daddymack

Remember that these are 'studio monitors'...designed for hearing the mix, not changing it....

I would try the left output. Most stereo out type units are left mono if the right side is unused. Can't give you much more without a model number...if you have it, you can check the manual here

$300 to $500 depending on condition and case.

Batch Number and Production Number in the batch... yours was batch 31, 57th unit in the batch https://1isliedse.hashnode.dev/cort-guitar-serial-number-checker

The Baby Taylor is less expensive, but the GS Mini kills it as far as tone and volume. The Martin Mini [LX series] are priced the same as the Baby T. Other options: Yamaha JR1, Ibanez EWP13DBO 'piccolo', Epiphone 'Li'l Tex'. Luna 'Safari, Guild 'Jumbo Junior', Traveler 'Redlands', Gretsch 'Jim Dandy', Breedlove 'Passport Traveler'... If you are in an RV, why scale down?

fify I was expecting this, though...

not currently playable...because?

so we get one pic a day?

I have many how long was that cable you started with? but, yes, you do have to pick the right end....

that should save you a couple of day's work!

Sorry, but no, an intermittent cable is as bad as no cable at all, IMHO.. If he can't identify where the problem is, he should just salvage the jacks and toss the cable, unless it is copper wire, in which case he should salvage the copper too. Another option is to keep cutting the cable shorter by an inch or two until it works, then put the jack back on it and now you have a shorter functional cable.

lookin' good...at first glance I thought maybe you decided to go true hollow body...like the Yamaha 'silent'

thanks bp...I was just going to send him to StewMac....

If the neck is good I'd give ya $50 for that...given the choice between the 2, though, I'd keep the white one.😉

Not bad musically. Your video editor needs to learn to cut on the beat.

Anyone who can solder should have a VOM. Trust, but verify....

Looking good! Rather than adding the switch, why not go for a push/pull on the volume pot? I know you rejected that idea earlier, but it saves you from drilling through that nice finish and possibly chipping it. Aesthetically, I think it will look better than putting a toggle with a cream cap or a gold bat...YMMV.

And that is it in a nutshell...about anything worthwhile. Particularly for you preparing the 'make or break' steps for the body binding, Do you use carborundum or a grinding wheel to sharpen your chisels?

No, you are not 'stupid', but you are trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. The Fender Passport PA was not designed to provide a lot of power, nor a lot of bass. The speakers are adequate...at best. You are using this as a 'home stereo'...which was not the intended purpose. Getting a more powerful amplifier, with a sub crossover would help, but the existing speakers are not going to be up to the task. Sell the Passport to someone who needs a low output PA, and start from scratch on a system that will get you what you want. If all you are looking for is a bedroom stereo that will run with your computer, there are plenty of options....more than I would be able to delineate.

Good read, from a few years back. The answer is that the first electric solidbody guitar was built by Paul Bigsby for Merle Travis. Les Paul's 'Log' was an utter failure, despite his legacy; the actual Les Paul Model was not designed by Les, just endorsed by him. Leo Fender's 'black guitar' was nothing more than a sample unit that never went into production. One could make the case that Rickenbacker's 'Spanish electric' was the first solidbody, being made in the mid 1930s, but those are really lap steels. Fender's Esquire was the first mass produced solidbody, although there were a number of inherent drawbacks which led the evolution to the Telecaster, and eventually the Stratocaster. Undoubtedly there were a number of inventors along the way who made solidbody guitars before WWII, but none made it to mass production.

They are perfectly good basses, and that one looks pristine! Won't ask what you paid, but if you don't play bass much...I'd suggest flipping your p-bass copy and keeping this one. [I only have 2 basses, a p-bass copy I've had for over 40 years, and an acoustic/electric shortscale fretless...why would I need anything else? I only use them for recording ideas, YMMV]

yes...but getting the tolex off the original surface NEATLY can be a PITA.

If it has to be a Hofner, then : Hofner Ignition Pro Bass These have been around for years...unfortunately Sweetwater doesn't carry Hofner....so the link is to a different supplier....you can likely find them used for ~$300/€275 As far as amps, if it is just a bedroom/practice amp, then a quick look at Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bass-Practice-Amp/s?k=Bass+Practice+Amp Fender Rumble, Ampeg, Ashdown, Laney, Positive Grid Spark, Vox, Blackstar Fly...all make relatively inexpensive low wattage practice amps specifically for bass. I currently have an Ampeg BA108, but I had an Ashdown practice amp for many years. And Monoprice even offers one!

kill switch?

ummm Wayne...are you sure you gave us enough pix of that beast? 😉 To be honest, I have never heard of Crumar...I have done work on several Hammonds over the years [Leslies too]. Are there sound samples on their website? [I guess I could go look when I get off 'work'...]