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How long does it take you to change all 6 strings?


RobC99

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200 lbs... what are you using for a low E string, a telephone cable? 30 years of playing and teching, working at Martin and at Ibanez, and I never heard of a string tension at 200lbs. And the one string at a time theory.... I believe is bogus. NEVER had an issue with any guitar, regardless of price point. Yes, the neck will move, and when you replace the tension, it will return. Even the 87 Ibanez Sabre, with the original Wizard neck which is as thin as possible, will go right back to normal.

 

 

Thank you. I thought it was only me who was preared to challenge WNKARE's perceived "wisdom".

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200 lbs... what are you using for a low E string, a telephone cable? 30 years of playing and teching, working at Martin and at Ibanez, and I never heard of a string tension at 200lbs. And the one string at a time theory.... I believe is bogus. NEVER had an issue with any guitar, regardless of price point. Yes, the neck will move, and when you replace the tension, it will return. Even the 87 Ibanez Sabre, with the original Wizard neck which is as thin as possible, will go right back to normal.

 

Thank you. I thought it was only me who was prepared to challenge WNKARE's perceived "wisdom".
Why do you begrudge others having experience or wisdom? Do you expect me to apologize for having some experience on topics I post? If so I say that's ridiculous. String tension is kindergarten stuff anyone can verify on line.

 

If you're too lazy to verify it yourself, you can at least refrain back bighting people who do it for you. If you're intentions are to build a consensus against me because you have a personal grudge, I suggest an easier method. All you have to do is wait till I truly have screwed up before you jump in there and bust my chops. I don't mind you beating up on me if it was to get that stupid chip off your shoulder. In the mean time grow up and stop stalking people.

 

I said "between" 100~200lbs and I'd say that was a fair guestimate without having to provide verification. That guestimate may be a bit high for some but given how many tend to brag about how manly they are using heavier gauged strings I figured I'd be safe and include the higher ranges. If you play acoustic or jazz guitar there are sets that can reach the 200 range.

 

If you visit string manufacturer sites like D'Addario and GHS, and research the topic and you may be surprised at what you find. It seems It only takes a simple calculator and you can add it up for yourself. If you go here and select the center tab for description, http://www.juststrings.com/dad-eps600.html they list the individual string tensions and you can verify my math if you want. You can go deeper and check it out in more detail here. http://daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf

 

8/32 = 68lbs total

9/42 = 82lbs total

9/46 = 84lbs total

10/46 = 94lbs total - I figured these are the most popular and they are very close to 100lbs. D'Addarios are more flexible that many strings out there so I can safely say many sets may be at or slightly above 100lbs.

11/48 = 125lbs total. - I think those qualify as being between 100~200lbs

12/52 = 145lbs total - I think those qualify as being between 100~200lbs as well

13/56 = 171lbs total - Theses are at the high end of what most electric guitarists might use but many like Stevie Ray Vaughn used them. The tension was less of course because he tuned a half step low.

 

None of these are telephone cables, but for bass you should know the tension begins at 250lbs for light gauge 45/105 strings and "may" be higher for medium and heavy strings. Manufacturers often maintain tension using the same core sizes and just use thicker wraps on their strings.

 

I didn't include the big core strings many are using now for lower guitar tunings now. GHS doesn't list the tensions and I've never used them so I cant even measure them. ( I should note I acquired a couple of mechanical tension meters when I worked as technician. They were designed testing spring tensions and they work well enough for measuring checking string tension)

 

My guess is the large core strings are designed to have the same overall tension as normal gauged strings tuned to concert pitch so you don't have to tweak your truss when you use them for lower tunings.

 

The scale length and alloys used for strings will influence tensions but I'm not going to bother expanding on that topic now. There's already another thread that went into detail on that recently and I don't see the need to be redundant. As it is, my opinions draw enough cheap shots from people who know all the answers so I apologize for having to explain things that are easily found on line.

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Oh kay..... My intent wasn't to belittle you, or cause others to jump on the bandwagon denouncing your claims. The 200lbs for GUITAR, not bass, since bass wasn't mentioned, was based on my experiences and past working on guitars. And, the phrase I used, about the one string at a time theory, was "I BELIEVE..." That is NOT belittling you or your experience, but a personal belief based on my experience. As for an apology, why would I expect one, from someone who has the same, if opposite, belief that I do?

 

And, getting back to the original point of the thread.... Takes me about 15 minutes for a standard string changing, unless it's a Bigsby style or the dreaded Floyd. then between a half and hour to an hour. ( I REALLY hate Floyds!)

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Why do you begrudge others having experience or wisdom? Do you expect me to apologize for having some experience on topics I post? If so I say that's ridiculous. String tension is kindergarten stuff anyone can verify on line.

 

If you're too lazy to verify it yourself, you can at least refrain back bighting people who do it for you. If you're intentions are to build a consensus against me because you have a personal grudge, I suggest an easier method. All you have to do is wait till I truly have screwed up before you jump in there and bust my chops. I don't mind you beating up on me if it was to get that stupid chip off your shoulder. In the mean time grow up and stop stalking people.

 

 

1. I have seen no indication of wisdom. Are you saying you are wise?

2. Try reading before you post. Before your last message I actually posted a link to the dadarrio site with the string tension chart. I verified it before you did.

3. When people are talking about changing 6 strings they are not usually talking about Bass.

4. When you put stuff up that is wrong or exaggerated people may well pull you on it.

5. Stalking? Dont flatter yourself, I couldnt give a stuff about you.

6. When you are caught out as wrong you ignore it or just talk about another random subject.

7. You are condescending in the extreme and totally up your own arse.

8. You post some excellent stuff but then go off into la la land and make wild exaggerations.

9. Taking all the strings off WILL NOT damage your guitar or necessitate a Truss Rod adjustment.

10. From other thread while were at it - NOBODY - even someone as God like as you can Tune 2 guitars with NO Microtonal variations across the board.

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9. Taking all the strings off WILL NOT damage your guitar or necessitate a Truss Rod adjustment.

I'll skip most of your list because your poor attitude is self evident. I will attempt give you the benefit of the doubt and suggest you have a reading comprehension issue, but I have a hard time not calling you out when you lie. I don't know whether the lie is intentional or not but you go too far when you suggest I said this and I have no tolerance for lies and liars.

 

I explained the reason why Luther's suggest changing one string at a time and you turn around and lie about what I said.

 

I DID NOT SAY IT WILL DAMAGE AN INSTRUMENT AND I DIDNT SAY IT WOULD REQUIRE A TRUSS ADJUSTMENT.

 

This is exactly why I defend what I wrote. You either misinterpret what I say, or you intentionally make up lies. I Don't know what your problem is but I have no tolerance for people who cant tell the truth. All I did was explain how and why it can take longer for a thin neck to settle back in and stop going out of tune when you remove all the strings.

 

I ALSO said in that same statement, thicker or higher quality necks may not see any change at all removing all strings. I truly don't see how I can apologize for making those statements and I cant be responsible for your inability to understand American English.

 

10. From other thread while were at it - NOBODY - even someone as God like as you can Tune 2 guitars with NO

Microtonal variations across the board.

 

This is another great example being so affixed on finding a gotcha moment you fail to understand the actual post. Your statement is as lame as it gets. You know exactly what I was comparing yet you still think its ok to pull a single sentence out of a context an attempt to spin it to mean something else. I suggest you leave those kinds of deceitful tactics to professional spin doctors who know how to make people believe their lies.

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I'll skip most of your list because your poor attitude is self evident. I will attempt give you the benefit of the doubt and suggest you have a reading comprehension issue, but I have a hard time not calling you out when you lie. I don't know whether the lie is intentional or not but you go too far when you suggest I said this and I have no tolerance for lies and liars.

 

I explained the reason why Luther's suggest changing one string at a time and you turn around and lie about what I said.

 

I DID NOT SAY IT WILL DAMAGE AN INSTRUMENT AND I DIDNT SAY IT WOULD REQUIRE A TRUSS ADJUSTMENT.

 

This is exactly why I defend what I wrote. You either misinterpret what I say, or you intentionally make up lies. I Don't know what your problem is but I have no tolerance for people who cant tell the truth. All I did was explain how and why it can take longer for a thin neck to settle back in and stop going out of tune when you remove all the strings.

 

I ALSO said in that same statement, thicker or higher quality necks may not see any change at all removing all strings. I truly don't see how I can apologize for making those statements and I cant be responsible for your inability to understand American English.

 

 

 

This is another great example being so affixed on finding a gotcha moment you fail to understand the actual post. Your statement is as lame as it gets. You know exactly what I was comparing yet you still think its ok to pull a single sentence out of a context an attempt to spin it to mean something else. I suggest you leave those kinds of deceitful tactics to professional spin doctors who know how to make people believe their lies.

I refer you to point 6 above.

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Did an acoustic/electric for a friend on the weekend. Just over 30 minutes for a string change, tighten the jack, adjust the truss rod, knock back the fret sprout, clean and condition the fingerboard, lower the bridge saddle. Not in that order. :)

 

Yep...a string change is a great time for some spring cleaning! Routine maintenance like any other beloved equipement.

 

Regarding this "tension" thing- I guess I subscribe to the "don't stress your instrument" theory. I've never put any torque or laser measurements on it- it sort of makes sense.

 

So I change one string at a time- being sure to do SOME cleaning. But sometimes I will take them all off to get a thorough advanced clean. All the nooks and crannies can be hard to get to with 5 strings on. I kinda go easy on it though I don't just cut them all off at once.

 

just my 1 cent.

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. . . Regarding this "tension" thing- I guess I subscribe to the "don't stress your instrument" theory. . . it sort of makes sense.

 

So I change one string at a time- being sure to do SOME cleaning. But sometimes I will take them all off to get a thorough advanced clean. . . .

I only take all the strings off when I'm doing a setup or some other work on a guitar. For example, I took all the strings off my Strat when I replaced the pickguard (obviously). It's an excellent time to polish the frets and do some general cleaning up, especially when you first get a used instrument. Normal string changes, no.

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For the record I always take all of the strings off before putting the new ones on, always have.

 

Once they're off I give the truss rod a tiny bit of tightening, then loosen it back to just a hair of relief once the new strings are tuned to pitch. I read that in a Dan Erlewine column a lifetime ago. Supposedly puts the neck into compression slightly differently. Possibly unicorn poop, but it's a habit now.

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By the way...for any Floyd users that have trouble with string changes....for many years now I have put a block under the back of the floyd so it doesn't tilt back. It makes it a little easier to tune back in.

 

I use a plastic flat cigarette lighter, but they actually make a widget...just my luck a day late and a dollar short.

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One of my Strats has locking tuners and it just takes a couple minutes on that....very fast.....wire cutters and needle nose pliers speed things up....tuning and stretching the strings takes a little additional time......

 

On my guitars without locking tuners, I use a speed winder which speeds things up

 

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So, Which type of guitar strings breaks too much electric guitar or an acoustic guitar actually I recently buy an electric acoustic guitar and I am thinking to which type of string should I use.

 

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I am not sure what the link is....is that where you bought your acoustic?

 

Regarding string breaks....it's most often your guitar rather than the strings. Usually a sharp edge or burr on the bridge will cause breaks. If you have trouble with breaking strings I'd start there rather than change manufacturer.

 

The "type" of string is a personal preference, and most manufacturer's will describe their strings as a guideline. "bright" "mellow". "heavy" "light". There are many factors involved, type of woods and construction, your pick and/or fingers, your style...strumming or lead. Wouldn't hurt to sort the selection by "most popular" and start there.

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Typically, I can change and tune all six, one at a time, within 25-30min on a Floyd. I normally use the same brand and gauge because I hate having to reset the Floyd. Sometimes I cut them, normally only at a show or ifi break one at practice. I'm not that concerned with break angle, locking nut, though I do try and get three wraps on all tuners. Inserting from the tuner to the bridge speeds things up also. DR Pure Blues seem to require about the least amount of stretching and have superb longevity. I know other strings proclaim 'no stretching/prestretced/whatever' but my experience with these has been that they don't last long.

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