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daddymack

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Everything posted by daddymack

  1. The Epi dot is their 'bottom feeder'. The Epiphone Sheraton is actually the better 335 style, not their ES335. I would put a Sheraton up against the Guild Starfire I any day of the week.
  2. Couldn't tell ya...never played an Eastman. I can only say that the 486 appears to be the higher end model than the 386 For what you would pay for a Starfire IV, though, I would go for the Eastman T486.
  3. you keep saying this...how many guitars do you own? do they all have the same radius....?
  4. define 'best'.... a thousand dollars or euros or pounds? your best shot: [£1000] T486 or T386.... [$ or €] on the used market.
  5. Pretty much any instrument you buy will need a 'set-up'...high action , fret buzz...all easily remedied, but most stores just put the factory set guitar on a hook....
  6. I suppose nethan could try contacting the Custom Shop people there and ask, but I don't think they have offered rewinds for decades.
  7. ce n'est pas un probème, mon amie... I'm okay with it.... I doubt the other mods or admins will protest.
  8. Price no problem? My first choice: Lindy! Last I heard, Lollar was not taking any new rewind orders. You could ask, though.
  9. So for just home use, of the 2, I think I would go with the Casino, because the hollow body's acoustic sound, when playing at low levels, creates a secondary auditory environment.
  10. Ouch!!! Sorry to see that...I don't know what that 'thing' is...I only fix guitars...I don't make them. I'm guessing it is a purfling groove cutter, so I would think there should be blades or an adjunct knife...looking at this online...yep....obviously this gets done often enough that they sell the tools [I may buy a set, just in case]. What do you have in there now? It looks like a finishing nail....? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CR17R58Q/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0CR17R58Q&pd_rd_w=8uDU0&content-id=amzn1.sym.0d1092dc-81bb-493f-8769-d5c802257e94&pf_rd_p=0d1092dc-81bb-493f-8769-d5c802257e94&pf_rd_r=GHE7ZKTWPAEVS9KY9MRE&pd_rd_wg=aetw0&pd_rd_r=c49eaf15-65c0-408d-bc4d-47a27666a718&s=musical-instruments&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWwy Do you have one of these? https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/tools-by-job/tools-for-violins/purflingsoundhole-router-guide/?mtm_source=google&mtm_medium=cpc&mtm_campaign=|+GOO+|+SHOP+|+NBR+|+AllProductsUSA&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwt-OwBhBnEiwAgwzrUq35l95nXTUQeNqI9g51zMWSD4Dx6eqyFGs3j1nA1nMU53TAYqJK3BoCyI4QAvD_BwE
  11. Actually, I find the 335 style guitar is extremely versatile, and as capable as most guitars...okay, sure, it is no superstrat with a floyd.... but for general rock, blues, country, R&B, ska, zydeco, jazz, fusion...it has its place at the table.
  12. Budget is a good starting point. What are you wanting to spend? New, or used? Are you after a platform for mods, or a performance tool? Any of the above mentioned instruments fit in the general description. Glarry and Firefly make decent 335 body knockoffs that, with some soldering skills and patience, can be upgraded [pots, bridge, tuners, p-ups] to very good players. I also am a fan of the D'Angelico Premier DC models which frequently go on sale as they reconfigure the design. The DC Excel gets pricey [US$2000]. The Eastwood Classic 6 is also an interesting option. I also like the Epi Sheraton...the Epi 'Dot' can be hit or miss quality-wise. Harley Benton, of course, has some budget models as well.
  13. And they are easily replaced...
  14. Welcome to HC.... FYI we use private messages for 'off-board' discussions' None here will email you once you are verified. I have only seen one Lyle which belonged to a bandmate in the early '70s....sort of a Coronado copy. I'm sure you know there were a number of instruments identical to Lyles under different names. Lyles were imported by the L.D. Heater Co. in Oregon from the 50's to the late 70's. serial number info: http://www.matsumoku.org/cm_models/serial-no-dating-info/ Please do post a pic or two.... Have you checked at the Mandolin Cafe?
  15. Dumpster diving this week, eh? This is a 2 year old thread...but...frankly, anyone who believes that their Mesa is biased too cold needs to buy a Dumble.
  16. Hoot...you are a year and a half late entering into this...and he never came back after I tried to explain the basics to him....
  17. Pic would help...please show us the old switch
  18. 1) get a longer set screw and don't try to mend the split shaft. 2) yay! 3) the pickguard is just a bit too large by .5-.75 width, and sits too high [IMHO] but it does bring the headstock 'home' 4)I'm just trying to find the bridge! Has anybody seen the bridge? Please! (Have you seen the bridge?) I ain't seen the bridge! (Where's that confounded bridge?)
  19. the other advantage to the jack plate is you don't need an output jack tightener. Just a screw driver and pliers/wrench. Nothing worse on a gig than having an intermittent signal due to a loose jack! I have two...one for the shop, and a different one in the gig-kit
  20. u6, I was thinking about this a while back, and I am glad to see you are back on it. Typically I use fishing line and load the pots/switch through the f-hole. Other people use surgical tubing. I know that Coros have weird f-holes [size and center point*], so the parts won't go in that way? As to the jack...yes, the jack plate is the proper solution. One of the more common repairs I've done is retrieving 'sucked in' jacks and adding a jack plate. *the classic design is centered at the bridge...not your fault these were not designed by luthiers.
  21. My fave is still open G, both on guitar and on lap.... on guitar, I can still partial chord. Must be the Keef effect....but I keep all 6 strings....
  22. people left...where were you?
  23. ah, but which way to read those numbers? 0060918 or 8160900? Agreed the Jinhos are Korean tuners...and most of the detailing is accurate, although there is no truss rod cover, and no plastic plate behind the bridge. So possibly the pre-2014 Dillon...or
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