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Teaser - hollow body archtop


Freeman Keller

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Current project - the blond to be. Its a hollow bodied archtop electric - spruce over maple, rosewood trim, jazz pickups. I've been setting the neck and making sure everything lines up before I start cutting holes in the top.

 

IMG_3497_zpsyquuzm3x.jpg

 

IMG_3498_zpsztldu8de.jpg

 

No skulls. I broke a whole lot of maple binding today trying to bend the horn - I'll probably end up binding it in plastic (damn)

 

I'm not the slightest bit interested in doing another build thread but I might post a picture from time to time.

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That's pretty interesting but obviously not something I'm going to throw together to bend two pieces of maple. However anhydrous ammonia is used in commercial refrigeration (I happen to live in an agricultural area and we have lots of large cold storage). Its really dangerous (I think the guy in the movie was pretty lax about the dangers) but I might be able to do some experimenting.

 

Since I do have several scraps of the maple now I think I will just put them in a jar of household ammonia hydroxide (completely different from anhydrous, I know) for a few days and see what happens

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This is a follow up on the binding and 1001's suggestion about ammonia. The binding question needed to get resolved since a whole lot of things depended on it (including whether she would be a blond or maybe have some roots showing). My idea here was to bind the guitar in maple like the back and sides with one thin dark (rosewood) purfling line on the top and one on the back. The maple will take whatever color I put on the wood and it would have figure that follows that of the sides. At least that is the idea. My ace in the hole is always to bind it with cream plastic - Gibson style - but I want something a little more elegant. Problem is, figured maple is darn hard to bend - it wants to crack at the figure lines.

 

It was pretty straight forward to bend the big curves with my side bender

 

IMG_3502_zpse7j6cusc.jpg

 

but the horn is the problem - I have to resort to my hot pipe

 

IMG_3504_zpsqx2davgd.jpg

 

Its just a piece of 2 inch pipe with a blow torch stuck in it and a wet towel on top.

 

Problem is, every time I tried to bend a piece it cracked. I tried 1001gear's idea of soaking it over night in ammonia hydroxide (I don't happen to have a bottle of anhydrous ammonia handy)

 

IMG_3499_zpsmswc2b5u.jpg

 

Not only did the soaked pieces break also (they seemed a little softer) but they also turned dark brown - not the effect I wanted. I also had to explain to my wife why her ammonia now looked like vinegar ....

 

I had a few more pieces of maple so I made a cleaver little jig using a socket and scrap wood and tried again

 

IMG_3505_zpsmy6tlwe5.jpg

 

and, bingo, got some usable pieces

 

IMG_3509_zpsqfur0tfe.jpg

 

Just what I had in mind

 

IMG_3515_zpspzgdvvfm.jpg

 

 

OK, now I can move forward with the fun stuff.

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The binding seemed fun to me...

 

Knowing that the binding was going to work was critical to moving forward - that lets me go ahead and bind the headstock, neck and f-holes

 

IMG_3520_zpstsdrofit.jpg]

 

The other important thing is that little block that will form the wedge between the body and fretboard extension. It is kind of a study in multidimensional frustration. It has to be exactly the plane and angle of the fretboard (4 degrees if anyone is interested), it has to fit the fretboard on both sides (which run at an angle to each other) and fit the side of the cutaway, all the time being on the center line of the guitar. Oh, yes, it is also part of the dovetail and has to sit on the top of the guitar which is not only curved but also not symetrical

 

IMG_3518_zpsy8wibgfh.jpg

 

Just a simple little block of wood....

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that now already looks like a beauty and i can feel your multidimensional pain, if i would need to make something like that, it would not plain on the top, would not be straight with the neck, hmm nothing would be as it should be....

 

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All of the binding on the body, neck and headstock is 1/4 tall and 0.080 thick. On the body there is a strip of rosewood 0.022 thick on the inside and the bottom of the binding - that is the thin dark line. On the neck and headstock that strip is on the bottom where it will form a line against the mahogany of the neck but not against the fretboard or headplate because they are already rosewood.

 

I've put a piece of the rosewood on the edges of the f-holes, I think I want to add a thin piece of maple to bind that and I'll carry that over to the rosewood pickguard (bind it in thin maple).

 

I'll take a better picture of the binding scheme when I get the f-holes finished.

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Here is what I use

 

http://www.lmii.com/products/mostly-wood/bindings-purflings/wood-binding

 

http://www.lmii.com/products/mostly-wood/bindings-purflings/wood-strips-for-purfling-trim

 

BI1R for the binding, PF4 for the trim lines

 

For plastic and fiber binding StewMac has a much better selection, for wood I like LMI. Wood can be glued with either wood glue or CA, plastic requires CA or one of the special glues.

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