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daddymack

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Everything posted by daddymack

  1. actually .10 is not correct...#10-32....a #10 screw is .190 in diameter...fine thread is 32 turns per inch, 24 turns per inch is coarse thread...sorry, too many years in the aerospace industry.
  2. '10-32 set screws gold plated' is what you want...but I have to ask why?
  3. apparently to him it is...to you and I? Not so much....
  4. My point was about within the guitar....but yes, once it reaches the amplifier, and the 'signal processing' starts, ultimately nothing escapes the 'eternal loop'
  5. well, the prime signal doesn't go to ground....everything else does
  6. since covfefe hit, I've picked up two, an electric Danelectro 12 [brand new, $299, how could I resist?], and a Martin XD-2E. I had done duo work with 12 string players in my 'formative period', and have always felt that despite their limited application, there is a place at the table for them. A large piece of my 'revised' solo act relies on the Martin 12...played finger-style. I didn't feel the need to go high end, since the 12s won't be for collecting, but for performance on relatively low paying gigs, and I will not risk a multi-thousand dollar instrument on a $200 gig. Plus, I traded a bunch of gear I didn't need or want [a Crate amp, pedals] for the Martin [and a HSC]...no cash out of pocket!
  7. looking forward to the final results...but for fun...you could show us the unfinished body, through the entire process... we've got nothing else to do around here 😉
  8. favorite? None...because so much depends on what I'm playing [I'm pretty darned eclectic], and which guitar. For the past 7 years or so I have immersed myself into a thinline tele with 2 P90s...but I would not want a P90 on, say, my Danelectro 12 string...there, the lipstick p-up is nigh on perfect. I have enough guitars to know there is no one best pickup. The neck minihumbucker [Gibson] on my Epi AlleyKat is definitely special, but so are my '57 classics on my ES135, the DiMarzio SDS on my strat [bridge], the Fralin bridge p-up on my Tele copy...each serves a specific purpose...none is 'better' than the others in the final analysis. But this is why there are so many p-ups on the market.
  9. try putting the capacitor between the volume in and the tone out. I'm assuming they are both audio taper pots at 250K ohm.
  10. slick...without seeing the wood and grain, then it is hard to point you at a specific paint [for different reasons]...and not knowing what color[s] and finish you are intending, there is not much to tell you. There is a lot of stuff you need to look up and at, and that's on you. The internet has the information, you just need to decide what exactly you are trying to do, but 'paint a guitar body' is too vague. You give us specifics, we give you specifics. Example: I prefer to paint with enamel. But softer woods, when banged, will allow the enamel to crack. So on softer woods, enamel is not always a great paint. Also, before you try painting that guitar body, practice on scrap wood, learn the 'sweep' and get a feel for the coverage. I have found that spray guns can vary a bit. You can actually practice with water, to get the feel of it, and save your paint!
  11. Your spraygun should have come with a viscosity cup. The manual should have this same data specific to your particular model. The wood should be sanded smooth, wiped with takcloth, and lightly sprayed with soapy water and wiped off. Depending on the wood and the grain, and your intended outcome, there are decisions to make as to primer, and what type of paint. Clear coat? Poly is simple, inexpensive and easily obtained.
  12. took 3 minutes...google ed mundell .... 'Superjudge' was his first album with MM
  13. viscosity cup.... what paint? what thinner? what tip? did you read the manual that came with the spray gun?
  14. ...relax, slow breaths...no coughing!😉
  15. Why, yes, yes you are! de facto as well....
  16. you must not own any Gibsons from the early Norlin era. They can't even nail down a year on some between 70 and 72...
  17. pictures I've seen...in the flesh wood? Not a one...I hear they sell out pretty fast, but too pricey for my budget.
  18. no offense taken...many years...started before we went to Gibson....
  19. got google? Seriously, this is not something any one could answer for you in a few paragraphs. There are youtube vids out there...
  20. you mean the 'golden-era Gibson design as the inspiration for a vintage Martin that never existed'? Never even saw one...
  21. Yes, there are far too many choices...but that is a wonderful thing! I'm only going to scratch the surface here .... Based on the musical styles that you listed, and the under $1000 limit, if it were my choice, I would be leaning to a real hollowbody, rather than something like the SE, as there are so many decent quality hollow and semi hollow guitars out now that list under a grand. Epiphone, Gretsch, D'Angelico, and a number of other companies have flooded the market...and I would probably be leaning toward something like the Epiphone Wildkat [2 P90s, and a Bigsby], or possibly a Grestch Electromatic [2 Filter'Trons and a bigsby] or a D'Angelico Premier SS [2 humbuckers], Eastwood Classic 6, and on and on. Used options abound as well, like a Dean Palomino [3 P90s]... Bigsbys do take some getting used to, and they can be a major PITA to change strings...but they have their place at the table. As to amps..depending which 'Champ' version you have, for gigging with a live drummer, you would likely want something at least 15W [tube], with reverb...plenty of choices in that range now as well...the ubiquitous Fender Blues Junior [I own 2], Vox AC15, Marshall DSL20, Blackstar HT20 [I own 1]...or go for solid state, like Quilter [I own an Aviator head], or a modeler like Line 6.
  22. This method is, and has been, done for a number of years. In Gardo's case, he opted for a low end unit to 'try out' the concept. I would suggest that a 'high quality' amp modeler and any well-made powered speaker will lighten your load considerably, and produce reasonably satisfactory results.
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