daddymack

How are blocks more confusing than dots? I can't see how a 1st fret block would be an issue except to a rank beginner, which I know you are not. I have guitars with both and I have no real preference, although the blocks look much more 'high-end'. I, too, like the out-of-phase sound of the mid switch position on a H-H, or even an S-S, like a Tele, Mustang, Jaguar, Jazzmaster.

simple answer... ESP makes several lines of guitars, like LTD, Edwards and Navigator. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ESP_Guitars https://www.amazon.com/ESP-EC-256-Electric-Guitar-Black/dp/B00BEZY290 personally I think 'seeing' the strings is not an issue, and block inlays are easy to get used to, and the 12 fret one is distinct because there are two un-inlayed frets on either side. Looking at the pic above, I think the strings on the black guitar are much easier to see. If I were looking to cover that much territory with an H-H, I would likely go with a semi-hollow...but that is just me, and I have all sorts of guitars to cover all sorts of music. As to grounding /shielding, do not confuse or conflate the two. Shielding is to deter external signal noise from RF signals which can come from a myriad of sources, particularly fluorescent lights. Shielding the cavity is important because all the wiring, pots, and jack are there, all acting like an antenna. Grounding is there to keep you from getting electrocuted😉 As to covered uncovered p-ups? Meh...more online nonsense that started decades ago when people believed their p-ups were louder with the covers removed. It is far more of an aesthetic choice than for grounding or shielding. Do not accept everything posted on the intawebz as being true...particularly if you have no idea who the poster is! Your picking hand should not be 'resting' on the pickguard... at most, the heel of your picking hand could be 'resting' on the bridge, allowing for muting. But really, your picking hand should be able to move freely across the strings, not anchored below them.

nice deal...I have modded a couple Xavieres, usually the p-ups, a 'Bill Kirchen flip'* or a '4 or 5 way' switch set up...they are decently built and they don't go el cheapo on their pots and switches like so many other Chinese builders. I like the look of that mini-humbucker on the butterscotch. Do you notice any tonal difference between the brass vs steel bridge? *I did this to my Tele copy, puts the switch at the bottom of the plate, and then you switch the volume and tone pot positions, so the volume knob is at the top, so the volume knob is more accessible for swells and fades, and the tone is in the middle of the plate.

well...my ES-135 has a pair of 57's...but frankly, yes, you should be able to achieve that tone once you identify all the components.

Someone mentioned the newer Fender Mustang amps, which might work for you, also the Fender Champion modeler. Oddly the Stage 1000 was not the 'heavy hitter' in that series, the Stage 160 was.

after all that, eh? Sorry it didn't work out for ya.

I will assume that where you are using the term 'fingerboard', you mean pickguard. BTW, there could have been a myriad of issues between your instrument and your PC 'buzzing', like fluorescent lights, bad grounding or reversed polarity on the house current, poorly grounded/shielded interface/cable. You could just buy preconfigured pickguard[s] for the Squier, for a lot less than replacing the guitar.

You might consider a HH with coil splits. That would get you more options as far as single coil tone. Or a T-style with a neck humbucker. If it were up to me, I would get one really good guitar, rather than getting two mediocre guitars.

Although I agree that the on-line shopper is the wave of the future, somethings, like guitars, cars, houses, dogs and shoes need to be tried out before buying. Would I be willing to pay a fee to go try out something? I dunno'bou'that....although if it would prevent the usual crowd of pimply-faced teens playing bad imitations of 'Enter Sandman' or 'Stairway to Freebird', then maybe it would be worth it. They closed the closest Sam A$h...which makes going to any of the remaining ones a multi-hour trek. Fortunately, GC Corporate is only a few miles [as the crow flies] from where I sit, so they have not closed any local stores since the post pandemic 're-openings'.

um, yeah well it is the Unofficial MARTIN GUITAR Forum...what did you expect? They are fanboys. I have never been there, and I own 2 Martins.

okay! Back on track! What happened with the #2 rework plan?

To be clear, I have no idea what IIi or a IV is, I own 2 'blonds', both are over 20 years old. Both have been modded [standby switch, speaker swaps, etc] which, for me, was better than just buying a whole new amp [or two...]. That is one of the beauties of the BJ, there are tons of simple mods that can be done that will change the sound. Are the speakers the same in the III and the IV? Transformers? Tubes...? So here's the next question, if you think the IV sounds better to you, then why ask the opinions of people who you don' t know? Follow your own instincts.

Better in what sense?

Le 'nom de plume' 'harmuser', en Anglais, c'est 'harm user', ce n'est-pas bon, comprendez-vous? FYI, posting links on your first post here is rarely going to get you any results...and with that user name? We are pretty 'gun shy' about that after decades of spam, porn and malware. Is it possible for you to post the actual images, rather than links?

Sent

£300 is roughly $355 if my converter is correct. Give or take a quarter. Sounds like a lot of guitar for a very reasonable price.

Pics would help....TBH I don't think I have ever seen one. But from old threads here, I learned a little... The Crafter brand has been around a while, and there are some inexpensive models, and some over $1000 models out there. The originals were made in Korea for the Korean market [back in the early 1970s IIRC]. There is a USA distribution group for Crafter, I believe it is EMD in TN [seems I recall them announcing this a year or so ago...]. The TD06N is a spruce top /Mahogany body a/e, according to my searches, but, value wise, it appears they are not worth a lot of money at resale here in the US. Yes, Garthman is our local expert, IIRC, he owns that particular model.... but the US market is different. Condition and age, as I'm sure you know, are crucial for determining value.

I'm sorry that you were dissatisfied with your custom ordered guitar...I beg to suggest that you should have been extremely specific in regards to specs for a custom order. Particularly ordering from a foreign country. Why Framus? Do you own other Warwick/Framus guitars? As to custom ordered guitars, to get exactly what you want, most people would go to Fender, Gibson...I can see that...but even then, $11,000? For that kind of outlay, I would have expected to see some outrageous wood grain, an ebony fretboard with fancy inlay work....gold hardware....

sorry... Just out of curiosity, why do you want to know?

IIRC, those are basically a modified SF Twin, in head form, with 8 rather than 4 inputs...I haven't seen one in forty something years....they were a nice 'step up' from the Shure Vocal Master PA of the era which was solid state and rated 100W. I have used both, back in the day, and the Fender, despite the feedback issues, was louder and had a lot more 'punch' to cut through the mix than the Shure could muster. They actually are very nice tube amps, but let's be honest, 100W PA systems are not up to the task of competing with powered speakers that can boast over 1200W. If your friend is still planning to sell it, I doubt he will get much more than ~$400 for it...which isn't bad for a 'vintage' tube head.

Both are easy to find, in fact, odds are any replacements you buy in the USA are going to be better quality than the OEM parts. Try looking at https://www.amplifiedparts.com/, StewMac, Guitar Fetish...Reverb.com...Musician's Friend, etc. or even your local mom&pop music store.

If you really cared about your guitar, it would have been safe in its case, not precariously left hanging on a wall [who installed the wall hanger? Think about that before you blame 'luck']...especially with your personal self-image of being "The unluckiest person to ever exist". I'm just saying...if you believe that, then you should be a heck of a lot more careful about your stuff. I would guess more than 95% of guitar players started because it looked like being a rock star was cool. But if you never developed a deep and abiding love for music and your instrument, then I feel terribly sad for you. I've had my gear stolen, and I didn't give up. I've had gear damaged on gigs, and I didn't quit. I'm still doing it, after over 50 years. Accept the blame for the incident, and move on...guitars are the tools, not the muse....

HC is not what it once was, that is for certain...but we are still here...the lights are still on....new owners...

I actually did own one of those^, once, many years ago....most 'unreliable' vehicle I ever owned...but a hoot to drive on the mountain roads here.

I still use a 80's Sabine for doing intonation...as close to a strobe as I own.