reply of the thread, and everyone else pitched in from their experiences and POV and offered other things that are relevant to the thread topic for him to consider / try, and I see no problem with the way this thread went down. By the way, welcome to Harmony Central! Thanks for giving your opinions, and for your feedback.

If you want a single unit with eight inputs, you might want to look at the similarly-priced Nady MM-242. It has eight inputs and two outputs in a 4x2 configuration. You'd still need two channels on your current mixer to plug it into, but it would handle all 8 outputs from the PreSonus in a single unit. https://www.amazon.com/Nady-MM-242-Stereo-Channel-outputs/dp/B07215MFNY

Two things - first, a correction: the Behringer 4x1 line mixer isn't a passive mixer like the old DOD I was thinking of - while it looks similar, it uses an opamp, and it's active, so levels shouldn't be a problem. If you use two of those 4x1 units, you could sum all 8 channels from the PreSonus and run them into only two mixer channels, leaving you with two unused channels on your main mixer. Or, you could run two channels from the PreSonus straight to your current mixer, and sum the other six channels using two of the Behringer units (three channels to one, the other three channels to the second one), and send them to the last two remaining inputs on your main mixer. Either way, any summed channels would need to have their relative levels adjusted with the Behringer's level controls, since you won't have individual control over them at your main mixer. The only way to get that is to get a bigger main mixer, with more input channels.

I don't own one, and I've never used or reviewed one, so take this FWIW... but I did look at the PreSonus product page for the D8, read all of that, as well as a couple of reviews, and it doesn't appear that there's any kind of onboard summing for the analog outputs on that unit - each output is hardwired to each input / mic preamp, and there's no way to sum outputs internally on the D8. So that means you'd need to do it externally. A simple submixer, or even a a pair of cheap passive (resistance) mixers (Behringer still makes one) would do the trick, assuming the output levels from the D8 are reasonably hot enough. The only other option I can think of is to get a larger mixer with more inputs.