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SRV Sig Strat vs Squier Bullet - Shootout - lets do this


wagdog

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Ok cool thanks for the help, I think I will try it out and hope stuff goes well... I have to learn eventually... Jason Lollar has a nice tutorial on youtube so I'll follow that. What type of solder should I use? and does it matter what the tip is on my iron?

Thanks again wagdog

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Ok cool thanks for the help, I think I will try it out and hope stuff goes well... I have to learn eventually... Jason Lollar has a nice tutorial on youtube so I'll follow that. What type of solder should I use? and does it matter what the tip is on my iron?


Thanks again wagdog

 

 

I get the 60/40 resin core solder from radio shack. The skinniest stuff.

 

I don't think the tip matters, really. A skinny one will be easier to maneuver in the cavity without accidentally contacting stuff you shouldn't.

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No, not really. Some people go as far as having a fan moving air around them while soldering... I just try to avoid getting a direct shot of it.



I wouldn't have a fan too close to the work or you'll get a higher chance of cold joints because they cooled too slow.

I just try not to get any of the smoke from flux or solder. The flux smoke will really make your eyes water if you inhale it.:eek:

Anyway, that 25W soldering pencil will work fine. That's all I have. The other stuff is cheap from radio shack. Under $20 for solder, flux, a desoldering bulb, and hookup wire.

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Well I ordered the Premium Alnico Overwounds http://store.guitarfetish.com/provalstpiou.html (grey bottoms from your other thread sounded a little bright for me) so hopefully all goes well... I hope they include a wiring schematic in there... I practiced some soldering today, it seemed ok but I won't know if I can make good connections til next week when I put em in. Are you supposed to tin the iron and the wire you're hooking up?

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I know I'm late so I don't know if anyone will take this seriously, but I listened and voted. I got it right. I didnt look at the answers until after the fact.

In the first set of clips I think the two guitars are pretty close. I honestly couldn't tell from that.

But in the SRV type stuff there is a clear difference. The slow ringing notes in the beginning are kind of similar, but when you play lead the SRV guitar is much clearer and has a stronger SRV type sound. The notes really ring out like someone is running electricity through them. The squier sounds kind of dead.

Anyway, considering the vast price difference the guitars are closer than expected. Nice playing too BTW.

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I had a set of these:




and I really liked them. Come to think of it, I still do have them in a box somewhere.


Even with a preloaded pickguard you are going to have to solder the output lead into place. Soldering in a set of pickups is scary the first time, but it's not that hard - I bet you could learn how to do it.

 

 

Hey wagdog, how did you like those pickups? I was thinking about getting those or the Texas version of those which are like $47. I'm trying to bring my Squier back to life, but honestly, it's a Squier and I don't want to invest much into it. Looking to do the whole thing for under $100 bucks. That's why I have not considered the more expensive $60 dollar pickups.

 

But yeah anways? What can you tell me about those? Build quality, tone, output level? Did you personally like them? Let me know. Thanks!

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Are you supposed to tin the iron and the wire you're hooking up?

 

 

Tin the wire. Tin the iron, but then clean it on a damp (not wet) paper towel. I use an old washcloth to clean my iron.

 

When you solder, you don't drop solder onto the joint, rather you want to heat the joint, then flow the solder into it, all this without overheating things and melting the jacket of the wire.

 

I tend to heat for a second or two, then touch a little solder on the iron right next to the joint and let it flow into the joint which in turn spreads the heat around, then flow the solder into the joint itself. I don't think this is perfect technique, but it works for me.

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Hey wagdog, how did you like those pickups? I was thinking about getting those or the Texas version of those which are like $47. I'm trying to bring my Squier back to life, but honestly, it's a Squier and I don't want to invest much into it. Looking to do the whole thing for under $100 bucks. That's why I have not considered the more expensive $60 dollar pickups.


But yeah anways? What can you tell me about those? Build quality, tone, output level? Did you personally like them? Let me know. Thanks!

 

 

I liked 'em, but I liked the greybottom overwounds better in my setup. They are nice and vintage sounding, great cleans with a lot of depth and dirtied up well. Build quality is OK, they do show some signs of "cheapness" when you look up close at the connections on the bobbins, but not of that seems to effect the tone. As far as output, not overly strong, but not the weakest strat pickup I've tried.

 

If I had another SSS strat that needed pickups, I would put them in it.

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I liked 'em, but I liked the greybottom overwounds better in my setup. They are nice and vintage sounding, great cleans with a lot of depth and dirtied up well. Build quality is OK, they do show some signs of "cheapness" when you look up close at the connections on the bobbins, but not of that seems to effect the tone. As far as output, not overly strong, but not the weakest strat pickup I've tried.


If I had another SSS strat that needed pickups, I would put them in it.

 

 

Yeah I read on the Harmony Central Reviews site that they looked cheap from a visual inspection. Have you gigged with them by any chance? Any input on what they sound like in an outside environment? Do you think they can honestly hold their own and are worth it or to maybe consider spending the extra $20 for some of their GreyBottoms or Premium pickups?

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Tin the wire. Tin the iron, but then clean it on a damp (not wet) paper towel. I use an old washcloth to clean my iron.


When you solder, you don't drop solder onto the joint, rather you want to heat the joint, then flow the solder into it, all this without overheating things and melting the jacket of the wire.


I tend to heat for a second or two, then touch a little solder on the iron right next to the joint and let it flow into the joint which in turn spreads the heat around, then flow the solder into the joint itself. I don't think this is perfect technique, but it works for me.



:thu: good stuff, I'll keep that in mind when I put em in! The set I bought has the neck and middle wound at ~9K and bridge 10k :eek::eek: so I won't really know how they sound like since it seems like there are no sound clips to be found of these. I'll record some samples when they're in, crossing my fingers that these are almost what I want in terms of tone.

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Yeah I read on the Harmony Central Reviews site that they looked cheap from a visual inspection. Have you gigged with them by any chance? Any input on what they sound like in an outside environment? Do you think they can honestly hold their own and are worth it or to maybe consider spending the extra $20 for some of their GreyBottoms or Premium pickups?



I have gigged with that bullet, most recently during the entire 4'th set of our New Years Eve gig. They sound great cranked up (and I really like the old dimarzio paf I have in the bridge of this guitar). Outside, as in not inside? Actually no, come to think of it, I haven't played outside in years. Outside as in outside of my basement, they still sound damn good.

Can they hold their own? Sure, I think they do. The guitar sounds pretty damn stratty, plays ok, etc... there is certainly no monetary value added to it, even though I have a shade over $250 into it, it's still a squier bullet and will always be a bullet.

It's a PLAYER! :)

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I don't think the tip matters, really. A skinny one will be easier to maneuver in the cavity without accidentally contacting stuff you shouldn't.

 

 

If you're trying to heat the back of a pot with a 25w iron and a pencil tip, you're going to be sitting there for a loooooong time. Use the biggest flat tip you can for maximum quick heat transfer. You're on the joint for a few seconds, flow the solder in, you're off. Less chance of damaging parts that way.

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Ha!! I am receiving my second Squier Bullet Strat tomorrow. It'll be a Daphne Blue one to go with my sunburst one.

 

These Squier Bullets are AMAZING guitars for the price and I love the fact that most people guessed wrong on this test.

 

I've been playing guitar for 30 years and I know when a guitar plays well and sounds good. I don't give a crap if it costs $5 or $50,000 and I don't care if it says Squier on the decal or Fender. All I care about is three things. How does it look, sound and play? That's it. And that's why I'm getting a second Bullet and may well order either another Bullet or a CV Strat.

 

I'm not going to say that the Squiers are equal to MIA Strats, but to me, there's no way the small difference in sound quality/feel explains or justifies the HUGE difference in price.

 

So kudos to Squier. Kudos to the OP. And kudos to all the other players like me who champion Squiers (and especially the Bullets).

 

On the the hand, I think any modders out there who are replacing the Squier headstock logo decal with a Fender one are deceitful and spineless. If you're embarrassed to play a Squier, just wear a t-shirt that says so.

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Ha!! I am receiving my second Squier Bullet Strat tomorrow. It'll be a Daphne Blue one to go with my sunburst one.


These Squier Bullets are AMAZING guitars for the price and I love the fact that most people guessed wrong on this test.


I've been playing guitar for 30 years and I know when a guitar plays well and sounds good. I don't give a crap if it costs $5 or $50,000 and I don't care if it says Squier on the decal or Fender. All I care about is three things. How does it look, sound and play? That's it. And that's why I'm getting a second Bullet and may well order either another Bullet or a CV Strat.


I'm not going to say that the Squiers are equal to MIA Strats, but to me, there's no way the small difference in sound quality/feel explains or justifies the HUGE difference in price.


So kudos to Squier. Kudos to the OP. And kudos to all the other players like me who champion Squiers (and esepecially the Bullets).


On the the hand, I think any modders out there who are replacing the Squier headstock logo decal with a Fender one are deceitful and spineless. If you're embarrassed to play a Squier, just wear a t-shirt that says so.

 

 

Holy old thread!

 

Thanks for playing along though.

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