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About Mr.Grumpy

  • Birthday 01/01/1962


  • Location
    Dallas, Texas USA


  • Interests
    guitar, elecrtronics, bicycling

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  1. Who knows? Looks like a homemade pedal, possibly a re-house of a commercially-made pedals. Based on the "Fuzz" "Sweep" and rotary selector and name, it might be an envelope filter ('auto-wah') with fuzz. A "Sitar" pedal, bleah. Danelectro made a Sitar pedal. This pedal looks home-made too, is "Burford Electronics" a real pedal company? Clearly a home-made clone of the "Zen Drive", a famous boutique overdrive known for it's smooth and transparent OD tones. Probably a kit-built clone. This one looks like a commercially-made pedal, from a small "boutique" maker. The only knob I can make out is labeled "Attack", so possibly a vintage style fuzz pedal. "Dirty Little Secret" is an amp-type overdrive pedal sold by boutique pedal company Caitlinbread. I don't think this is that pedal, it looks to me like an OD/Distortion pedal built from a kit from one of the two big kit makers, BYOC or GGG. Looks like a Joyo pedal of some kind, or possibly a "clone kit" from one of the companies I mentioned above. Probably another OD pedal... Based on the controls, it's most likely a compressor. Looks to be a commercially-made boutique pedal. With most pedals it's pretty apparent what they do when they're plugged in and played through... To find out what's really going on, you'll need to at least open up the back and look at the circuit board, and if possible, a look at the component side of the circuit board, and that would probably answer any question as to whether these are commercial pedals that have been put in new or "redecorated" enclosures, or if these are built from kits, perfboard, whatever. IF the 'Shape Shifter' and 'bar code' compressor are commercial products, they may have some value. But they could be home-made pedals too, just with better graphics. Presuming the other pedals are either kits or DIY rehouses, those pedals don't really have any collectible value. Search google, Reverb and this place: https://www.effectsdatabase.com/#
  2. Definitely no tubes. The battery is only to maintain the memory chip that holds your presets. If the internal battery died, you would lose any custom presets you programmed. Pretty sure it wouldn't affect the audio quality. There's many different kinds of noise, each with their own source. There's electric hum ("mains hum" in England) and it's close cousin, buzz. This noise is always at the frequency of your local electric power. There's "white" noise, which is a hissing or whooshing sound, especially common with high gain setups. Of course, high gain makes any noise picked up by your guitar much worse. Are you using the noise gate or hum cancelling features? A digital modeling amp like this is going to be unfriendly to any DIY repair attempts. The most I would attempt would be to spray the smallest possible spritz of De-Ox-Id pot cleaner/lube, but only if: It's an "unsealed" pot. If it's a sealed pot, then the only avenue to get cleaner in is to spray down the pot shaft and sometimes works but then a bunch of crud drips out of the pot and on to the circuit board. I would contact Line6 and see if they have a certified repair center near you. Or, consider that 15 years is a pretty good run and consider upgrading - modeling technology has improved greatly, and there's a good selection of modeling amps out there from Line 6, Fender, Roland/Boss and others.
  3. The shunt grounds the input when nothing is plugged in; it's to prevent open-circuit hum when nothing's plugged into the amp.
  4. They make USB HUBS, which allow you to connect different USB peripheral devices to a single USB port on a computer. They wouldn't work to connect to computers though, and I wouldn't even attempt it. To do what you are wanting to do will almost certainly require a manual switch; I wasn't aware that such a box existed until I did a web search, but it does. It specifically mentions that it's intended for your application: sharing the same peripheral between two PCs (or Macs in your case). https://www.showmecables.com/usb-manual-button-switch-box-2-way?gclid=Cj0KCQjw-NaJBhDsARIsAAja6dPBQWfn45AX5tcc9v1gnL3RKA6VnkaX1d0BIb4SzffrD8u4rpr0T5EaAnuwEALw_wcB
  5. So I bought some wedge cut sound absorbtion foam tiles from the giant "A" mail order place. Surprisingly cheap, about $24 for twelve 1' x 1' (30 cm x 30 cm) tiles that are alledgedly 2" thick (about 50mm). A rather small box arrived, this can't be them, can it? I can hear stuff shaking inside the box loose. Open it up, and it looks like two thick jumbo sized mouse pads that have been shrink-wrapped in clear plastic film. Two bundles less than two inches thick. I'm a little confused at this point, but get out my pocket knife and begin cutting away the shrink wrap... OH!! The foam tiles have been tightly compressed and then shrink wrapped. Each bundle is 12 tiles. Unfortunately, one half of one dozen tiles were apparently shrink-wrapped too quickly after coming out of the foam-making machine; those tiles did not "un-compress" to their normal size. I was able to get some of these prematurely-squished tiles to "fluff up" by using my fingers to lift up the peaks of the wedges, but they're still not at their full thickness. I don't want to deal with returns, so I'll probably just slap these thin ones up in less critical places. Getting "normal" foam tiles like Auralex shipped is expensive because the product is very bulky.
  6. This has been discussed ad nauseum. Where have you been? This place (Harmony Central in general, not just the bass sub-forum) has been a ghost town for several years. I think it was about 10 (?) or so years ago that there was an "extended outage" of the forum due to new forum software being implemented. Then several other forum shutdowns that lasted days at a time. Between those and the rise of Facebook, participation here fell off a cliff. There have been some ownership changes too, it was recently owned by Gibson, not I believe it's owned by Sweetwater Music. Forum founder Craig Anderton and longtime head honcho/moderator Phil have departed. For bass guitar/upright bass forum-ing, I'd recommend Talkbass; they're still pretty active. Some of the other forums seem to have small (very small) groups of regulars that hang out.
  7. It's only one "m": game-if-i-cation. I didn't know either, so I did a g-search: https://www.google.com/search?q=gamification+definition&oq=gamification&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0i131i433i512j0i433i512j0i512l4j69i60.5219j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
  8. Probably a STEREO amp with STEREO chorus!!! Probably has a glorious clean tone.
  9. I wonder if these one-question-and-never-return "posters" are search engine "bots" or something. Maybe just some poor intern at MXR's "social media" team trying to gauge name recognition for their products. Besides EVERYONE knows the best ever boost ever is the GOLD HORSEY KLON! For at least a couple of years, one of our local (Dallas, TX) Guitar Centers had a gold Klon pedal in their used effect display case, priced somewhere around $3,500 as I recall. It's not listed in GC's used gear database, so maybe it sold. Hi, Jodi!!
  10. I built about a half dozen DIY sound absorption panels for my home studio. I used 1 x 4 lumber to make rectangular frames 48" tall by 16" wide, just the right size to go around batts of 3 inch thick "Roxul" mineral wool insulation. Then I covered the exposed surface of the mineral wool with a layer of polyester quilt batting, then covered the whole mess with gray open weave burlap fabric from a craft store. The individual materials aren't too expensive, but with all the materials needed, it adds up quick. I also bought a cheap pneumatic stapler for attaching the fabric to the frame, which was worth the $25 cost. The best stuff to use is rigid mineral wool or fiberglass insulation board, but it's mostly a commercial product so it isn't sold in home improvement stores. You can order it and have it shipped to you, but because it's so bulky, the freight adds a lot to the cost. By the way, it's almost impossible to "soundproof" a room so that a band playing inside can't be heard outside. What you want is to deaden the flutter echoes, ringing and resonances inside to minimize the weird effects especially on bass frequencies.
  11. "All generalizations are false, including this one."
  12. For audio, a Mackie "Big Knob" interface; for MIDI, I just bought a Roland/Edirol "UM-1" , a typical USB dongle type with a the two MIDI plugs on the end of skinny wires. I was previously using a Roland UM-3, which has 3 sets of MIDI ins and outs, but it was very finicky to use with Reaper. It's not that I'm a big user of virtual synths or anything like that, but even a little control surface interface like the Korg NanoKontrol that I somethimes use to control Reaper is actually a USB/MIDI device. My SoundCanvas also uses USB to support two MIDI streams, so I suppose that counts as two MIDI devices. I've read that Windows 7 still has "MIDI mapper" buried in the system but it's parameters are not viewable or adjustable, so I had to download and install some "MIDI configurator" freeware. There seems to be a hard limit on the number or MIDI streams/connections that Reaper will support. I've been using Reaper for at least 3 years, and there's still TONS of stuff left for me to learn.
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