daddymack

yeah, sorry, the archives do not go back to the 'a capella' /pre MF era. They cut off at 2006.

room temperature, or chilled?

close...you will need to add some capacitors...and trace your ground line from the bridge. Wiring a single pickup is pretty basic, and there are tons of diagrams and tutorials out there .

Lars, a photograph would be helpful. Morris [Japan] made some excellent to very good guitars over the years. I cannot, however, find any reference to an MG23. Perhaps look at Reverb.com https://reverb.com/brand/morris This may help you get an idea....

What are you now?

Adding a 250k inline resistor isn't going to replicate a 250k ohm pot. I'd never heard the mod called a 'greaser' either, but I have done this for a couple of folks...the 'greasebucket' mod is designed to prevent bass tone from being added as treble tone is rolled off, by creating a 'bandpass filter' to ground, although having this arrangement opens up some other tonal 'complications', but that is what makes things interesting....the .022uf cap value is not written in stone [could go to .1uf to 2200pf, which adds to the aforementioned 'complications' of a resonant circuit], but I believe this is what Fender used on their Highway One series, which is where the 'greasebucket' moniker was born about 20 years ago, IIRC...

hmmm...never adjusted the neck on either of my 'X' Martins, but there is a 'special' tool [not overly pricey for 'Genuine Martin']: https://www.martinguitar.com/gear-accessories/tools/18TOOL12.html https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/18TOOL12--martin-18tool12-5mm-allen-truss-rod-wrench

I thought we'd already gone there....

smaller gauge, sits deeper... I would just replace the nut.

I did suggest the issue could be at the nut; if the nut is already cut too deep, filing won't help. Do the 'paper' check that garthman suggested.

Brands, yes, there are tons, but they are not the same as manufacturers.

^ Agreed, any gauge change will typically require some adjustments...the lighter gauge could even have slipped into a 'bad position' on the bridge or nut that the medium gauge string rested over. There are really only a handful of actual string manufacturers on the planet, so I doubt this is a 'quality issue' on one string.

Okay, it is a little odd not seeing two separate coils, but that may be just an aesthetic choice? Pots, typically, for a humbucker, should be 500K Ohm, but you could go up to 1 meg.... only one black wire? There isn't a bare wire in there going to the bridge?

Mike, we are here to help. I really want to see how this project turns out when you get further into it. I think, had it been me, I might have put black washers under the knobs, rather than fabbing the wood rings...but I didn't see the damage, so I will trust your call. Why do you say the existing FA p-up is 'funny looking'? From the pic, it looks like a typical uncovered humbucker....

I actually have to butt in on one thing here...I think that resistance [number of windings] + magnet strength does have an effect on the pick-up tone; in my experience, the lower the resistance, the 'darker'/less bright the tone, as well as the difference in output signal strength. I definitely agree that magnet strength is a major factor, but 'over wound' [higher resistance...over 750k Ohm] p-ups tend to be 'hotter', but also noticeably brighter.

I like the custom truss rod cover and back cavity covers...nicely done. That wood grain should come out nicely stained..., it is a shame the FA people buried that wood under that crap finish. Just a thought, but if it were mine, I would fab a steel neck mount plate, considering the softness of the wood...or at least steel ferrules. The body shape is similar to the early 60's Gibson Melody Makers [I have a '62]....which I really dig! Yes, the SD PAF style p-up are great...but will cost twice what you paid for the 'husk'....I would also look at the DiMarzio PAF [one came on my old SG that just had 'that' tone, although it was in the neck, not bridge]. The 'vintage' ones are going up all the time, but the 36th anniversary versions are under $100. You could get lucky on Reverb....

Stealing that graphic for next year's ugly xmas sweater! j/k

The darker/bassier/deeper sound/tone you are looking for should be simple enough to achieve, as long as you can keep your tone pot set at about 5. The bridge position is generally always going to get more twang-y treble mainly due to the proximity to the bridge, not the actual p-up design. What is wrong with the p-up that is in there now? Have a look at GuitarFetish.com as a decent place to find lower-priced humbuckers. I suggest you avoid their 'hot' versions, as they tend [to my ear at least] to sound harsh/brittle/jagged rather than smooth and full. YMMV. Reverb.com is another good place to shop. Both Reverb and GF are also good 'bargain basement' places to look for guitar 'husks', necks, bodies, tuners, etc. Wiring a bridge humbucker as a split coil is a pretty standard wiring method with 4 conductor HBs, but keep in mind that splitting the coils will result in a brighter/thinner tone, so be careful what you wish for. Rather than adding a tap switch, I would suggest a push-pull volume pot/switch. Are you doing a body 'refin' on that First Act? It might look pretty cool just stripped down to the mahogany and tung oiled. Also, keep in mind there is a reason those guitars go for under a C-note used. Check the available adjustment on the truss rod; many came from the factory pretty much maxed. If you are putting .011s on that neck, it could be an issue, unless you plan to use it just for slide, then no problemo.

Welcome to HC, Mike! First, I'm assuming you meant Tung Sol or SovTek tubes [I was just up in Solvang last week...no tubes]. The Legend A30 was an early hybrid, tube pre/solid state power amp like the later Marshall ValveStates. I remember seeing these around in the late 70s. [I think Billy Gibbons used the bigger 50W Legends for a while back then] The amps are pretty cool looking, too, with a caned grill and oak body. Tubes, even little pre-amp ones, do not last forever. Have you replaced the tubes in all the years since you bought that amp? I would start there, since 12AX7 tubes are easy to find and relatively inexpensive. So many things can go bad over time, like capacitors, so if the tubes don't solve your issue, then yeah, you need a good solid state tech. If you 'google' "guitar amp repair Dallas" you should find someone local who can help you out. [Edit] I had to go look..I remembered meeting someone from the DFW area at a guitar show a ways back....they are [boutique] builders, but may be able to put you on to someone who can fix your Legend: https://oldscoolamps.com/ Good Luck!

Budget? Appearance? Covered? There are tons of options, but I doubt you want to put a $200 'bucker in a $100 axe....so please narrow down your field.

There is no rule that says you can only play classical music on a nylon string guitar...ask Earl Klugh....in fact, the recent rash of these narrow necked nylon string guitars is due to a number of players looking for that 'certain sound'.

Yes, do-able, but this will be of little comfort to the OP.... That said, however, the Ibanez AEG50N comes in under $375[US], so about €350. The Cordoba C4-CE is even less, around $275-300. The price of this model just dropped with the recent release of their new 'Stage' model. Both are priced in the 'upper beginner range', but the option is nice to see. Not really a bad price all things considered, but I have not played either, so I can't attest to either the playability or the build quality, but both brands are well known enough to make some assumptions in that regard.

Yes, there are nylon stringed acoustic electrics on the market now with neck profiles much closer to a steel string's nut width and profile. Yamaha [NTX], Ibanez[AEG], Cordoba [Fusion and Stage] and others have started getting into this new 'hybrid' style...I'm in the market for one myself ATM. These typically are a bit pricier than starter classicals, however.

along the same line, [I used to, and I know mikeo also does this] get one of those travel soap holders, drill half a dozen or so small holes in the top, and put the damp sponge in.

In what amplifier?