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Freeman Keller

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Freeman Keller last won the day on October 5 2016

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About Freeman Keller

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  1. Katopp, I'm not really around. Once in a while I look in to see if anything has changed here and I might even comment if I get the urge, but mostly I don't have a presence on this forum. I did do the saw off the neck and convert to bolt on on my personal Yamaha and that made it very playable again. Its not for the faint of heart. Sometimes forumite CTGull swears that he can get Yamaha necks off and I think one of the keys to this is angling the hole for the steam tube to better hit the very small void in the dovetail - I tried to steam mine off and it would move but its possible th
  2. The original Sick Guitar threads are long gone - links to photos are broken and I've actually moved quite a bit forward in my approach to setup. Its still based on the idea of measuring everything before doing anything (the first of the old threads), then how to approach making it right. I have almost no activity on HC any more but I did do a setup thread at another forum. Hope this helps https://www.tdpri.com/threads/basic-setup.952636/
  3. I have many of the old threads that I started back when I was active at HCAG, including this one. Unfortunately, it no longer works. https://www.harmonycentral.com/t5/Acoustic-Guitars/Yamaha-neck-reset/m-p/34749697#M571501 I probably wouldn't be very good anyway because I used to use Photobucket for hosting pictures and I've given up on them too. The process is simple, loosen the fretboard extension as normal (heat and a couple of pallet knives, watch out for the truss rod). Saw thru the tenon with a very thin blade saw - a gents or Japanese saw. Be careful as you approach
  4. Daddy, you and I both know the OP isn't coming back which makes me wonder why I wasted my time. I have contact information for CTG that I could pass on to him and a whole bunch of pictures of just exactly how I did my cut off neck reset (I even did a HCAG thread that I could link). However I think I'll just crawl back in my hole and try to ignore this place once again.
  5. I build and repair guitars. I am capable of doing correct neck resets and I do them whenever possible. I have a 1969 FG-150 that was my first guitar, I love it and I played the heck out of it. When if finally needed a reset bad enough I tried the conventional method and the neck wouldn't budge. I sawed it off, converted to bolted butt joint and set the angle. I continue to play and enjoy that old guitar and it will outlive me. Remember that Taylors NT joint is basically a fancy bolted butt joint and that the A&L guitars all have simple versions of that joint. Also, forumit
  6. I was given a Tonerite. I gave it away. You don't hear much about them anymore, do you?
  7. Tony, I just stumbled on this and have a few comments. First, for what its worth, my background. I used to be very active at HC but with the general state of the forum I don't come around much any more. I am a hobby builder with a total of 26 guitars to date - a mixture of acoustic and electrics, and a variety of neck construction methods. I'm currently somewhat active at the building subforums at TDPRI, and I recently wrote a thread about thinking about neck geometry. You might find this helpful https://www.tdpri.com/threads/building-for-playability.991659/ There are a va
  8. Breaking news. I was playing the Guild last night, my wife looked up from her reading and asked "what guitar is that?". "Larry's 12 string", I said, "I reglued the bridge for him". "Doesn't sound as good as yours" she said and went back to her reading. The lesson, as always, is to play before you buy.
  9. Neal, you are capable of building a 12 string. That way you could make exactly what you want for the strings and tunings you plan to use and the sound you hear in your head. I currently own three acoustic twelves, two of which I built, and they are very different guitars. Fwiw - I used to recommend the Seagull S12 as a pretty good bang for the buck 12 string and I happen to like all of Taylor's twelves, including the 150e. Just reglued the bridge on a nice little MIC Guild (don't remember the model, its in the shop and I could go look at it), again, nice playing guitar - seems happ
  10. I've never built an SG copy but there is no reason not to. They are pretty simple, kind of Gibson's answer to the tele. Th SG stands for "standard guitar". There were a variety of different versions of the SG over the years, they changed a lot in the neck pocket area (some are notoriously weak there). I actually think an SG is a relatively poor choice for a custom unless you want to duplicate an icon guitar (maybe the Fool?). Otherwise I consider them very plain - you never see fancy woods or shapes or inlays. Just a standard guitar. If that is the guitar the OP really w
  11. TTF, I have built a few custom guitars - a couple of them for forumites here. One was a left handed ES335 clone, I have also built variations on LP's, tele's, hollow bodies, archtops and a variety of acoustics. Problem is I am not really looking for a commission right now
  12. My son thought he would like a double neck
  13. I've run a Paul Norman carbon fiber biscuit in my Duolian since 2009. Lighter than maple, intonation is fine for the combination slide/fretted play. Paul has sold a variety of compensated saddles for at least that long. My tricone has a normal Tee bridge, my spider has a spider bridge.
  14. The choice of strings for your resonator should depend on how you want to tune it, how you want to play it and its setup. I have three resonators, I typically tune them down to open D or G and I play a mixture of slide and fretted. I run the action just a touch higher than my other acoustics, but they still play reasonably easy. One of my guitars is a wooden tricone that I built, the others are an old spider and a metal bodied biscuit. Based on all of that, I normally string with mediums and usually bump the first string up to an 14 or so. I often run an unwound third - that gets
  15. I need to chime in here too. The open note and the 12th fret harmonic will always be in tune by definition. Its the fretted 12th fret note and the harmonic that need to be in tune. And of course turning the truss rod isn't how you set the action. I lower the pickups as much as possible, do all the action settings in order (since they affect intonation), then once the action is perfect, set the intonation. After that is done bring the pickups up and balance them. I wrote this for another forum, it might be helpful as you are trying to learn how to do setups https://www.t
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