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I pianted THIS guitar. From a RATTLE CAN!!!


DaveAronow

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heres a guitar that I painted with a can as well, further proof that anyone can do DIY if they want, it was my first attempt at painting, for some reason my cam makes the colour come out looking kinda dull, I think its the flash, but the area unaffected by the flash, (armrest area) you can see its reflecting the pattern of my rug, the whole guitar is basicly that shiny

 

the only advice I have to give is REALLY REALLY give it time to cure before buffing! its very important, just play it as is for a couple of months, especially if your using nitro, then buff

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You did a great job there Dave. I'm glad you mentioned the impatient part and holding the can too close even though you know better. I've done the same thing. I tried painting my car inside a one car garage one time with a compressor unit. I just couldn't get far enough away. Let's just say the paint job was a drip.

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What are you gonna use to buff it out?

 

You mean equiptment or products?

 

When I say buffing, I should be more clear, and let everyone know that the buffing process will include...............

 

actually, the guitar's final clear coat will be wet sanded with wet dry paper to remove the orange peel, starting by very gently using 1000 grit wet/dry paper to knock the high spots off the orange peel till the whole finish is dull, all the way down to and including the low spots or valleys in the orange peel.

 

Once I have gotten there,

 

I will increase to 1200 grit paper, and start removing the tiny scratches left by the 1000 grit paper.

 

Each increase in fineness in paper, removes the previous larger scratches, and deposits smaller scratches.

 

I will work my way up through this process going through the grits of paper in this order.

 

From 1000 to 1200 to 1500 to 2000 to 2500.

 

I stop at 2500, because basically at that grit, I am wasting my time using paper, because I can use compound at that point.

 

Alot of people that go this far, actually stop at 2000 grit.

 

I probably would too on a different type of project, but a guitar is so small, the next grit will only take a few minutes

 

I have to say that this sounds like alot of work, but I have done WHOLE boats with this process, wet sanding and buffing, some air sprayed, some actually rattle can painted, and on a guitar, each step will only take a few minutes, even by hand.

 

THEN......

 

The buffing begins as follows...........

 

I will use a highspeed rotary buffer.

 

Many people fear this tool as it can be delicate to work with because it can burn swilrs into the clearcoat and paint or just flat out remove it.

 

You really need to use one for a while until you figure out what it will and wont do, to get comfortable with it, but it isnt the impossibility that alot of people make it out to be.

 

BUT, there is absolutely no way a random orbital buffer can achieve the same level or type of finish as a high speed rotary buffer, as it is the actual speed itself that uses friction and heat to soften the top layer for easier and more effective buffing, that a random orbital just cant do.

 

However!!!!

 

IF, you do not have access to a high speed rotary buffer, you CAN use a random orbital and still achieve exellent results.

 

You just wont be able to achieve perfection.

Mine won't be perfect by any measure, but that is what I am shooting for.

 

Anyway, I prefer to use foam pads as opposed to wool, because the wool ones are more aggressive and actually cut layers of paint off, where the fome ones do alot less cutting and rely more on heat friction.

 

I use a harder one for compounds and a softer one for the polishes.

 

I will just carefully work my way up through the compound and polishings levels of fineness, just like I did with the paper, untill I will not only be able to see myself in the reflection, I will be able to see the guy behind me standing a block away.

 

I will comment more on the techniques and products I use at the time I do this and repost in this thread.

 

Anyway, it will probably be more like a month or longer until I start this.

 

I just want to make sure it is absolutely dry and hard before this, and I am in no hurry, I have plenty of other guitars to play, so I dont actually need this one, and I have quite a few other projects I am in the middle of to keep me busy till then.

 

Anyone interested in a one-off Tele-shaped solid body mandolin build thread?

 

Hint Hint.;)

 

Anyway, when this guitar is done, hopefully you and I both, will be amazed at the difference between the pics I have posted so far, and the final finished wet sanded and buffed pics.

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I do all my finishes with rattle cans (from ReRanch mostly). It works just fine if you go slow. Lacquer based rattle cans are even better because of the penetrating nature of Lacquer. Looks fantastic. What's your polishing method?

 

Yes.

 

You CAN doooo eeeeet!!!

 

I will admit....

 

It would be ALOT easier and probably almost no more money just to have an autobody shop do this for you, but you would probably have to wait for a day when they are shooting a car with the same color, so they can do your guitar at the same time to keep the costs down.

 

Depends on how much you want to pay, you could get a primo job for a few hundred bucks if you want, or even spend 1000.00 or more on some ultra high end custom airbrushed and or graphic design, but I doubt anyone would want to do that on a squier.

 

And besides..... where would the fun be in that?

 

And I cross posted an answer to your polishing question in the last post.

 

 

 

:wave:

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Nice color. I will interject one word of advice. To get it near mirror-smooth before wetsanding, paint it horizontal one side at a time blending at the sides. You can flood the clear on heavy and smooth without runs or sags when the body is horizontal.

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Out of curiosity, what lacquer did you use? I've had decent luck with Deft, but always like to hear about other products.

 

 

Axegrinder, I used this Lacquer by Valspar.

 

I bought it at Lowe's or Home Depot, I cant remember now.

 

I was in both srores so many times over the past week or so, for other stuff.

 

Anyway, i dont know if it is any better or worse than what you use, it is just what was available and looked to be the best candidate for ultra high gloss at the time.

 

SS850295.jpg

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