I pianted THIS guitar. From a RATTLE CAN!!!

[roygbiv]

yo, mutant, that is fantastic work.

 

can you describe your final polish process?

[Elias Graves]

 

Did you just tape of the black faux binding?

 

 

Its vinyl pinstriping tape from the auto parts store. I applied the clear over it. Feels like inlay when you run your hands over it....completely smooth.

 

And, yes, the polishing is a mother. I probably have 30 hours of polish work in it.

 

EG

[Elias Graves]

The mural on the last one is incredible

 

 

EG

[DaveAronow]

 

Nice. I've read that a larger project like this that a number of the small hobby cans poses a risk in that the hue and color saturation can vary from can to can and from lot to lot. But the nice things about the hobby paint is that they are acrylic lacquer and they open up the color pallete from genreal purpose / auto paint. I was thinking of going with Dupli Color auto cans, which is also acrylic lacquer. Did you need to ensure the color was consistent from can to can? Also, I noticed that you did not use any primer to seal off the original finish. How does one decide if primer is needed or not?

 

 

Well, you get a fair amount of coverage from one can, maybe a couple of coats, so even if you do run into a slight color variation, it will not be noticeable as long as you arent painting the guitar in sections and as long as you are getting good coverage out of each can.

 

As far as primer, there are three major factors in the decision to prime or not to prime.

 

The first would be to ensure that the paint will stick to the surface you are painting. If you are in doubt, an appropriate primer should be used.

 

The second reason would be that if the type of paint you are using doesnt have alot of solid particles in it which create the color and affect the "opaqueness" of the paint, you are going to need alot more coats in order to achieve complete coverage without seeing the underlying older finish. So, in that case you would want to use a similarly colored primer to hide the old color instead of building up and wasting expensive paint to achieve the same thing.

 

The third would be if you wanted to use the primer to act as a filler for light surface scratches that are too large to buff out, but too small to worry about filling. Once again, the primer is a less expensive way to achieve this then using paint.

 

On my project, I decided not to use primer because I knew the paint I was using was high quality, good coverage with adequate solid particles, I knew the paint would stick well to the old paint, especially with a roughed up surface caused by the sanding prepwork, and all the spots that needed filling were too large to use just primer and required more aggressive filling techniques.

 

ALL of this aside, I dont think there are many reasons NOT to use a primer, I mean it couldnt hurt anything, so if you want to use a primer, by all means, go ahead. Just make sure it is compatible with the paint you are using.

 

I guess the only reasons not to use it are if you are sure you dont need it for reasons above, you want to save the money that you would have otherwise spent on the primer, and/or you simply just want to skip this step to save time and labor.

[DaveAronow]

What did you use to "buff" out the clear coat?

 

All the details have been explained in detail in this thread a few pages back.

[Orange Jackson]

Very pretty guitar Dave!! Nice work.

[Meowy]

Thanks for taking the time to share all this in such detail.

 

If I decide to go ahead with either project, I've got my work cut out for me:

 

1. Gibson Melody Maker RI - currently worn white finish = Mahogany with unfilled pores / unleveled surface, factory paint is uneven by design. I am considering surf green, daphne or sonic blue or a creme-yellow (a bit more yellow than fender's vintage while -- somewhere between a manila folder and a post it note)

 

2. MIA Tele - currently black, not sure if it is poly or poly with nitro overcoat. Pretty decent condition, a small chip here and there and a few rubs. Given that it is gloss black and I am considering the same cream-yellow as above or perhaps coral i will need to ensure the black is properly covered (and why I asked my primer questions above). PS (beofre anyone asks / comments) I bought this body used for under $200 so, no I am not crazy taking a rattle can to any substantial investment

[ianlange11]

Both of these were done using rattle cans. The final polishing is, without a doubt, the hardest part of the process.

 

Wow I was just getting GAS for a mini, let me know if you ever want to sell that.

[mutant_guitar]

Wow I was just getting GAS for a mini, let me know if you ever want to sell that.

 

Trust me, you don't want it. It plays like crap, and the finish already has a bunch of chips and scratches. Besides, I'm too sentimental to sell it

 

But, just to tease you, here's another shot of it :poke:

[Elias Graves]

 

Thanks for taking the time to share all this in such detail. If I decide to go ahead with either project, I've got my work cut out for me: 1. Gibson Melody Maker RI - currently worn white finish = Mahogany with unfilled pores / unleveled surface, factory paint is uneven by design. I am considering surf green, daphne or sonic blue or a creme-yellow (a bit more yellow than fender's vintage while -- somewhere between a manila folder and a post it note)

 

 

I'd love to do one of those sometime. I won't use enamel again, I don't think. Something like an automotive lacquer maybe.

 

EG

[Meowy]

 

I'd love to do one of those sometime. I won't use enamel again, I don't think. Something like an automotive lacquer maybe. EG

 

 

I've got a gut feeling that the MM which will require filling and levelling is not a good first real refinish project for me.

 

The extent of my experience is tru oil on non-porous woods (Maple, Alder)