Members DaveAronow Posted December 12, 2008 Author Members Share Posted December 12, 2008 Dave- Did you ever get the pictures off your camera? Yes. Sorry, I thought I already posted these in this thread. That is a Tru-oil finish on the neck, by the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members alex9152 Posted December 12, 2008 Members Share Posted December 12, 2008 So you never got around to touching up the chip on the edge of the body? I would have been driven insane by that flaw. Looks amazing otherwise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DaveAronow Posted December 12, 2008 Author Members Share Posted December 12, 2008 So you never got around to touching up the chip on the edge of the body? I would have been driven insane by that flaw. Looks amazing otherwise.Yeah, I never got around to it. I will some day, but I just havent yeat. I have been to busy with other stuff and as much as the red and the green contrast, I still hardly ever notice it, so I just dont think about fixing it too often. Thanks for the compliments. Even THESE pictures arent the greatest. I should have used a tripod or s a higher speed, but the pics are blurry because I cant hold the camera still enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members HanSolo Posted December 13, 2008 Members Share Posted December 13, 2008 Nice job. It's proof positive that you waste your time stripping the original finish if you're just going to paint it another color. No reason to strip if the underlying finish is still solid and can be sanded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DaveAronow Posted December 13, 2008 Author Members Share Posted December 13, 2008 Nice job. It's proof positive that you waste your time stripping the original finish if you're just going to paint it another color. No reason to strip if the underlying finish is still solid and can be sanded. Yes EXCEPT..... when you take chips and dings out, you WILL see the underlying color if they dont go all the way to the wood. If you are hard on your guitars, and If that bothers you, then you should strip it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members chqtarzan Posted December 13, 2008 Members Share Posted December 13, 2008 Awesomely awesome!I heard that laquer from a can is soft, is that true? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Geeter Posted December 13, 2008 Members Share Posted December 13, 2008 That looks fabulous Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DaveAronow Posted December 13, 2008 Author Members Share Posted December 13, 2008 Awesomely awesome!I heard that laquer from a can is soft, is that true? It aint like poly, but, no, not neccessarily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DRPool Posted December 13, 2008 Members Share Posted December 13, 2008 I'll say again Dave nice work and thanks for the sharing your experience. I've subscribed and will be referring back to this thread when painting weather returns in the spring. I've got a squier just waiting for a fresh new look. BTW, my git has some pretty good nicks that go clear down through the finish. When it comes to sanding would it be best to take everything all the way down to that same depth as the damage or is there some middle ground? Perhaps a filler of some sort? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mc5nrg Posted December 14, 2008 Members Share Posted December 14, 2008 Where was that Squier originally made? Thanks. I have a Scrapocaster made with an extremely beat sbst body with the same routs but don't kinow too much about the body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DaveAronow Posted December 14, 2008 Author Members Share Posted December 14, 2008 I'll say again Dave nice work and thanks for the sharing your experience. I've subscribed and will be referring back to this thread when painting weather returns in the spring. I've got a squier just waiting for a fresh new look.BTW, my git has some pretty good nicks that go clear down through the finish. When it comes to sanding would it be best to take everything all the way down to that same depth as the damage or is there some middle ground? Perhaps a filler of some sort? The first page of the thread explains the filling of chips, dents, and dings, process in pretty good detail. It is a piece of cake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DRPool Posted December 14, 2008 Members Share Posted December 14, 2008 The first page of the thread explains the filling of chips, dents, and dings, process in pretty good detail. It is a piece of cake. Aaah yes, good old Bondo. Sorry I missed that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members xxtinyterrified Posted February 24, 2009 Members Share Posted February 24, 2009 After spraying on a couple of coats and being WAY too impatient, I knew I had to stop, and back up as I ended up with all kinds of sags, runs, drips, etc from holding the can way too close, and just trying to get WAY too much paint on there too fast. Sad part is, I know better, but I did it anyway. Yes, I am anal, but it was actually alot worse than you can see in this photo. So, after a night of drying, and resanding, we are ready for round two. No big deal yet, I still only have about an hour into this..... The guitar is totally smooth again, all drips etc, gone. i think it would have lookind {censored}in awesome like this! (in the pic) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DaveAronow Posted January 15, 2010 Author Members Share Posted January 15, 2010 Where was that Squier originally made? Thanks. I have a Scrapocaster made with an extremely beat sbst body with the same routs but don't kinow too much about the body. The Body was made in china. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members BG76 Posted January 15, 2010 Members Share Posted January 15, 2010 Looks good Dave. You can do fine finishes with rattlecans - especially if you're one of us who grew up building model cars! The biggest reason I don't like using the spray cans is that it's expensive and compressors are cheap these days. I have a little Porter Cable compressor that came with my nailgun set and my gun was about $30.00. I buy nitro clear at a place near me and I buy transtint as I need it (now I have a lot of colors). I have an auto guy who gets me any color I need - that gets pricey, but again, you can save what's left so it's worth it. The main thing I like about using a gun is that I can spray a finish on dry and not get any dust in it. I also find that I have to do less sanding and I can put a much thinner coat on. That being said, your guitar looks great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Meowy Posted January 15, 2010 Members Share Posted January 15, 2010 Nice job. I have 2 guitars that I am considering for a refinish. How has the paint held up over the past ~year? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DaveAronow Posted January 15, 2010 Author Members Share Posted January 15, 2010 Looks good Dave. You can do fine finishes with rattlecans - especially if you're one of us who grew up building model cars! The biggest reason I don't like using the spray cans is that it's expensive and compressors are cheap these days. I have a little Porter Cable compressor that came with my nailgun set and my gun was about $30.00. I buy nitro clear at a place near me and I buy transtint as I need it (now I have a lot of colors). I have an auto guy who gets me any color I need - that gets pricey, but again, you can save what's left so it's worth it. The main thing I like about using a gun is that I can spray a finish on dry and not get any dust in it. I also find that I have to do less sanding and I can put a much thinner coat on. That being said, your guitar looks great! I agree with most of the above, but the point of this thread was not to try to convince people to use rattle cans instead of guns/compression. It was only to demonstrate to the doubters, nay sayers and the docjeffreys of the world that it can be done very effectively, easily with rattlecans and with excellent results. You could not tell this guitar wasnt painted with compressors and spray guns if you see it in person unless I told you. alot of DIYers simply arent set up to use the gear you mention and might be too impatient to get started on some refin. This was just to show it could be done. As far as expensive? Really, a nice finsh can be achieved with a few cans of paint, a few pieces of sand paper, some swirl remover compound, and some final polishing. This guitar really didnt even need the clearcoat lacquer. It could have been polished to a nice high gloss even without it and could have been called done. The cost at that point would have been about 15.00. Not to bad for a complete color change and refin. Oh, and between the ages of about 8 and 14 back in the seventies, I must have built about 1000 model cars and planes, most painted with rattle cans. Yup. I was one of those kids. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DaveAronow Posted January 15, 2010 Author Members Share Posted January 15, 2010 Nice job. I have 2 guitars that I am considering for a refinish. How has the paint held up over the past ~year? The paint has held up perfectly. The guitar has a couple of small dings in it where I band it around, Im rough on my lower end guitars, but they are small and are exactly the same damage that would have happened with any other finish under the same circumstances. I never really did get great enough pictures of this guitar to show the full effect of the deep gloss and mirror finish that were the final result. My camera sucks and I am not a great photographer, but next time I have the camera handy and I am thinking about it, I will try to get more accurate photos. the ones I posted so far only hint at the results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Charliemills Posted January 15, 2010 Members Share Posted January 15, 2010 What did you use to "buff" out the clear coat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Kellanium Posted January 15, 2010 Members Share Posted January 15, 2010 Oh wow. that's amazerific! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Meowy Posted January 15, 2010 Members Share Posted January 15, 2010 The paint has held up perfectly. The guitar has a couple of small dings in it where I band it around, Im rough on my lower end guitars, but they are small and are exactly the same damage that would have happened with any other finish under the same circumstances.I never really did get great enough pictures of this guitar to show the full effect of the deep gloss and mirror finish that were the final result. My camera sucks and I am not a great photographer, but next time I have the camera handy and I am thinking about it, I will try to get more accurate photos.the ones I posted so far only hint at the results. Nice. I've read that a larger project like this that a number of the small hobby cans poses a risk in that the hue and color saturation can vary from can to can and from lot to lot. But the nice things about the hobby paint is that they are acrylic lacquer and they open up the color pallete from genreal purpose / auto paint. I was thinking of going with Dupli Color auto cans, which is also acrylic lacquer. Did you need to ensure the color was consistent from can to can? Also, I noticed that you did not use any primer to seal off the original finish. How does one decide if primer is needed or not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Elias Graves Posted January 15, 2010 Members Share Posted January 15, 2010 It can be done. As far as the buffing....polishing compound, a cloth and elbow grease if you don't have a buffer.This was all rattle can.EG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members d_dave_c Posted January 15, 2010 Members Share Posted January 15, 2010 Did you just tape of the black faux binding? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mutant_guitar Posted January 15, 2010 Members Share Posted January 15, 2010 Both of these were done using rattle cans. The final polishing is, without a doubt, the hardest part of the process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Meowy Posted January 15, 2010 Members Share Posted January 15, 2010 The mural on the last one is incredible Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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