daddymack

Better in what sense?

Le 'nom de plume' 'harmuser', en Anglais, c'est 'harm user', ce n'est-pas bon, comprendez-vous? FYI, posting links on your first post here is rarely going to get you any results...and with that user name? We are pretty 'gun shy' about that after decades of spam, porn and malware. Is it possible for you to post the actual images, rather than links?

Sent

£300 is roughly $355 if my converter is correct. Give or take a quarter. Sounds like a lot of guitar for a very reasonable price.

Pics would help....TBH I don't think I have ever seen one. But from old threads here, I learned a little... The Crafter brand has been around a while, and there are some inexpensive models, and some over $1000 models out there. The originals were made in Korea for the Korean market [back in the early 1970s IIRC]. There is a USA distribution group for Crafter, I believe it is EMD in TN [seems I recall them announcing this a year or so ago...]. The TD06N is a spruce top /Mahogany body a/e, according to my searches, but, value wise, it appears they are not worth a lot of money at resale here in the US. Yes, Garthman is our local expert, IIRC, he owns that particular model.... but the US market is different. Condition and age, as I'm sure you know, are crucial for determining value.

I'm sorry that you were dissatisfied with your custom ordered guitar...I beg to suggest that you should have been extremely specific in regards to specs for a custom order. Particularly ordering from a foreign country. Why Framus? Do you own other Warwick/Framus guitars? As to custom ordered guitars, to get exactly what you want, most people would go to Fender, Gibson...I can see that...but even then, $11,000? For that kind of outlay, I would have expected to see some outrageous wood grain, an ebony fretboard with fancy inlay work....gold hardware....

sorry... Just out of curiosity, why do you want to know?

IIRC, those are basically a modified SF Twin, in head form, with 8 rather than 4 inputs...I haven't seen one in forty something years....they were a nice 'step up' from the Shure Vocal Master PA of the era which was solid state and rated 100W. I have used both, back in the day, and the Fender, despite the feedback issues, was louder and had a lot more 'punch' to cut through the mix than the Shure could muster. They actually are very nice tube amps, but let's be honest, 100W PA systems are not up to the task of competing with powered speakers that can boast over 1200W. If your friend is still planning to sell it, I doubt he will get much more than ~$400 for it...which isn't bad for a 'vintage' tube head.

Both are easy to find, in fact, odds are any replacements you buy in the USA are going to be better quality than the OEM parts. Try looking at https://www.amplifiedparts.com/, StewMac, Guitar Fetish...Reverb.com...Musician's Friend, etc. or even your local mom&pop music store.

If you really cared about your guitar, it would have been safe in its case, not precariously left hanging on a wall [who installed the wall hanger? Think about that before you blame 'luck']...especially with your personal self-image of being "The unluckiest person to ever exist". I'm just saying...if you believe that, then you should be a heck of a lot more careful about your stuff. I would guess more than 95% of guitar players started because it looked like being a rock star was cool. But if you never developed a deep and abiding love for music and your instrument, then I feel terribly sad for you. I've had my gear stolen, and I didn't give up. I've had gear damaged on gigs, and I didn't quit. I'm still doing it, after over 50 years. Accept the blame for the incident, and move on...guitars are the tools, not the muse....

HC is not what it once was, that is for certain...but we are still here...the lights are still on....new owners...

I actually did own one of those^, once, many years ago....most 'unreliable' vehicle I ever owned...but a hoot to drive on the mountain roads here.

I still use a 80's Sabine for doing intonation...as close to a strobe as I own.

Sounds to me like the tuner is having an issue? What kind of tuner is it? If it is a 'simple' tuner, or one with multiple instrument settings, it may be having difficulty locking on the low D note, as it is an octave lower than the D note it usually reads....I have a Fender tuner that is 'finicky' like that.

looks like a Big Muff clone based on the control layout.

yeah, sorry, the archives do not go back to the 'a capella' /pre MF era. They cut off at 2006.

room temperature, or chilled?

close...you will need to add some capacitors...and trace your ground line from the bridge. Wiring a single pickup is pretty basic, and there are tons of diagrams and tutorials out there .

Lars, a photograph would be helpful. Morris [Japan] made some excellent to very good guitars over the years. I cannot, however, find any reference to an MG23. Perhaps look at Reverb.com https://reverb.com/brand/morris This may help you get an idea....

What are you now?

Adding a 250k inline resistor isn't going to replicate a 250k ohm pot. I'd never heard the mod called a 'greaser' either, but I have done this for a couple of folks...the 'greasebucket' mod is designed to prevent bass tone from being added as treble tone is rolled off, by creating a 'bandpass filter' to ground, although having this arrangement opens up some other tonal 'complications', but that is what makes things interesting....the .022uf cap value is not written in stone [could go to .1uf to 2200pf, which adds to the aforementioned 'complications' of a resonant circuit], but I believe this is what Fender used on their Highway One series, which is where the 'greasebucket' moniker was born about 20 years ago, IIRC...

hmmm...never adjusted the neck on either of my 'X' Martins, but there is a 'special' tool [not overly pricey for 'Genuine Martin']: https://www.martinguitar.com/gear-accessories/tools/18TOOL12.html https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/18TOOL12--martin-18tool12-5mm-allen-truss-rod-wrench

I thought we'd already gone there....

smaller gauge, sits deeper... I would just replace the nut.

I did suggest the issue could be at the nut; if the nut is already cut too deep, filing won't help. Do the 'paper' check that garthman suggested.