daddymack

In what amplifier?

didn't bother to read through the thread, eh?

well at least they spelled it right.... The tuner holes...there are silicone rubber cones you can buy that work perfectly for that type of application, rather than stuffing paper towel in the holes. https://hightempmasking.com/products/160-piece-plug-kit-1-16-to-1-high-temp-silicone-rubber-powder-coating-paint?variant=25849776775&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_campaign=gs-2018-09-11&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=Cj0KCQiAq5meBhCyARIsAJrtdr4cNtnr8bvBcSDes7fMLgL1jY0O_kMM0xAm5wDn5vJT6yje0exbFZcaAmVQEALw_wcB Lacquer is a very tricky finish to work with, as you now know. I think the final outcome looks okay, but you will have to disclose the re-fin if you sell it.

"This is a hand build, one-of-a-kind guitar." If you were an 8string super shredder, this would be a steal...the EB/MM Petrucci sig is over 4 grand...

I would charge 1800 to do the fret crowning need better pix...is it black? Intonated frets....genius! 8 strings? ...2 too many...IMHO

These amps did not hold their value...MSRP was ~$1500, street was ~1200, now they go for between 350-500 based on condition. The X versions are heavy, too, ~60lbs. Good luck, you may find a tech who can fix it for less than half the resale.

nice piece of bookmatch, though! About the only thing I use CA on is to position a nut. There are several 'luthier's adhesives' out there, but I like TiteBond too. You can 'thin' it, a little, which makes it easier to wipe clean.

These are hybrid amps, which are also 'stereo' capable, so only a 12ax7 'preamp' triode tube is in there, but unlike many other 'hybrids', they utilize it in the output/power section. This amp design is over 20 years old and they have sold a bunch since the first ones came out around 2000, with the VTX following a few years later [with the upgraded plywood cabinet and the neo-dym Celestion speakers. I am not even remotely familiar with the Vox hybrid's circuitry, but I will guess there is a a problem with the 12ax7, a fried output circuit resistor or a bad output transformer involved, especially if the line/headphone out is functional. I would start with a new 12ax7 tube. If that doesn't do it, I would take it to a qualified tech. Was the level control 'dimed' to get a signal out of the headphone/line out? That would indicate a different issue, if the line level was completely functional, which I am guessing, then as I said, start with the tube.

Well, okay, thanks all...Ed Roman is long gone, as is his legacy, so I am closing this thread...'should not speak ill of the dead' and all that.

I hosted jams for years, and cleaned the mic balls/screens every week....but I used my mic with a foam ball windscreen when I was singing, and then switched mics when I was not singing. And that was long before Covid. At minimum, bring your own foam windscreen [which will at least keep you from direct contact with potentially infected surfaces], use a disinfectant wipe on the mic screen if you can't, or bring your own mic, but make sure they know you are swapping them out so the sound guy can adjust the level!

butter and bacon? Really? I can feel the cholesterol forming plaque just reading that..... To the OP: a picture of your Dean might be helpful.....if it looks like the Vendetta I linked you to above, then you really have as much as there is to tell you. Vendettas from that era don't fetch much, maybe $100 to $200, with a case.

https://classifysound.com/how-to-read-dean-guitar-serial-numbers-how-do-you-tell-where-a-dean-guitar-was-made/ I have heard that the s/n for imported Deans is incomprehensible...this site says the same thing. E – World Musical Instruments Co Ltd World Musical Instruments Co Ltd manufactures guitars for a ton of different brands, such as Ibanez, Schecter, and even PRS SE at one point. Yours was likely made between 1996 and 2006. Strat shaped with 3+3 tuners? Maybe a 'Vendetta'. https://www.deanguitars.com/series?id=vendetta

as promised...have at it!

As beautiful as your instruments look, in the final analysis, it is the sound they produce that will be the true test of your skill.

Okay, we will hold the room for ya!

but you will be hungry again in an hour...come by and hang out, I'm going to grill up some Andouille sausage...plenty to go around, got a spare room you can crash in...

Tom, a quick look around the web turned up nothing...you might try inquiring where banjo experts hang out[or at least use to]: https://www.banjohangout.org

[Click the arrow in the box^] A guy named Hal Aiken started doing these in the 1970s...they are 70s era solid state amps, so they don't fetch much, a unit similar to your amp is listed on Reverb.com at $275: https://reverb.com/item/64179583-holmes-pro-compact-210s-2x10-solid-state-combo-amp-w-switchable-germanium-fuzz-drive-channel-spring-reverb

not a poke :poke: ...just waiting for your meticulous work ethic to produce the expected results....take your time, it is your project.

Average cost? What is the average weight of an acoustic guitar? What's the average weight of a case? Shippers like USPS, FedEx and UPS all have posted rates and 'zones'... UPS is probably your best option for US Domestic. Keep in mind, the cost of shipping is money wasted if you are not extremely good at packing the instrument/case to prevent handling damage. Do not trust the UPS Store's packing people....and always insure for more than the sale price of the instrument. Document your packaging process with a video/pix and send that to the buyer so they know what they should expect to receive. Do not ship instruments during the holidays!

Very nicely done!

I have one in my 'sideman' pedalboard, because I have one of pretty much every imaginable pedal, except octave [never saw the need] and flanger [so early 80s], but usually two delays, a boost, an OD/Distotion, noise gate, chorus/phaser, reverb, tremolo....and I did notice an overall improvement in the signal reaching the amp....plus the outbound cable is 18'.

Shalom! If it is really hurting you, then a 3/4 scale instrument may be a better choice for someone of your stature. My wife is ~4'10" /147cm, so I understand the challenges. The selection of 3/4 scale guitars is far better than is used to be, but they are not all that common, unlike violins. Be aware that you are inevitably going to endure pain in your fretting hand, regardless of the instrument size, as you try to train the muscles to go where they have never gone before. That is all part of the guitarist gestalt; we've all been there. Millions give up from this, but a billion of us are still at it I suggest you stay with the classical as it will be easier to deal with the string tension, despite the wider neck, and in many ways, for a beginner, the wider neck helps you to see the finger positions more clearly. Once you have some 'mastery' of the instrument [quick chord changes on the beat, etc.], some muscle memory, and some finger-tip calluses, you will be ready to move to a steel string instrument with a narrower neck. And for the first month you will miss that big wide neck, and those nice, soft, fat strings, as you train your muscles yet again to adapt to the new neck and the stiffer, thinner strings

wudjagitme?