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Freeman Keller

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Freeman Keller last won the day on October 5 2016

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About Freeman Keller

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  1. https://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Necks/faq2.aspx I you happen to be buying a roasted neck from Warmoth heed their warnings about tuner holes. Also Ken Warmoth says he expects the end user of their necks to dress the frets altho he knows most people don't.
  2. The simple answer is that a lap steel is an electric guitar, it makes its sound by the strings moving thru a magnetic field. A "dobro" is an acoustic guitar, it makes its sound by the cone moving air. Various kinds of pickups can be added to a "dobro" to amplify it - some are more true to the cone sound.
  3. Since the definition of "luthier" varies my suggestion is to take the guitar and all of the information you can find about the sustainer (they had pretty good instructions when I installed mine) to the person who might do the work and get an estimate. Installing the sustainer will probably involve routing the body which might mean some finish touch up. You need room for both the PCB and the battery (and make the access to the battery easy). There is substantial wiring in addition to the pickups that you want changed. I made new pick guards and a back panel cover and had them engrav
  4. As I recall I charged the guy for ten hours of labor plus some parts. We made new front and back covers and some other stuff - he didn't blink when I handed the invoice. I had to route the guitar to fit the pcb and batteries, I believe Sustainiac makes some models for strats that fit in the trem cavity. And for what it is worth, I wouldn't trust GC to change my strings.
  5. Please understand that installing a Sustainiac is not a trivial modification. I put one in a flying vee for a guy - it was a major project. Would I trust Guitar Center to do this? Absolutely not.
  6. Hi Hilmarg. My current go to guitar is a western red cedar over cocobolo OM. Coco is an absolute stunning tonewood but its somewhat problematic to work with. It is related to rosewood and has that "rosewood" sound, whatever that means. I think the cedar top on mine has more to do with the voice than anything else.
  7. A million years ago when I did the great HCAG String Test I took two of my favorite (and very different guitars) and did what I suggest you do. I bought two sets of the same gauge uncoated string from the same manufacturer and put them on one guitar, played it and recorded it. Most of the recording was simple stuff - open strings, a few chords, a coupe of slides. I did the same with the second set of strings on the other guitar. I recorded them both, using the same recorder with the same settings. Then I switched them (same scale guitars) and did it again. Then I repeated with the
  8. I will add one more thing to the above. If you want to experiment with string tension if you down tune one semi tone and capo at the first fret you will be approximately the same tension as a standard string set one size below what you on your guitar. If you tune down two semi tones and capo at 2 it will be approximately two standard sets below yours. If you tune up one semi tone (you won't be able to capo) you will be at the tension of a standard set one size above yours. Lets say you have a set of lights (12's) on your guitar. One step down and capoed at 1 will still be E standard
  9. There are three things that influence string selection 1 - compostion, the type of material the string is made out of. Industry names are Phosphor Bronze, 80/20 (which is a composition ratio) and lots of other things. The two biggies are PB and 80/20. The have a slight but detectable difference in sound that can be used to taylor the voice of your guitar - many people think PB are more "mellow" while 80/20 are "bright" (be warned that opinions vary and even manufacturers don't agree). Get a set of each, try them out, make up your own mind 3 - I put this second tho its really
  10. This might help. Look at post #5. Then look at the others to see how I measure stuff https://www.tdpri.com/threads/basic-setup.952636/ The important thing is that I evaluate the entire guitar before I touch anything. The minute you start screwing with something you affect everything else (relief is the best example). I'm going in for knee surgery tomorrow and probably won't feel like guitar discussions for a few days. Good luck
  11. That is helpful. Lets start with the neck angle. There are two ways to measure it - the easiest and most accurate is to lay a 24 inch straight edge on the fretboard so it is resting on the first and whatever high fret it wants to rest on, probably 14 in your case and see where the end is. The ideal situation is for it to be right on top of the bridge (not saddle). A guitar that is seriously dehydrated might be above the bridge, if the end of the ruler is much below the top of the bridge it needs a neck reset. Why is this? The bridge and saddle act as a little lever to rock th
  12. Lets put this in a different perspective. Anytime I approach a new guitar, whether its on my bench for some work or if I was considering buying it, I automatically check two things. I want to know if it is properly humidified - that is very simple, are fret ends sharp, is the natural doming of the top still there. Two minutes to evaluate, its either OK or not. Then I check the neck angle. I just automatically do this on every guitar. Lay the straightedge on the fretboard, look at the end - bingo, its OK or not. There is another test for neck angle which yours seems to fa
  13. OK, you really didn't do what I asked, did you? I wanted to see where the straight edge hits the bridge, I want to know what the relief is and I want to know what the action at the 12th fret is. Very simple measurements that will tell me everything about your guitar. The hump at the 14th fret is normal and is OK, its called fall away and is much more desirable than a ski jump. Unless you play your acoustics above the 14th fret don't worry about it. Shaving down a bridge is the very last resort when you decide that you can't do a reset - it dramatically weakens the saddle in the b
  14. I haven't been here in ages, happened to wander by and saw this. Before you go any farther, B, please measure everything and post the numbers. I want to know where the fret plane hits the bridge, exactly how much saddle is sticking out (a picture would help), exactly what the relief and 12 fret action measures. I'll check back.
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