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Mr.Grumpy

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About Mr.Grumpy

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  • Birthday 01/01/1962

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    Dallas, Texas USA

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  • Interests
    guitar, elecrtronics, bicycling

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  1. Of course it's possible to repair your TS9, it's just not often done because it's not economical to have a professional technician fix it. But the circuits are reasonably simple and very well documented. And the PCB is probably a simple single sided type and most likely it also uses DIY friendly through-hole components. A lot of the troubleshooting could be done with VOM, but you could get in a situation that requires a signal tracer to troubleshoot. The TS-9 uses electronic bypass so the switch is a single pole momentary switch, no audio signal passes through the footswitch. The switch
  2. I used part of my first stimulus check to buy a "cheap" fretless bass. A local mom & pop store had a Squier Jazz bass for the same price ($400) the big box music store sells it! Mine is a lined fretless with sunburst body and some kind of brown wood for the fingerboard. The build quality is excellent, I can't find any flaws in the fit or finish. Contrary to my expectations, the bass came with roundwounds, I played it that way for a week or so but then went and bought a set of flatwound strings - D'addario Chromes. My fretted basses have roundwounds, I wanted something different for this b
  3. Their Facebook page said the data center they use was load-testing a backup generator, and that somehow caused a fire to break out. Never mind the fact the data centers (at least the ones I've been in) have extensive, automatic fire-suppression systems that use Halon or CO2, but for some reason the local fire department hosed the data center down with water. I only hang out there 'cause this place is a ghost town.
  4. Update, 4/9/21, about 7 pm CDT, TalkBass is back online and seems to be running more or less normally. 4/09/2021: Edited the subject line for improved truthiness and less trolly-ness. :-) Rest in Peace, fellow music related forum. It's actually a nice forum, even though they're fairly strict about moderating posts and users. The sub forums where I tend to hang out (Amps & Cabs, Pickups & Electronics, Recording Gear) have decent traffic. Here's hoping they get their operation back online soon.
  5. Sound like an issue with the electronic bypass, which is pretty rare, in my experience. Unless you have a sentimental attachment to this pedal, I suggest you just get a new one. They're like Dixie cups!
  6. What Daddymack said..." I wouldn't bother." Re-angling the neck even by a couple of degrees is going to change the feel of playing the guitar, and will create other weirdness like the neck pickup being too close to the strings and the bridge pickup being too far away, or at least will require other steps to put the pickups in their proper position. If you have a hankerin' for a Strat style body with tune-o-matic bridge, both Schecter and ESP make Fender-style guitars with TOM style bridges. They seem to be oriented to metal players, they always seem to be equipped with humbucking pickups
  7. I presume this is a new product, as I'd never seen it before. It's from Guitar Center's "in house" Acoustic brand. The unit is a programmable 6 loop effects controller, with six banks each with six patches in each bank, for a total of 36 total patches. As far as I know, this is the most inexpensive programmable loop switcher on the market. This is a simple, bare bones unit, so there's no capability for amp channel switching nor MIDI control of any kind. However, those are features I don't need at this time. The unit is in a heavy duty bent case made of curved steel. The stomp buttons ar
  8. It shouldn't be. The pedal will go to zero volume with the control turned all the way down, but the volume should increase gradually and smoothly all the way to maximum. The LPB-1 is probably one of the simplest production pedals on the market. It uses a single transistor, a high gain (?) 2N5088 in a voltage-divider bias scheme for stability and symetrical amplification, i.e., it's made not to distort. The volume/output control is a 100 K Ohm pot, on schematics where it's marked, it specs an "A" (audio taper) potentiometer. the other components are 4 fixed resistors, and two film caps, o
  9. That's not dust, that's the remnants of grey foam rubber used to pad the internal battery. TS-808 schematics are widely available on the web, there's no mystery how these pedals are built. HINT: the foot switch has one terminal to ground, (as your "before" picture shows!) and the red/white wire goes to a terminal #2 on the printed circuit board.
  10. The scheme you're wanting to implement is the same as "Telecaster super switch wiring." The 'super switch' is a 4 way telecaster-type blade switch that enables the neck/both parallel/both series/bridge selection. The blade-type pickup switch IS a rotary switch, just with a reduced range of rotation. So this diagram will work with a rotary switch once you figure out the common and switch terminals for each switch "wafer." Note that you'll only need to use two of the three poles. And of course the volume, tone and output jack are wired the same as a telecaster too. https://www.fralinpicku
  11. SPST, momentary, N.O. (normally open) Those switches are quite common, if you don't have electronic supply house where you live they can be purchased by mail order.
  12. Hope this isn't too late. You want a kill switch, only with a latching instead of a momentary switch. The switch contacts go between hot and ground. https://guitarelectronics.com/guitar-kill-switch-output-mute-switch/
  13. The Aria Pro ZZ model* is a sort-of (Gibson) Explorer shaped guitar, with narrower waist and pointy-er body. I remember seeing them (and the bass version) when I started playing guitar, about '82 or '83. Can't help you with the serial number of yours, try a web search for "Matsomoku" which is the Japanese company that originally made the Aria and Aria Pro II branded guitars as well as Westone, Vantage, Arbor and some other budget brands. *The model name is "ZZ" not ZZ Top, that's of course the name of a band, and I'm pretty sure Billy Gibbons never played nor endorsed the Aria ZZ. Still
  14. With a 6 position "super switch", you could have those four selections, plus neck+mid in series and mid+bridge in series, and if the middle pickup is hum cancelling in parallel they'll still hum cancel in series. BUT the high output and meaty humbucker-type tone might be overwhelming. And you could retain the strat's original style two tone control setup with a super switch.
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