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Changing strings really fast


Fred Fartboski

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Guy who builds and repairs stringed instruments = luthier, right?


Didn't know how to do it, didn't want to break anything, sent him an email, he sent me a link to a vid and instructions he wrote up.


Didn't show me personally, but ... showed me.

 

Yes, but many seem to randomly alternate between luthier and tech., without realising the difference. That's why I asked. ;)

 

You certainly did the right thing and it's always best to ask for advice if ever in doubt. Avoiding problems often takes far less effort than resolving them.

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Life is the longest thing you'll ever do.
:p

Way back when, when changing my first set of strings, the first tool I reached for when trying pull out the pins was a pair of diagonal cutters. Gentle pressure as you squeeze, so you don't mar the pin, then rock it back. Viola!

I've used crimping pliers for years. The crimping part is great for pulling pins and the wire cutter is useful for trimming strings. I'm going to have to remember the bit about using the posts to measure the strings. I may also try to come up with a jig for use with a battery-operated mini-drill.

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Would rather take my time, clean up the guitar, etc. What's the rush?

 

 

+1

 

It's the only time I see my guitars face up under bright light, and a good opportunity to check 'em out and clean 'em up. Don't change strings that often that saving a few minutes by rushing through it matters.

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Would rather take my time, clean up the guitar, etc. What's the rush?

 

 

For me, the only time that speed is of the essence is when I need to have a fresh set on for an important gig or recording session, and the current set is just not "alive" enough.

 

Sometimes, you'll put a set on the night before and it sounds fine, and then you put the guitar in it's case...next day, you get to the gig, open the case and find your beloved axe has a dead set...for some reason, Martin Marquis sets gave me this problem the most often, which is why I haven't used them in several years.

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I tried this yesterday (not for speed) and it went smooth and efficient. I especially liked the control on the string feed and also starting with the right length helps...duh on the later. Before was always an annoying clumsy process for me.

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I like this method, not for the speed, although that guy sure was fast, but for the convenience and the ability to get 3 good windings rather than 1 1/2 or 6. I used to eyeball it (badly), but not anymore.

 

Like a lot of others here, I do more than just change strings when I change strings. I polish the guitar, maybe condition the freboard and run a lead pencil thru the nut grooves. and, yes, it's a good chance to give her a close inspection and note the dimples that I didn't remember from before (duuuhhh).

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I'm not sure what the rules are for posting products on here but I'll put it up and let the mods sort it out. I know this may look like spam as I've never posted in this forum before (usually stay in Backstage) but I found one of the string winder adaptors for the cordless screwdriver online if anyone is interested. Honestly, I'm not affiliated with this company in ANY way. Here's the link if you want to check it out.

 

http://www.guitarstuff.ca/products.html

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Strangely enough I enjoy taking my time with string changes, take all the strings off. Clean her up. Give her a once over, maybe a bit of polish if needed. Then stringing her back up.

 

 

Yep!

I use that time to return some TLC to my guitar also.

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Here's the way I change my strings:

 

1. Loosen old string several turns with cheap plastic winder to make it slack.

 

2. Cut string with toenail clipper in the middle.

 

3. Pull bridge pin with my teeth and remove bridge end of string.

 

4. Unwind tuning peg end and remove that.

 

5. Put new string in to bridge pin hole.

 

6. With a drift and hammer put bridge pin in tightly. Pegs never come up while tuning.

 

7. On tuning peg end slip string through hole and tie a double knot to hold.

 

8. Tighten string with plastic winder, tuning at least 1 step sharp to stretch string.

 

9. Tap bridge pins again to make sure they're still seated.

 

10 Cut extra string with nailclipper.

 

11. While holding guitar in playing position I grab the headstock and pull back sharply just to make sure the neck relief is ok.

 

 

 

BigAl :facepalm::lol:

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Here's the way I change my strings:


1. Loosen old string several turns with cheap plastic winder to make it slack.


2. Cut string with toenail clipper in the middle.


3. Pull bridge pin with my teeth and remove bridge end of string.


4. Unwind tuning peg end and remove that.


5. Put new string in to bridge pin hole.


6. With a drift and hammer put bridge pin in tightly. Pegs never come up while tuning.


7. On tuning peg end slip string through hole and tie a double knot to hold.


8. Tighten string with plastic winder, tuning at least 1 step sharp to stretch string.


9. Tap bridge pins again to make sure they're still seated.


10 Cut extra string with nailclipper.


11. While holding guitar in playing position I grab the headstock and pull back sharply just to make sure the neck relief is ok.




BigAl
:facepalm::lol:

 

What weight hammer?

 

That would make a great YouTube video..... :snax:

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Armed with my new Ernie Ball PowerPeg winder I used this technique on one of my electrics this weekend and it worked great. I still took my time and gave Vera a proper cleaning and oiled the fretboard after I took all the strings off like I always do but once I got around to putting on the new strings it only took about 4 minutes as opposed to the 15-20 it would before. In the past I always had troubles with the high B and E strings but with this method they go on nice and simple.

 

-Kit

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I never put the string through the hole first as it only encourages early breakage-especially the G.

Here's what I do; it's quick, neat and doesn't involve knots, bends, loops or anything which doesn't do much except over-complicate things.

 

1. Fit the string in the bridge

2. Keeping it taut bring it up to the tuner and put two or three (for the G,B,E) turns around the post

3. Thread the free end through the hole ABOVE the turns you just put on

4. Pull the free end through, tight, to lock-off the string

5. Tune to pitch, cut of the excess length of string and you're done.

 

You'll notice as you tune up to pitch that the string winds up the post and locks itself off at the hole.

How hard is that?:)

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Armed with my new
winder I used this technique on one of my electrics this weekend and it worked great. I still took my time and gave Vera a proper cleaning and oiled the fretboard after I took all the strings off like I always do but once I got around to putting on the new strings it only took about 4 minutes as opposed to the 15-20 it would before. In the past I always had troubles with the high B and E strings but with this method they go on nice and simple.


-Kit

 

 

I had a mandolin named Vera. Cool looking little drill critter.

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Would rather take my time, clean up the guitar, etc. What's the rush?

 

 

I hear ya there, but it was a fast change for the most part.

 

I like to do nice clean up on the fret board when I do a string change.

 

 

I also do the under post warp technique when I put of strings.

 

so it goes through the post hole first ( leave plenty of slack to wing the string)

take the end and wrap it around and under what will be the first winding on the post.

 

post on the right hand side get the counter clockwise wrap and posts on the left hand side ( including all Fender strats and tele's) get the clockwise warp.

 

This kinda locks the strings down and pushed the next winding on the string down into the head stock.

 

I have used this method for the past 33 years

 

If I had the job string guitars all day at the Taylor factory, you bet I'd use the same method seen in the video.

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Not that speed is important when changing strings, but this is fast and efficient:

http://www.elixirstrings.com/whatsnew/techtips.html?xcmp=iggElixNewsMar09_text_techtips

 

I just tried this method on my Tak with the Martin-style headstock a couple od days ago. It went pretty well and though I didn't time it I'd say that it couldn't have taken me more than 10 minutes - probably half as long as it would normally take.

 

...now as for changing strings on my electric, there's gotta be a quicker way to string/tune a guitar with a Floyd Rose II floating tremelo bridge and locking nut. This is a big reason why I stopped playing my Kramer 610 - that and the fact that it's a clunky POS with substandard parts. :facepalm:

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