daddymack

Well there is a lot more to it, so if you would be so kind as to answer a few more questions, we can likely be far more helpful... What is your budget? What size rooms do you intend to play? What kind of mic are you using to sing through? [a condenser requiring phantom power will narrow your amp choices] Is your classical a/e, or are you mic-ing it? Are your backing tracks ported out via midi or USB? [again this may impact the potential selection] My personal rule of thumb for acoustic/vocal performance amps is a minimum of 65 watts [obviously a solid state amp] to leave headroom and avoid the high end 'fizzies' many lower wattage SS amps tend to generate as they reach max volume... To be honest, I have found most 'acoustic guitar amps' to be a dead end, gig wise...even if they have a line out, since there will be a volume and dispersion limit on most stand-alone box type amps. If you are adding tracks...now you are at 3 or 4 inputs, which is a stretch for most bespoke acoustic guitar amps. So in that case, I would suggest a small 4-6 channel passive mixer and a powered speaker [s] [with some bottom end to help the bass end of your tracks, so a 12" or 15"] or look at some of the new 'stick' units[column arrays] with 4+ inputs. The advantage to this approach is scalability if you decide to add a second vocalist, etc. and typically higher wattage in powered speakers and columns. Fortunately for you, you are in the perfect area to go see, hear and test units....[it's okay, I used my moderator voodoo to locate you] I know because I live in the same general area

Welcome, N0oBz...this thread dates back to 2008, so most of the folks who posted are long since gone from here. The main reason Denny's guitars were getting slammed was that no one could go out and compare one, side by side with other guitars in the price range; you had to 'buy it to try it', which apparently ticked off a lot of folks. Yes, they do pay return shipping, but what a hassle, right? Like anything else, if you bought it, and you like it, then that is all that truly matters. Forget the corksniffers [and there are plenty of them] and naysayers. Opinions...well, everyone has one, sometimes about things they really know nothing about. Not everyone is comfortable taking a $2500+ guitar out on a $100 gig...I know I'm not, which creates the niche for instruments like the Zagers, Andrew Whites, etc. They are certainly 'giggable' guitars, and what the hell else is a guitar good for?

The script logo places that around 1974/1975

looks like the Monterey 'JP Std'....MIJ...bolt neck...and someone put stickers on the neck The one linked below listed for $180...so, obviously not a highly valuable piece, so if you are bidding, keep that price in mind. https://reverb.com/item/496251-fernandes-monterey-jp-std

okay...and what, pray tell, does this have to do with amplifiers? Simple solution...they are Con AllStars? Toss'em in the laundry.

best to discharge, although the 'can' caps you indicated are likely non-lethal, they could still potentially generate a numbing effect up your arm. [How do I know this? $#!+ happens......usually to me...]. IMHO, it is always preferable to discharge the caps before doing ANY work....safety first!* If you can flip the board, then yes, check the existing joint. Re-solder if need be, but make certain the 'pad' is intact and still connected to the 'lands'. Do not overheat! Clean and pre-tin the soldering iron tip before hand. *...and stop tracking mud all over my nice clean kitchen floor. Don't talk with your mouth full. Always look both ways before crossing the street...don't run with scissors...

I'm down near Los Angeles, but just NW in east Ventura County...I call it Hooterville....

maraming salamat, pare! Best regards to your family in the PI! We do have another pinoy, MBengs, who stops by every now and then...he's on Mindanao. We were scheduled to be in the PI March 2020 [for my F-i-L's 95th ], but that couldn't happen, and now, with the Filipino quarantine requirements still in force, we're not going anytime soon. How long have you been in the US?

ako intindihan conti lang...and you have exceeded it... my wife, [aka MommaMack] is a pinay from Ilocos Sur, along with her bothers and sisters, and 300-some-odd cousins here in SoCal. Always wanted to get to Davao/Mindanao, Cebu, Samar....been to PI twice. Luzon...Manila, Baguio, points in between...

watching the vid, I also assumed it was just magnetic pull, p-u too high, but now...that's a .052...hmmm...did you change string gauges recently? Without having the axe on the bench? Hard to make a definitive call...magnetic tension is always present on the strings, and if this only goes away absent the magnetic tension, then yes, you lose your sound...but something else seems to be in play here. Oddly, this is only on the low E... Are the pole pieces flush? I would look at the neck relief [because the 'buzz' is more pronounced past the octave, and gets worse the closer to the neck pocket], and examine the nut slot depth/width and the bridge saddle height and slot depth. I would first try raising the string height at the bridge slightly while the p-up is still 'pulling' and see if that diminishes the issue. Since it is an .052, the 'deflection' should not be so pronounced...a combination of higher string and lower p-up may solve this.

I saw the song title and said to myself ' maybe we have a new Pinoy on board...a Cebuano!' kumusta ka na?

it's a 'lozenge' case!

I agree, there are some who will take advantage of people for their own gain. Those people should be avoided at all cost, and outed whenever possible...

Have you considered using upright bass strings? The low strings run around .170...just a thought...

obviously not to the OP...and there are likely others out in the world who would love that finish, body shape, etc. Hopefully he can find one. I am curious as to why he is asking about the value...curiosity? Selling? Trading?

To be fair, some 'flippers' are 'value added types' who will upgrade parts to make the instrument better...and pass that cost along with the instrument. But if you could get a 335 type guitar with DiMarzo PAFs of Duncans in there...better tuners, better bridge, CTS pots, orange drop caps [IMHO pointless, but some people swear by them], etc...and you don't have to lift a finger, for a little more than a stock Epi Dot costs? Why not?

It sounds to me like the cap should be replaced, not re-seated. Depending on the voltage rating of the caps, [and any cap can shock you], any caps anywhere near where you are planning to work should be discharged prior to poking around...so you need a discharge 'stick' similar to this What type of capacitor? [actually the type doesn't make much difference as long as it isn't a SMT wave soldered chip cap] If it is a can, tantalum, disk, whatever... do the 'old tech'* trick...just cut just the cap out, leave the 'legs', solder the new cap leads to the old 'legs', voila! No soldering to the board, no flipping the board...easy access to the part....as long as it doesn't sit too high [above profile] you should be fine. No, this does not meet NASA or DoD specs, but this gets done all the time on amp repairs.... *I learned this in the late 60s from a TV repairman, who used to build TV cameras for RCA in the 1950s. When I went into computer manufacturing in the 70s, I showed this to a couple of the 'bench techs', who had to 'tweak' PCBAs, typically a cap here or a resistor there...this saved tons of time and limited potential damage to the boards. oh, and 1k1G...save the 'likes' for themz wut needzem...everybody here hates the moderators anyway....

rough xlation [Portuguese]: Guys, can anyone tell me which VIPER the CARVIN SX 300C Amplifier uses (PC PWM VIPER component)?

Welcome, Hank. You are obviously 'involved with GF.com', but I will leave your link, as it may help some newbies make a decision. Actually, your own website has some great info as well. Flipping axes, though, can be a challenge, especially with current shipping charges going up almost daily, and if one is not very knowledgeable about virtually everything guitar related, it is very easy to get stuck with a dog. Flipping high end guitars is a roller coaster ride [take a look at some of the better guys, like Austin/Trogly], and flipping low end guitars can be a short walk off an even shorter pier...but, that said, there are so many Asian manufacturers who are just coming in to their own, that there is a potential market if you know how to buy low, sell higher, and keep inventory moving. I did this for a while [direct with a mfr, our own logo, our specs, etc, and I personally did the set ups here in the US when they arrived] but ultimately found the time spent was not giving me a reasonable ROI. I think the days of finding a a 1959 LPJr in original case at a yard sale are pretty slim. But the odds of getting something like a Firefly and flipping it for a profit still exist. As a seller you need to know exactly whom your target market is, and figure out a cheap but effective means of reaching those targets [customer acquisition cost]. You will survive and succeed based on the reviews of prior customers, so you need to be a fair dealer. You will want to be able to make adjustments and reasonable 'repairs' on your own, since paying an 'outside tech' will kill your margin rapidly. Even pawnshops are now pretty savvy to $ value of instruments, thanks to the internet, so finding used bargains has become a serious challenge. To anyone wishing to do this, best of luck!

IIRC, Gordys were built in the UK [Gordon Smith Guitars?]. I don't think I have ever seen one in person, or even seen a sale listing for one in the USA. As to the value? As Gardo so eloquently put it, the value is for whatever you can sell it. Without any basis for comparison, I don't think we can give much assistance here unless one of our UK or Euro forumites has some insight.

During our second 'rehearsal', when she explained her key preference, I only had one guitar, but I dropped it a half step while she was still talking.... apparently none of her other past accompanists had ever taken that approach...maybe I'm lazy...but it worked out pretty well I keep my Martin 12 and another acoustic tuned to D to accommodate my voice as well, rather than relearning scads of songs and most horn and keyboard players appreciate that I'm actually playing in C, not D I also came to dislike capos over the years, so although I own half a dozen, I couldn't tell you where any of them are ATM...😉

or F#

Several years ago, for a while, I backed a lady vocalist who insisted everything be in Eb...it was 'her key' [it actually wasn't, she was far better in C] so I would just tune down one guitar rather than re-learn the songs...most of which were in Emi for some reason...she really liked minor keys. When I would chart for my band, I used the 'Roman' numbering system, rather than actual chords, so we could change keys pretty easily.

as you wish....

I'd rather get it with the full vax and booster than without... But I have no intention of getting it. Are you serious? Does the flu kill 5.5 million people world wide? Blame the news media? Are you kidding? This would have to be a conspiracy of impossible proportion to involve the international news media, WHO, every government on earth... FACT: No, a million people have not died in this country that were vaxed...where do people find this nonsense? FACT: Only 858000 Americans have died, most in the time before the vaccine was available. FACT: Vaccinated people make up less than 1% of deaths since the vaccine became available. Spreading disinformation here is not permitted. Perhaps you need to look into some serious actual research before you post ridiculously inane claims about something that you obviously have no understanding. But you will have to do that somewhere else...because you...are ...toast!