Grant Harding

To the beginning?

Looks like a death trap that belongs in a museum. Just gut it and put improved modern tech inside if you're nostalgic for the look of pre-amazing PAs.

Nice marketing though. Got the brand in front of older acoustic guitarists with discretionary funds, but underestimated their street smarts. 🙂

Online reviews aren't a reliable way to judge a product. I still think they look like entry level stuff. OK for the price I guess.

There's another option that I did to an FG180 years ago. You separate the back from the sides and neck block, then reset the angle and reglue it. I had to replace the binding on the back, but those have plain black so it's easy. I will say that even after getting the action perfect and refinishing with French polish it sounded no different. It's still a loud, but uninspiring laminate top guitar. I traded it for a crib when my daughter was a baby. 😎

The Crosby Audio Bridge pins look really cheap, like poor substitutes for good ones. I'd steer clear. Think of the banner ads like a repeated warning that someone is trying to fleece you.

Sorry, I was directing that at the OP and the obvious question. 😎🎸🎸🎸

While we're at it, do you think if I tune my acoustic guitar down 12 half steps will it sound the same as an acoustic bass? Should I move from 8's to 9's to fatten the tonez?

I'm still on cork-sniffer duty.

My brother has one and it's definitely a gimmick. If you want your acoustic electric to be a little bit amplified and WAY heavier it might be for you. It's a cool concept, but not really useful IMO.

My experience has been that problems are caused equally by idiot/lazy business people and a lack of common sense and ability/desire to listen by technical people.

Maton is a great Aussie brand, as are Cole Clark http://coleclarkguitars.com I've got a great Maton uke, but the familiarity of the D-28 sound is really what I'm after.

I agree about buying new, especially with acoustics, but these have been made for so long that there are bound to be decent used ones bouncing around. If they've made any fundamental design improvements to the model I'd want those, in case the old ones didn't have truss rods, etc. I'm fine with changing the nut, saddle, frets, etc, but wouldn't want one that needs a neck reset.

How were you able to run at 110 before you converted the voltage?

How did you change the voltage?