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Mr.Grumpy

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About Mr.Grumpy

  • Birthday 01/01/1962

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    Dallas, Texas USA

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    guitar, elecrtronics, bicycling

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  1. More work was done than that...the midrange control was allegedly open and was replaced, as were several of the preamp tubes. It was in the dude's shop about six weeks, I wasn't in a hurry to get it back. Once I touched base with him again, he got my amp fixed within the week. Waaay back when, I posted pictures of the charred PCB, but I can't find my old post.
  2. A typical issue with foreign-made budget guitars is that although they may look identical to the name brand guitar, often there are subtle differences in size and layout for stuff like pickguards. So your old MIM pickguard may or may not be a "drop in" installation. Very possible that the holes in the new pickguard won't line up with the old ones. You'll just have to try it and see.
  3. I have some electronics skills, but decided this time I was better taking my amp to a pro. I'm glad I did. I believe I started a thread about it about a year or two ago. The amp in question was a Mesa Studio .22 caliber, a non-EQ model in ugly-ass dirty cream tolex. These amps have a known design issue because they use a 2 watt resistor for some kind of voltage step-down, and the resistor runs hot, so that given enough time it starts to cook & char the printed circuit board itself. I called Mesa and they were friendly, aware of the issue, and assured me "their guy" (the local Mesa Authorized tech for Dallas) would be able to fix my amp. Dropped my amp off at his shop near downtown in January I had to call the guy about a month later and ask where my amp was, but he was cool about it, and said he'd fix my amp and get it to the next week, and he did. Costs for his services was around two-hundred fifty ( I bought the amp for $400), but it works and sounds better than it did when I bought it. Very pleased I spent the money, it was well worth it.
  4. Of course it's possible to repair your TS9, it's just not often done because it's not economical to have a professional technician fix it. But the circuits are reasonably simple and very well documented. And the PCB is probably a simple single sided type and most likely it also uses DIY friendly through-hole components. A lot of the troubleshooting could be done with VOM, but you could get in a situation that requires a signal tracer to troubleshoot. The TS-9 uses electronic bypass so the switch is a single pole momentary switch, no audio signal passes through the footswitch. The switch causes a flip-flop circuit to change states, and the outputs from the flip-flop are used to switch three JFET that route the signals between the input and output jacks. If the footswitch is defective it won't turn the pedal on or off consistently. I don't see any situation where the circuit is "stuck halfway" on because flip-flops don't work like that. If you're not already familiar with electronics and electronic components, tracking down the fault could be a frustrating exercise.
  5. I used part of my first stimulus check to buy a "cheap" fretless bass. A local mom & pop store had a Squier Jazz bass for the same price ($400) the big box music store sells it! Mine is a lined fretless with sunburst body and some kind of brown wood for the fingerboard. The build quality is excellent, I can't find any flaws in the fit or finish. Contrary to my expectations, the bass came with roundwounds, I played it that way for a week or so but then went and bought a set of flatwound strings - D'addario Chromes. My fretted basses have roundwounds, I wanted something different for this bass. First fretless, first Jazz Bass, first bass with flatwound strings. I LOVE playing it! The flatwound strings have a nice feel, my intonation seems reasonable if not perfect, and I dig blending the two single coil pickups, I finally get why these basses are so popular and well-loved.
  6. Their Facebook page said the data center they use was load-testing a backup generator, and that somehow caused a fire to break out. Never mind the fact the data centers (at least the ones I've been in) have extensive, automatic fire-suppression systems that use Halon or CO2, but for some reason the local fire department hosed the data center down with water. I only hang out there 'cause this place is a ghost town.
  7. Update, 4/9/21, about 7 pm CDT, TalkBass is back online and seems to be running more or less normally. 4/09/2021: Edited the subject line for improved truthiness and less trolly-ness. :-) Rest in Peace, fellow music related forum. It's actually a nice forum, even though they're fairly strict about moderating posts and users. The sub forums where I tend to hang out (Amps & Cabs, Pickups & Electronics, Recording Gear) have decent traffic. Here's hoping they get their operation back online soon.
  8. Sound like an issue with the electronic bypass, which is pretty rare, in my experience. Unless you have a sentimental attachment to this pedal, I suggest you just get a new one. They're like Dixie cups!
  9. What Daddymack said..." I wouldn't bother." Re-angling the neck even by a couple of degrees is going to change the feel of playing the guitar, and will create other weirdness like the neck pickup being too close to the strings and the bridge pickup being too far away, or at least will require other steps to put the pickups in their proper position. If you have a hankerin' for a Strat style body with tune-o-matic bridge, both Schecter and ESP make Fender-style guitars with TOM style bridges. They seem to be oriented to metal players, they always seem to be equipped with humbucking pickups.
  10. I presume this is a new product, as I'd never seen it before. It's from Guitar Center's "in house" Acoustic brand. The unit is a programmable 6 loop effects controller, with six banks each with six patches in each bank, for a total of 36 total patches. As far as I know, this is the most inexpensive programmable loop switcher on the market. This is a simple, bare bones unit, so there's no capability for amp channel switching nor MIDI control of any kind. However, those are features I don't need at this time. The unit is in a heavy duty bent case made of curved steel. The stomp buttons are chrome plated, and have a nice solid "click" when you step on them even though they're momentary switches. Each of the six selector switches is surrounded by a bright backlight to show which loops (pedals) are activated for each patch. There's a nice large LED display that shows the bank, patch and status (program/edit/save, ect). The LED display is also used by the unit's guitar tuner function. It also has a mute function but apparently no "bypass all" function so if you need a completely clean tone you have to program a patch for that. The unit comes with a power supply, but thankfully it runs on bog-standard 9V Boss DC power. I powered mine from my pedal board's ISO-5 power supply. Setting up the programs for the patches is very simple and quick. Once I got everything cabled up (that's a whole other post...) it only took me a few minutes to get my patches programmed. My pedals and effects sound exactly like they did before! No pops of thumps when changing patches; no added noise. I'm pleased as punch with my purchase. A few things to note if you're considering one of these: Since it has six footswitches, it's rather wide, and due to the steel enclosure, has some significant weight too. It takes up a sizeable chunk of pedalboard real estate, and that prime bottom row space too. The built in tuner is nice to have, but it's a bit mediocre compared to most pedal or clip on tuners. The LED display is easy to see, but it's a simple 3 mode flat/in tune/sharp display. Switching to a loop controller FX setup means doubling the number of your pedal interconnect cables. so there's that expense and hassle to consider. Once I got this looper, I instantly saw and understood the utility of narrow bodied "mini" pedals that everyone's making right now. I'd like to run several more pedals on my board but there just isn't room. Also in regards to cabling the jacks are numerous and close together, so certain types of cable ends might not fit.
  11. It shouldn't be. The pedal will go to zero volume with the control turned all the way down, but the volume should increase gradually and smoothly all the way to maximum. The LPB-1 is probably one of the simplest production pedals on the market. It uses a single transistor, a high gain (?) 2N5088 in a voltage-divider bias scheme for stability and symetrical amplification, i.e., it's made not to distort. The volume/output control is a 100 K Ohm pot, on schematics where it's marked, it specs an "A" (audio taper) potentiometer. the other components are 4 fixed resistors, and two film caps, one for input and one for output. True bypass footswitches are common problem in pedals that have them, and sometimes cause low output when the pedal's engaged, ect.
  12. That's not dust, that's the remnants of grey foam rubber used to pad the internal battery. TS-808 schematics are widely available on the web, there's no mystery how these pedals are built. HINT: the foot switch has one terminal to ground, (as your "before" picture shows!) and the red/white wire goes to a terminal #2 on the printed circuit board.
  13. The scheme you're wanting to implement is the same as "Telecaster super switch wiring." The 'super switch' is a 4 way telecaster-type blade switch that enables the neck/both parallel/both series/bridge selection. The blade-type pickup switch IS a rotary switch, just with a reduced range of rotation. So this diagram will work with a rotary switch once you figure out the common and switch terminals for each switch "wafer." Note that you'll only need to use two of the three poles. And of course the volume, tone and output jack are wired the same as a telecaster too. https://www.fralinpickups.com/2017/03/14/4-way-switching-tele/ I can draw schematics, but they're useless to most people. If you want a pretty picture diagram Guitarelectronics will make you a custom one, for a FEE of course. However, it does appear the pictorial diagram for the rotary switch wiring is correct. Yes you can, you just don't hook anything to the third pole. The diagram you linked to in Guitar Electronics isn't at all what the OP is looking for.
  14. SPST, momentary, N.O. (normally open) Those switches are quite common, if you don't have electronic supply house where you live they can be purchased by mail order.
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