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I pianted THIS guitar. From a RATTLE CAN!!!


DaveAronow

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Professional looking finishes just can't be achieved without professional equipment (dust free spray booths, air brushes, appropriate lacquers, etc).

 

 

I'm gonna have to strongly disagree with you here. Sure you can get great results from all of that equipment you listed, but I've seen plently of great finishes done with reranch stuff and even deft products from home depot. do a search for some of shovelheads LP burst finishes or check out what some of the really talented guys on the tele forum can do with "cheap" paint.

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Looking good, Dave.

 

I had a rear wing on my M3 that had lost the clear in a small 2inch area.

Looked unsightly and drove me bonkers every time I looked at it.

Not wanting to pay $150 for a repaint, I ordered some cans from Towerpaint.

Not really expensive...$16 a can.

 

Sanded it down and applied 10 coats of base; wet sanding each one.

Spent nearly three weeks in my spare time on that thing.

Came down to the last couple of coats one Saturday and I was looking forward to getting the clear on it.

Well, it had been stored in the garage and it was kinda cool that morning.

I hung it up on the door in the sunshine and put on a coat of clear.

 

Not having ever done this sort of painting before, I didn't realize how a cool and unbeknownst to me, slightly moist surface would react.

The clear went on and turned cloudy in some spots.

Completely ruined the job. The moisture was trapped and blistered the clear as it dried within minutes.

I was crestfallen after all the work I'd done.

 

Fortunately, I have a friend that owns a body shop so he offered to paint it for me.

I decided to take him up on the offer. No charge.

 

Make sure it's completely dry before you apply any coat, if you're planning on painting outside at all.

Inside, it shouldn't be a problem.

 

EDIT: Didn't realize you updated the first few posts with pics of the finished paintjob.

Anyway, my advice is for anyone who wants to attempt this.

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Looks GREAT! And you absolutely can achieve a mirror-like factory finish with cans and hand buffinng, it just takes some work. Go check out the reranch.com forums for some staggeringly beautiful finishes, all done with rattle cans and buffed with old T-shirts. Not saying it wouldn't be easier with a clean booth and HVLP gear, but it can be done.

 

I had some problem with runs for my first refin project, but now I hold the guitar body horizontally when I spray - and spray a thinner coat. No runs at all. I use acrylic lacquer (duuplicolor from Pep Boys) and Deft clear, both prodyucts are great and are really easy to work with.

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I was at Walmart earlier tonight picking up some pet supplies and happened by the paint department. Saw cans of
Seafoam Green
by Rustoleum. Hmmmm, may have a refin project or two on the way myself.

 

 

I'm not saying not to use available supplies, but I would personally avoid the Rustoleum. In my experience, Rustoleum takes FOREVER to fully dry, and doesn't dry that hard (at least, not anytime soon). I think it's the rust inhibitors they add.

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Personally if I refinish an older guitar I don't want it to look brand new shiny buffed etc. I actually need it to be a little rough to go along with the look of the old hardware, fingerboard and the rest of the guitar. it's an aethetic thing...not necessarily relic but I want the guitar to look like it's been stored in a closet for 40 years unplayed and not fresh off the assembly line.

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It only took two mentions (one by Ryan Treversol in another thread and balthazarr here) that I decided to look 'em up.


Thanks for the tip...here's the link y'all:


http://www.towerpaint.com/customcans.html


I'm with you carl...feeling inspired but not motivated.
:(

 

Figure $26 for one custom can after you factor in shipping. I had them make me some Aztec Gold. Sweet color....too bad the body fell off the paint stick while drying.

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I can't bring myself to monkey with any of my playing guitars.

 

But I love tinkering with old ones and re-finishing them, and I'm always watching to read other people's methods. This was great reading, thanks for posting it.

 

:snax:

 

And great job on that guitar!

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Doesn't SX have one close to seafoam green now? Who knows, it may show up seafoam.


Also, the new squier bullets - the daphne blue ones I've seen are more green (unless there's a green one, too.)

 

 

It's about the project, not the convenience. Plus the SX I'm looking at buying is red.

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Update:

 

The guitar has been curing for well over a month and I have been so busy with other projects that I have been waiting (procrastinating) on finishing it and putting it back together.

 

i finally finished it about a week ago,(the body) but I have been waiting for a few parts to complete it.

 

I was going to post pics of it once it was complete, but I am actually STILL waiting for a few things, SOOOOO,

 

this evening when I get home, I will put the guitar together, and Take some frsh shots of it for everyone.

 

You can read in the thread earlier that I was planning to use a highspeed buffer to do the final buffing with, but it turns out, I left it in a friends shop, and now we cant find it, so I just poroceeded by hand to try to get close to finished.

 

Well, not only did I get close, I got a perfectly AMAZING deep deep high gloss finish, perfectly level and completely as smooth as a table top.

 

This has ended even better than I was hoping for.

 

I handed thje guitar to a buddy of mine and asked him to try to find a flaw in the finish, and after about 5 minutes af turning it, and studying it, he handed it back to me and simnply said.... "WOW. There ARE no flaws."

 

Anyway, pics to comne later, most likely this evening....

 

Stand by......

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Looks great Dave, I love that colour on strats :thu:

 

I tried refinishing my old strat body but it didnt work too well because I put the lacquer on too thick/fast and got drips down the front :cry: In the end I decided to just strip all the paint off and keep it natural with a bit of gun stock oil on it :D

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You can read in the thread earlier that I was planning to use a highspeed buffer to do the final buffing with, but it turns out, I left it in a friends shop, and now we cant find it, so I just poroceeded by hand to try to get close to finished.

 

 

Okay, noobish and rather non-manly question but - how do hand buff? Brasso?

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Okay, noobish and rather non-manly question but - how do hand buff? Brasso?

 

 

No, after the wet sanding process, hand buffing simply involves using various products, automotive products, such as waxes, scratch removers, and rubbing compounds, applied with a microfiber cloth covered foam disk.

 

When I post the final pics, I will take you through a detailed step by step process involving the wet sanding and final buffing process, and give you product and equiptment suggestions.

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