daddymack

That was the issue way back when, but newer units have managed to 'stretch' the inherent delay times. The original Carbon Copy, IIRC was only good up to ~300ms; newer [Dunlop] units will go up to 600ms. I also had an issue with not being able to remove the dry signal completely..which was why I traded it out. I have for many years [since 1988] used a combination of analog delay [for tone and grit] and digital delay [for longer that 500ms]. My Anasounds actually will go to 600ms, so on that pedalboard, the digital delay is used for slapback, and the Utopia handles the 'deep' stuff.

I own a number of delays, both analog and digital. I agree that the Boss digital delays are 'too clean' sounding, but some people look for exactly that. I was a tube EchoPlex user way back when, and that has 'colored' my approach to delays. That said, I seriously doubt you will find a new digital delay under $250 that will make you happy [because most are designed to not color the sound, just a pristine recreation]....but...analog delays may be the sound you are looking for, and there are a number of inexpensive [sub $250] options, including the TC echobrain, Ibanez Echo Shifter, JHS Panther Cub [used], Way Huge Supa-Puss [none of which I personally have tried but I know people who use them], the EHX Memory Man, the MXR Carbon Copy [which I used to own] and the GFS 'Pro Delay' [which I do own]...and more. My current fave is my Anasounds Utopia delay, which gets very close to the old 'tape' sound, while having a clarity typically 'buried' in tape delays...these can be found used in your price range... I also own a number of great digital delays as well, but the prices are above your threshold... Do a search on 'analog delay pedals'...there is a wealth of info out there. Pick up one of these units and see if they get that 'tone' you are after.

YAY, Notes! Glad you and Leilani are getting booked...

Congrats...but $250 [and months] to replace a resistor? Fender had a similar problem with the SuperChamp XD. I replaced and 'elevated' the resistor, and voila!

another option is to find something like a Little Martin or a Baby Taylor. These tend to be brighter, mid-range punchy, minimal [but adequate] bass response...if you can handle the shorter scale...

^ this...but not a big deal to pre-drill some new screw holes. You night have to trim a little bit of the pickguard to slip it under the neck as well [yes, I've done this type of mod for other people on Squier Affinitys and some of the 'new' Chinese made Strat copies]. But I would guess you will see more output, better all around tone and less noise [I'm willing to bet the Stagg has cheap ceramic p-ups, dime-size pots and is unshielded], so what do you have to lose?

Dan, It is all about comfort and preference, but the idea of putting in some details and getting an algorithm to spit out the perfect guitar for you is not going to happen anytime soon. You might consider finding a local qualified luthier and have a fully custom model made.

That is an issue with which we all contend...what is adequate back-up? There has to be a tipping point on redundancy, especially for FX units. But to clarify...are you concerned that on a gig it would fail? You would carry a second unit on a gig 'just in case'? If you bought a new unit, don't you think ultimately you would relegate the older unit to the back-up slot? Now for the reality check...has your VL ever failed? Mine has not. The power supply? Yes, and I have a replacement [$19.99]. But...I did purchase a smaller TC H1 harmonizer [~$140] as a 'back-up' [really more of a 'lightweight alternative']...and there are times I just stare at it and go...why don't I sell this? You can get a TC VoiceLivePlay for ~$250...which I think is a reasonable deal...in fact Boss, Roland, E-H, Zoom and others have new units in that price range.

well...the OP has been back....and not commented on any of our suggestions....so fine, buy a Yamaha or a Harley Benton...

Actually the FSUs were around in the early/mid sixties....I've worked on a couple of old White Falcons [great guitars, wouldn't own one] and I don't think the FSU was all they claimed, but yes, the fork vibrates. For those who have never seen one: https://reverb.com/item/19511541-gretsch-tuning-fork-bridge-floating-sound-unit-viking-white-falcon-1960-s-vintage-usa-gold-1964-rare here's a video on the Viking...note: the last image on the 'preroll' is exactly my Magnatone lapsteel....and case...😎

Honestly, the name on the headstock doesn't matter. Guitars will bond with you if the symbiosis is there. I have essentially the same D'Angelico DC, and I find it difficult to get comfortable playing it sitting down. Standing, fine, but sitting feels awkward. I have my 'custom-made' 'Gretsch' [the headstock is my avatar], which feels fine sitting, but oversized when I'm standing. I eschewed Telecasters for many years, then I bought one [a cheap copy] as a 'beater' for the jam-host gig I was doing. And once I did some things to it, I was surprised at the simplicity yet elegance of capability. I now also own a Fender Thinline Tele...its the only guitar model I have duplicate versions. the JF-1 is a solid daily gigger 335 style. Do you notice the altered neck angle? That was their big 'claim' on their design. They run, what? $400? I have heard some guys moan about the pickups not having enough 'fat', but at that price? Replace them if you don't like'em.

£ 400 It depends on how frequently he records. I used to [when I only had one acoustic] record all the regular guitar parts, and then restring, do the N-T parts, and then restring again...a set of 12strings costs ~$12 [you can buy a lot of 12 string sets for $565/£400]. Because the guitar was restrung just for 'cowboy chords', for the most part, I didn't bother adjusting the truss, etc. For me it was a simple and inexpensive solution that really didn't cost much in $, time or labor. If the OP wants to get a second guitar to keep in N-T, that is his decision. I always felt, similar to your comment, that a guitar dedicated to N-T was a one trick pony of little value except recording.

Obsolescence is in the eye of the beholder. Is a Big Muff 'obsolete'? Is the Phase 90 'obsolete'? Is the Ross Compressor 'obsolete'? Just because there are newer versions has more geegaws, does that mean the older one is useless? To be honest, I use about 1/20th of what my harmonizers can do...because I don't need it, but it does do what I want it to do...why replace it?

Kris, from what you are asking...have you tried 'Nashville tuning'? It will cost you a lot less than £ 400...

that is a great unit, but hard to find used, and 'new' it runs above the OPs budget.... LD Systems Maui line and the Harbinger Array are worth a look...

I faced this issue a number of years ago...and now I have three sets of powered speakers [all Alto...lower power than the 'big names' but clear and easy to handle] and a Fishman SoloAmp [the older version, the newer one has more wattage]...the Fishman, aka the Fish-stick, was my first shot at a solo/duo PA...it is great for small venues and small outdoor gigs. It is optimized for vocal/guitar, but only has 2 channels, and not much bottom end if you want to pump techno on your breaks But larger outdoor gigs and duo work got me into 2 powered 10" speakers and a little Yamaha 4 channel mixer.. I then decided I needed monitoring, and bought a pair of powered 8"...these are actually very good for some outdoor work as well, but woefully weak for bass. Then, as I prepared to expand my solo work early last year [and branch into duo and later a full combo[, I added a pair of powered 15" and airlift stands....and then the pandemic hit. You should not need two linear arrays...never trust salespeople! For a duo, you are looking at 2 instruments and 2 mics, plus a channel for 'break music' off your phone or iPad. You really do not need 1400 watts [oh, I'm sure the 'clean headroom nazis' will be in here shortly😜]; 600-1000 watts is more than enough. Find two powered 10" [or 12"] speakers with ~500W each...actually 300W each is probably plenty [that is what I run]. A good 6 channel mixer [Allen and Heath, Yamaha, Mackie, etc] with some DSP fx [reverb and maybe some chorus for the guitars], 2 cables, 2 stands and there you are. You should be able to assemble a rig like that for under $1000...much less if you buy used. Some of the newer linear arrays have excellent mixing capabilities...and some do not.

well, now new is out of the question.... so about $400 [USD]/350€... plus VAT, then? Yeah, in that range you are going to either end up with a no-name, or well-used....

I do not believe there is a 'patent', per se. There are few of copies of the Casino [Epiphone's take on the Gibson ES-330], mainly due to the inherent limitations that a thin hollowbody with single coil pick-ups engenders, which is feedback. The Casino requires a specific controlled level of volume...which dampens many players' enthusiasm. The basic Casino is not that expensive in the US [~650 USD], and, IIRC, they are being made in China, so I can't tell you why they are over-priced in Europe/UK. What is your price range? You might find that an Epi Wild Kat will get you very close to the Casino tone. They run ~500 USD. FWIW, I have a Fender Tele Thinline w/P-90s, and no, it is not the same thing as a full hollow, or even a semi hollow with P-90s, but it does have it's own sound.

and the Flintstones, too...😉

I think it unlikely your neighbor the EE can 'translate' it, unless he has x-ray vision or it is a 'non-sandwich'[multilevel circuits] PCB. If the PCB is strictly top/bottom etched, then even you could do it!

fine...good luck.... hint: south start...

ksl...I'm not sure exactly what you are trying to do here...are you eliminating the dpdt switch in favor of a push pull pot as the selector between coils?? I don't think that will get you what you want...but if you are using the push pull to essentially perform the same function as the switch, selecting north or south,...what is the point?

or are you looking for a vocal harmonizer?

Um...are you re-using old strings? I'm with bp...what bass, pickups, strings? What is the gauge difference between the strings you have on now with the ones you removed? If the poles are adjustable on the p-up, have you tried adjusting the height?

little rectangular tinfoil hats?