Jump to content

Lets build a little guitar - #14


Freeman Keller

Recommended Posts

  • Members

This is the finishing stage and while it isn't quite finished (ouch) I thought I would go ahead and post it anyway. I devoted one month to finishing - there was actually a pretty strict schedule as you'll see.

 

There are lots of different guitar finishes (maybe I'll do a sidebar) but only a few that work for the home builder. The simplist are brush on - shellacs, varnishes and so-called brushing lacquer. Probably the most popular is Tru Oil - it is used by gun builders a lot and many people seem to get very nice results with it. Most professional finishes are some kind of sprayed poly or lacquer - by far the easiest for the home builder is rattle cans of nitrocellulose (different than car lacquer). I used this on my first two and got very good finishes (the steps are almost identical to what will follow). However nitro is just plain nasty - it is toxic, explosive, stinky and in rattle cans, pretty expensive. So for my last three I have switched to water based or waterborn lacquer.

 

Waterborn lacquer uses water as its main solvent - it is environmently friendly, doesn't stink or try to blow up the garage, and cleans up with water. Only problem, you need a compressor and spray gun. Well, I had a compressor so I bought a little detail gun and away we go. I will be using all StewMac materials - easy to buy stuff from them, they will all be compatible and Dan Erlewine has written a great book on how to use them.

 

IMG_1142.jpg

 

First step is to stain the mahogany neck a nice dark redish brown to match the rosewood. You can leave it light, but I like this effect. You can either stain the wood or the first few coats - I chose to stain the wood. However, even tho I masked the light birch laminate that is supposed to offset the headplate and extend the binding theme, unfortunately it wicked a little stain and doesn't stand out like I had hopped. Oh well, next time I stain before gluing it on

 

IMG_1140.jpg

 

The other thing has has to be done is fill the porus rosewood back and sides. Rosewood and mahogany are very open grained wood and you would think that the lacquer will fill the little pores - well it doesn't so you have to (spruce doesn't need pore filling). Pore filler is kind of a putty like stuff that you wipe into the wood, then try to remove from the surface. It took a couple of applications

 

IMG_1138.jpg

 

Now we start spraying. I did two wash coats (dilluted 1:1) and added one drop of amber stain to 4 oz of finish to just slightly kill the white look of the spruce. The wash coat sinks deeply into the wood. I have built a simple little spray booth out of an old guitar shipping box - basically eveything else in the garage gets cover with a tarp

 

IMG_1143.jpg

 

I spray 15 coats of sanding sealer - lacquer that is very high in solids which is intended to level and fill the wood. Three coats a day, sanded to 220 or 320 before each session. Then 12 coats of gloss top coat, again 3 per day sanded to 400 between sessions. I shot the last three the morning that I left for a weeks vacation - that was critical because I wanted one week to dry.

 

When I got back the guitar was wet sanded with 800, 1200, 1500 and 2000 grit paper, then polished with medium and fine compounds. I wish I had a nice buffing wheel but the foam pad in the drill is adequate

 

IMG_1213.jpg

 

Here it is after the first polishing. I need to do at least one more with the fine and one or two with the swirl remover - that will wait until I done some of the setup. Anyway, here it is right now

 

IMG_1214.jpg

 

IMG_1215.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply
  • Members

 

The pyramid bridge if you turn it the other way around. The "belly" bridge is too intrusive, IMO. The pyramid bridge just seems to fit that small body better.

 

 

 

Oops, good thing there wasn't any glue on it, eh? I started out thinking the same way but the more I look at the gentle curve of the end of the fretboard and keep thinking that, after all, this will be a girl's guitar..... I wish I could make the belly bridge smaller but I'd really muck it up if I tried.... My other home mades all have belly bridges.... All the original Martin parlors were pyramid... I just can't decide.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

In the pictures the pyramid bridge seems to be a more proportional size to the body of the guitar. I like the belly bridge better but it looks a little big. I like your thought of a smaller belly bridge. I think that would be perfect.

 

It looks beautiful. Great work and great attention to detail.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

OK, question for you folks. I have two bridges that I can use - a traditional pyramid bridge


and a more modern "belly" bridge


any comments on what you think I should use?

 

the kidney/belly bridge looks a tad big for for parlour. if it was up to me, id go for the pyramid :thu:

 

have you ever considered shell as a material for the saddle?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

Words just won't come to me in order to describe how amazed I am at each step. I can't wait for the next step: posting A/V clips on the Annex! Followed of course by "the reveal" - again in video! ;)

 

BTW, my vote's for the pyramid bridge. The belly bridge is just too big and the pyramid gives it more of a vintage look that goes along well with the slot head.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

In the pictures the pyramid bridge seems to be a more proportional size to the body of the guitar. I like the belly bridge better but it looks a little big. I like your thought of a smaller belly bridge. I think that would be perfect.


It looks beautiful. Great work and great attention to detail.

 

 

I would have to agree. The belly bridge is just too big for the body, though I prefer its design. Too bad you can't come across a smaller one.

 

If you can't, go with the pyramid bridge. It is simple but elegant.

 

Wonderful job...as usual.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

Wow, Freeman!

 

With each new installment, I'm again astounded by the scope of your talent and skill.

 

Though pyramid bridges are not particularly to my personal taste, I think it's the more appropriate one for this guitar.

 

This little guitar seems to have an old-world style that generates thoughts of the renaissance era in my mind, so I think the belly bridge is too modern in addition to being out of proportion.

 

I do, however, agree with others that the curves of a smaller belly bridge would harmonize nicely with the graceful curves of the guitar.

 

Can't wait to see it when it's finished!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

I like the proportions of the pyramid. I've been thinking about building one of Stewmac's 000 kits but the thought of getting all the work done to assemble the body and then taking a router to it and risking a tear out for the binding freaks me out. I would think anyone doing the routing must be in a cold sweat when that cutter is whizzing around at 25K against that soft spruce! I don't know how anyone does this.

Beautiful work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...