Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

331 Excellent

About Mr.Grumpy

  • Rank
    Hall of Fame
  • Birthday 01/01/1962


  • Location
    Dallas, Texas USA


  • Interests
    guitar, elecrtronics, bicycling

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. It's real gold, but electroplating allows for an extremely thin coating. The internets tell me about one-tenth of a micron thick. Gold-plated connectors on computers ect. is thicker because it's functional and not cosmetic. Gold is a relatively soft metal too. The gold plated hardware seems to have fallen out of favor recently, except perhaps for pricey high-end guitars. It's not durable. I have a "Black 'n' Gold" Aria Pro CSB-450 bass where the plating's worn off. I have to say though, a Korina Explorer or Flying V wouldn't look correct to me without gold hardware.
  2. For starters you should use pot cleaner, as it has a lubricating grease that's left behind after the solvent/carrier evaporates. Plain "electronic" and contact cleaners are solvent only, and will wash out the lubricating grease from the pots. It will clean them up temporarily at best, but will likely result in quicker wear-out afterwards. If the pot is simply dirty, then a quick spritz (half second or less) should clean it up. If the scratchiness and drop outs are still occurring after cleaning, then your pots are worn out and should be replaced.
  3. This is not a logical way to think about pedals. I'll try to explain what each one of these "no sound" pedals do and how they can be used....and where I think they work best in the pedal chain. 1) Compressors. In my opinion, they are usually pointless for playing with any dirt/gain, whether from the amp or a distortion/overdrive/fuzz pedal. ALL forms of distortion clip and compress the guitar signal, somewhat evening out the volume between soft and loud, between chords and single note lines. If you put a compressor after distortion, it won't have much effect because distortion is already compressed. Any further compression is just going to take away dynamics (difference between loud and soft), and add noise. Two places a compressor is useful: 1) completely 'clean' tones, like Mark Knopfler's lead guitar tone in "Sultans of Swing" 2) Heavy compression before light OD can give a 'sweet' sustaining but not too distorted tone for lead lines. Great for 70s soft rock leads. I suspect you don't need a compressor pedal at all, but if you insist on having one, I'd put it before any drive/distortion pedals. Use it for playing clean arpeggios with some chorus dialed in... 2) Equalizers. Can go anywhere, depending on what you're wanting to do... putting EQ before distortion can really change the flavor and voicing of distorted guitar. Works great for a lead boost (cut bass and boost mids and/or treble), or can be used after a distortion pedal to shape the distorted tones. I'm too lazy to write anymore for this paragraph. 3) Sonic Maximizer. Here's what the Sonic Maximizer is and what it does: It is a side-chain treble expander. It dynamically boosts the treble of the signal based on the overall loudness of the incoming signal. Quiet signals get no treble boost, medium loudness signals get a little treble boost, loud signals get the most treble boost. (depending on the unit's settings of course) . Schematics are on the web and circuit isn't that complex, it's all analog and it's implemented with a few op-amps and a VCA chip. It does NOT "time align the bass and treble frequencies" !!! Why the manufacturer of this gizmo continues to spew this misleading and un-necessary marketing nonsense baffles me. It's also not a pre-set EQ as many seem to believe. Here's my theory on how & why it works: Sounds with more treble sound louder. I believe the Sonic Maximizer helps restore some of the apparent dynamics of signals that have been compressed. That's why it's mostly used on instruments that are commonly compressed: distorted guitars, bass guitar, drum mixes. So on distorted guitars, you get an extra blast of treble on the note attack, giving your signal more "punch" or "clairty" or whatever. Get a used rackmount version, they're super-cheap. People say over-using the effect (turning up the 'process' control too high) makes your signal shrill and fatiguing to listen to. Use with care. Sonic Maximizer goes near or at the end of your effects chain, definitely after any distortion or compression effects.
  4. NOPE, NOPE, NOPE.... That's your big clue...you replaced a single coil pickup with a humbucker. The '59 is a humbucker and is already "hum cancelling" on it's own, so you are left the single coil hum from the middle pickup, no matter how it's wound or magnetized. Any "SSH" type guitar can hum when a single coil pickup is switched on. Since most people use the #5 position than the #4, it's not a big deal for most users. Live with the hum or swap out your other pickups for humbuckers or other 'noiseless' pickups. Your guitar wiring is most likely correct as is the switch. It's possible, with a 4 pole 'super switch', to have the number 4 position be the middle pickup, and the bridge '59 with only one of the '59s coils engaged, so that the bridge and middle pickups would again be hum kinda-sorta cancelling.
  5. You can download a "demo" version of Reaper - a "Digital Audio Workstation" (recording software) for free, and it includes a number of decent plug-ins including an autotune/pitch shifter plug in that can be used to generate vocal harmonies. The full version is only $60 and doesn't have the "nag ware" window that pops up when you start the program.
  6. I had to do something similar with my Korg MicroKontrol and Reaper. Since there's no pre-programmed "setup" for the MicroKontrol, I had to go in and map each button to it's function. Yes, it's kind of a hassle, but once it's done and you've saved the configuration it loads automatically. I learned how to do it from a YouTube video, your best bet is to look for some Cubase tutorials on YouTube. A quick search for "Cubase program controller" turned up this:
  7. Gosh, I sound bitter, don't I? Yes, the new forum software works great. Phil and Dendy do a great job too. No problems there. But there's just not enough activity....not enough posters and threads and posts. Yeah, there's a small core of regulars and semi-regulars, but with so few people it just feels clique-ish. It lacks the 'critical mass' of regular users. The amp forum was totally like that. But you know what? The online "fights" and discussions and trading of insults were interesting and sometimes hilariously funny...it was 'compelling content' so I'd check the forum several times a day. I think the effects forum was like that, to a lesser degree. The EG forum was pretty mellow by comparison; at least as I recall. My first post on HC, a "how much is my amp worth?" thread was met with a couple of sarcastic responses and then silence. I stuck around anyway. I've always lurked and posted in the different sub-forums, and I don't understand the mentality of many posters here who stick to one or two of the forums. There's also the thing where I'm kind of burned out on social media. I find some users' online personas to be grating, and I'm sure there are people whom I annoy. I wish all you a healthy, prosperous and peaceful 2020.
  8. Picher, Oklahoma is also "better" now....
  9. Since you already have a recording interface DO NOT get a USB mic. The MXL 990 is supposed to be decent. (see it in action here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwCR8EggBYw) If you can buy used, the AKG Perception series can be found for less than a hundred bucks. I bought a used CAD 300 large diaphragm condenser mic with 3 switchable patterns for $40 from that big box music store because the mic didn't come with a shock mount or case. I bought an Australian-made Rode NT-1 for a hundred bucks from my local craigslist. There's tons of "mic shootouts" and so forth on YouTube.
  10. It's almost a certainty that this bass - like almost all "active" basses - has passive pickups paired to an internal preamp. True active pickups are rather rare, the most common ones being EMGs. The problem with this bass is the pickups are Yamaha OEM (Original Equipment Manufacture) are may or may not be a standard size. Measure the outside dimensions (length and width) and see if any aftermarket pickups will "drop in" - otherwise you're looking at routing out the bass body to accommodate different pickups, and expensive and non-reversible procedure. My suggestion is to try a fresh set of strings and maybe consider upgrading your bass amp. If you insist on upgrading your pickups, I hear Nordstrand makes good ones., but I have no experience with them. Here's a place to shop for pickups! The underlined bit is a web link. PICKUPS at Best Bass Gear.
  11. Mr.Grumpy

    Bugera amps

    The bugera amps that caught fire was one particular, early model. One of the internal modular connectors was undersized, and over time would get hot and melt/burn. I don't know that any amps actually caught fire. The T-50 is a newer amp so it shouldn't have this problem. And it's in a non-flammable metal case. Just use common sense and make sure the amp has adequate ventilation when it's in use.
  12. Here's a link with a more detailed (and larger) illustration. You can skip the technical stuff at the top, but just look at the "Example 2" and "Example 3" to see the difference between series and parallel wiring. You want to wire your speakers like Example 2. Amplifier output goes to the - terminal on one speaker, the + terminal on the other speaker, then a wire jumper connects the remaining - and + terminals together. https://www.amplifiedparts.com/tech-articles/speaker-impedance-power-handling-and-wiring
  13. "Is your soul for sale, or is it just for lease?" Midwest almost-made-it band, BF Trike. A former bandmate found this recording and released it in the 90s on vinyl. I believe the recordings were orignally a demo for RCA records.
  14. I haven't bothered to take my Liddle' Mesa downtown to be fixated. I ended up buying this used solid-state Marshall combo amp at my local big-box music store, just under $200. No, it's not a Valvestate nor a MOSFET amp, but it gets the job done. At least it has a genuine spring reverb, and not a Belton Brick digital reverb. I was worried it might not have enough clean headroom, but it's got plenty and it's still clean even with the gain at noon. I didn't have to turn the master volume past noon either, I could be heard clearly. I did put this on one of those slanted amp stands, that helped a lot. I get my drive sound from pedals, so clean headroom is what I need/want. Compared to a Fender type tonestack, I have to crank the bass and mids up, and back off the treble to keep it from being to shrill, but it cuts through the band mix very well. *edit* I believe it's an G80R-CD. I suppose it's 80 watts output power, reverb, and a CD input. 1 x 12 open back cabinet with an OEM Marshall speaker. I considered returning this one and exchanging it for a used 100 watt Valvestate 2x12 combo at another store, but this one is more than loud enough for my needs. And it seems pretty heavy for an SS amp.
  • Create New...