daddymack

yeah, and nothing from nothing is still nothing...and that's what I get paid....

I always saw these as a solution in search of a problem...but people do buy them...

Interesting choice, and at 80 bux, such a deal! I vaguely recall there being some issues with the switching power supply and some diodes, but if yours is working, then the upgrade was likely done.

perhaps some Bible study would straighten out that un-Christian attitude. Remind him he is not loving you the way he loves himself...wait, that may not be the best approach... just go with the Golden Rule

Then, by all means drive yours rather than stealing one.... Passive DI boxes are not that expensive.... IIRC, and it has been a while, the Cube 80XL has a line out, a headphone out and a speaker out....have your sound guy try the line out without a DI...does your board have mic pre's?

What's your favorite pickup type and position? the Open Jam Answer: Filipina women, and doggie style.

sadly, that amp was not designed for guitar, or any live sound, and will be a disappointment...great monoblock amp for hi-fi, though!

sounded like she has a tuning issue, maybe the whammy jacked her up?

possibly. Replace the tone pot and see... That was my first inclination based on your posts. What year is your SG? 'frying' a potentiometer is not an easy thing to do, they should last decades [my '62 Melody Maker still has its original pots].

view this video...you could skip to about 10:00 in. On your SG there is no simple 'do this', IMHO, because of the terribly sloppy solder and wire routing. If you brought this to me, I would unsolder all that spider...first...and then re-do it neatly. Then I would be able to start looking for shorts. but...for your approach, when you do this: " I connected the volume tab to the 2nd tone tab directly with a wire (no capacitor)" check the hot lead to ground with the VOM.

looking at the 'spaghetti spider' soldered to that one pot by the switch, I would probably start there.... yes, you should trace each connection with a VOM, and test the 'hot lead' and see if it is shorted to ground.

that stuff is better to strip finishes, in my limited experience...

E-H ctrl Knob or digitech Freqout ...

and it is fine, as a band member, to voice your opinion and make suggestions. The trick is timing and tactfulness...

I worked with and around solvents and acids most of my career. I applaud your safety steps, however, mason jars are not recommended for storage of flammables...just a FYI

I have not tried out the MicroPro yet. But I am a die-hard tube amp guy, and I own a Quilter Aviator head that I actually have gigged [with a 1x12 cab]. I tried SS amps and modelers/profilers for decades and was disappointed repeatedly [Johnson, Line 6, Vox, Marshall, Fender, etc.] or priced out of the game [Kemper]. The Aviator is the first SS amp I have owned that I felt was gig-worthy, and capable of getting me the sounds I hear in my head...particularly 'high clarity' cleans, but also the 'growl'. That said, I would likely not use it for hard rock gigs, because my tube amps [Fender, Vox, Blackstar] have that covered, but the Quilter covers a lot of the same territory while providing that high headroom clean if you need it. If you need the 'controlled feedback' thing, there are plenty of pedals that can supply that for you.

I have learned over the years that typically no one in the band wants to be 'the DICK'. So easily remedied things get left to fester, and things tend to unravel. I have been 'the DICK' a few times. The last time, the band lasted over 20 years.

you needed Deep Purfle.... I like the sheen on the wood..and don't be inhaling that denatured alcohol....don't ask why I say that...

Better buy 3 sets...that could be a lifetime supply!

maybe not 'immortal', technically as they are not mortal to begin with...however I had flat wounds on my P-bass copy for over a decade, they always sounded the same....muddy but fat. I loaned it to a former bandmate as his backup bass...didn't see it for ten years....when I [finally] got it back, it had Rotosounds on it [or so he claimed]. They are still on there...that was 1998...

25mm=0.984252 inch if this isn't close enough, you should be able to find your length...now you know exactly what to search for. and you still haven't explained why you need replacement pole pieces....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174837000114?chn=ps&var=474016656370&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=474016656370_174837000114&targetid=1262749491342&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9031634&poi=&campaignid=15428034462&mkgroupid=133947154481&rlsatarget=pla-1262749491342&abcId=9300763&merchantid=108579349&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6pOTBhCTARIsAHF23fLGrOcvDGtvw_LG0Q1mQTT0t1VpcFmoXRyJoszBtxqznElyFIoFYm8aAlPoEALw_wcB

it depends...flat wounds? Don't bother.... Round wounds? When the G octave harmonic sounds like a rubber mallet on an anvil, time to change....

posts will not be graded, just commented on and lampooned....

Another potential culprit is the ratio of the tone pot...ksl, you said you swapped out the pot and no change, and mentioned linear pot issues from the past, so I initially didn't consider that...but do you know what the taper ratio is on those pots? 'Audio taper' has multiple tapers, so if you don't specify a 60:40 ratio, you could have a 90:10 [reversed log] ratio which would account for your results. Just another possible explanation...