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About garthman

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  1. Spring is here. And some hope too. April Come She Will by Paul Simon https://app.box.com/s/zbb2toxqglllsvb9c1rzt20b7rvp7bpz
  2. I think the Dove and Hummingbird copies were made by Kiso Suzuki around the mid 70s. It is likely to be a very well made guitar that rivals a genuine Gibson in quality. Suzuki guitars from around that time are highly valued instruments. Nice inheritance.
  3. Fender do something similar with a few different models to choose from. I haven't played them so couldn't attest to their sound. Look here: https://shop.fender.com/en-GB/acoustic-guitars/auditorium/newporter-player/0970743044.html
  4. Well, well. Very long time, no see. Welcome back. And thanks for your kind comments.
  5. Short but very sweet. Nice one, Deep.
  6. An old thread. But it's still true today. And nice to be reminded of some old friends from the past.
  7. I sort of promised a Leonard Cohen song but I'll slip this one in first: "Homeward Bound" by Paul Simon https://app.box.com/s/0fde9y2vu9hrc4b6h0e2q4g48zc2g99b
  8. LOL. I think "arcane" is perhaps an overstatement but I know what you mean. But, from experience, I think Idunno has it right: strings tend to lose their "sparkle" after a few weeks. And I've also found that it happens just as quickly on expensive strings as it does on less expensive ones. The basic wire materials are commodity items and a string winding machine works pretty much the same wherever in the world it is located.
  9. Same here. Apart from the odd special case (like the 14 gauge strings I have tuned down 4 semitones on one guitar - a DIY baritone guitar) I use two cheap brands of acoustic strings and two of nylon strings. I bulk-buy 5 sets at a time - works out at around £4 or less per set which is half what we would pay for D'Addario sets in the UK. I change strings every 4 weeks on my most-played acoustics and every 8 weeks on my classicals (I take off the the nylon basses after 4 weeks and turn them around so that the end at the bridge goes to the headstock - gives an unworn length for playing - the
  10. LOL - yeah. I hear people saying "this string sounds way better that that" etc etc when in reality there is often very little difference in sound between strings. This is worth a look and listen:
  11. PS. I'm using the word "bronze" in the post above to mean "80/20 bronze" as they are commonly called but in fact they are brass: 80% copper and 20% zinc. Bronze is an alloy of copper and tin usually with traces of other elements often, these days, phosphorus, hence "PB". Electric guitar strings are usually wound with nickel plated steel so they react better with magnetic pickups. You can use nickel plated steel strings on acoustic guitars too if you want (even though many people say you can't).
  12. Hello again, Brindleleaf When it comes to strings it's really a matter of personal preference in sound and playability (and please ignore anyone who says you have to use 12s or 13s or whatever on this or that guitar to get anything like a decent sound - that is just their personal preference). As to PB v Bronze (or any other material), again, it's up to you I always recommend experimentation with different brands, gauges and compositions. I've found that different guitars suit different strings. On one of my guitars - a solid Englemann spruce over solid mahogany dreadnought I prefer
  13. PS. I've just measured the action on a couple of my steel string guitars and get values of 3mm for low E and 2.5mm for high E. I've set up the guitars how I like them when I play - which is mostly finger-picking. So I would say yours is not bad. I have noticed from your pics that the saddle is higher at the low E end - you could shave a little off off the saddle base (at a slight angle) to bring it down a little. Deepend mentions values of 2.5mm for low E and 1.5mm for high E - that would be too low for me on an acoustic.
  14. LOL not really. As well as playing and performing I'm a DIY guitar maintenance and fixer person. I do set ups, fit electronics, cut nuts, modify / repair bridges and saddles, etc, etc using normal tools and bits and bobs. Freeman is more of a "luthier" guy and has all the (expensive) gear. So he works by the book and sort of frowns on my shortcuts and quick fixes. But I do all by own guitars and have done up many for friends without any complaints. It all depends on the guitar. As I said above you probably wouldn't want to do a quickfix repair on a valuable instrument but if it's an old b
  15. Or you could shave the bridge. And if you reduce the height of the saddle afterwards to improve the action you will pretty much maintain the ratio within the slot.
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