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Soldering experts... help me choose a decent iron off the internet!

Fender&EHX4ever

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Fender&EHX4ever Newbie

Fender&EHX4ever

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Please send a link if possible.

 

My soldering skills are terrible at best, though I've done quite a few of my own repairs over the years.

 

I've been using the $6 cheapies from my local electronics surplus store, but they always end up dying, and they take too long to heat up. Also, I have a hard time finding the replacement tips for them.

 

I'm ready to upgrade to something better, but I don't want to spend more than $50 if possible. I want it to melt the solder quickly so as to avoid burning components. I also want something where the tips are easy to replace.

 

Lastly, what's the best way to keep your soldering tips clean?

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lefort_1 Newbie

lefort_1

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Here's another variable Weller, in your range, but it lacks the universally-accepted BLUE housing.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333297161&sr=8-1

 

 

BUT, the ST-series tips may be harder to find at your local stores.

OH WAIT WHAT AM I THINKING BRICK-N-MOTOR IS DEAD LONG LIVE THE INTERNETZ

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soapbladder Newbie

soapbladder

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The one they sell at buildyourownclone is $20 and is more than halfway decent.

 

It's on amazon for $24.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Stahl-Tools-Variable-Temperature-Soldering/dp/B0029N70WM/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_b

 

They sell replacement tips on Amazon too. The how-to soldering guides on byoc are great if your technique is off.

 

For pedal stuff make sure that you are using small diameter solder and nothing to thick.

 

SB

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ledfloyd Newbie

ledfloyd

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Watch a few soldering tutorials on YouTube. Stay away from the new Weller stuff their quality has really gone downhill the last few years. I don't have a good recommendation for a pencil-type iron but if you want to get something that will last and be temp. controlled I'd look at something like the Edsyn 951DX. always keep your tip tinned so that it's silvery, clean and reapply new solder as needed to keep it as bright/silvery as soon as it starts to soot up that interferes with getting proper heat to the components. just wipe the tip on a wet sponge and reapply solder right away.

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lefort_1 Newbie

lefort_1

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Hako prices are encouraging, but a Hako iron is the only one I've ever seen burst into flames.

OK, it was the control box, but seriously....flames.

That was 10 years ago...maybe they are better now...or maybe an onboard Halon system?

 

 

 

 

One other thing to consider, especially if you are new, is an auto-shutoff capability. Your fire-insurance will thank you.

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Moustache_Bash Newbie

Moustache_Bash

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This is my old standby, but it's twice your price:


 

 

+1. When I was shopping around I had the same price range as you, F4E. But, I figured I would just try to go for something more quality because having inadequate tools is always upsetting and makes a huge difference.

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CodeMonk Newbie

CodeMonk

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Weller irons all the way.

Hakko is good too I have heard.

I had my favorite Weller iron die last year.

I had been using it since 1985. And it was used when I got it.

 

For keeping tips clean...

I have always used a damp sponge.

Never had it cause any problems with using a sponge on soldering iron tips.

And I have been soldering all sorts of things (from radar detectors to space shuttles and all sorts of stuff in between) since 1981.

 

Some people will say that a damp sponge is bad (I disagree) and you should use this:

http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-SH-1025-Soldering-Tip-Cleaner/dp/B001D8PA3U/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1333301696&sr=8-13

 

But make sure you buy quality tips regardless of which method you use

 

Also This :

http://www.amazon.com/CaiKleenTM-TPC-Tinner-Cleaner-14-2/dp/B001DSYX6U/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1333301696&sr=8-12

 

Radio shack also has .some...

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062721

That little tin will probably last 20 years.

I usually only use it when I am done soldering and going to turn the iron off.

If you accidently leave your iron on overnight, it will get all messed up. That stuff will make it look like new again (providing the tip hasn't started to disintegrate)

 

Wattage is important too.

I suggest 30 watts minimum.

 

Low wattage iron can actually damage components.

The idea is to get in and out as quickly as you can.

A low wattage iron will require more time to heat things up, making damage to sensitive components more likely.

If it takes you more than 1 second to solder a joint, that's too long.

Ground planes are different, they can take longer sometimes.

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Fender&EHX4ever Newbie

Fender&EHX4ever

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Weller irons all the way.

Hakko is good too I have heard.

I had my favorite Weller iron die last year.

I had been using it since 1985. And it was used when I got it.


For keeping tips clean...

I have always used a damp sponge.

Never had it cause any problems with using a sponge on soldering iron tips.

And I have been soldering all sorts of things (from radar detectors to space shuttles and all sorts of stuff in between) since 1981.


Some people will say that a damp sponge is bad (I disagree) and you should use this:

http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-SH-1025-Soldering-Tip-Cleaner/dp/B001D8PA3U/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1333301696&sr=8-13


But make sure you buy quality tips regardless of which method you use


Also This :

http://www.amazon.com/CaiKleenTM-TPC-Tinner-Cleaner-14-2/dp/B001DSYX6U/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1333301696&sr=8-12


Radio shack also has .some...

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062721

That little tin will probably last 20 years.

I usually only use it when I am done soldering and going to turn the iron off.

If you accidently leave your iron on overnight, it will get all messed up. That stuff will make it look like new again (providing the tip hasn't started to disintegrate)


Wattage is important too.

I suggest 30 watts minimum.


Low wattage iron can actually damage components.

The idea is to get in and out as quickly as you can.

A low wattage iron will require more time to heat things up, making damage to sensitive components more likely.

If it takes you more than 1 second to solder a joint, that's too long.

Ground planes are different, they can take longer sometimes.

 

 

Awesome info! Thank you :)

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V Newbie

V

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Yeah I use that weller posted first. Works great, so far. I haven't heard about weller quality issues, myself. Really, it's worth it to get a nice iron. You won't be frustrated with it and your results will be far far better than with one of those cheapo irons.

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amp_surgeon Newbie

amp_surgeon

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Weller irons all the way.

Radio shack also has .some...


That little tin will probably last 20 years.

I usually only use it when I am done soldering and going to turn the iron off.

If you accidently leave your iron on overnight, it will get all messed up. That stuff will make it look like new again (providing the tip hasn't started to disintegrate)

 

 

I agree with everything you've said except for this, especially if you're using a Weller iron. That stuff contains tin and copper, which are generally good for your soldering iron tip. However, it also contains a significant amount of an ammonia compound that is very aggressive. Weller tips are made from a copper core with an iron jacket, and covered with a thin alloy plating. Iron and copper corrode quickly, especially when they're heated and exposed to the air. Even a pinhole in the plating can cause your tip to start disintegrating from the inside.

 

Use that stuff only if your tip appears to be shot and you don't have a replacement tip handy. It might salvage the tip enough so that you can finish your project. Use it frequently and you're only accelerating how fast your tips will burn out. That stuff was formulated primarily for solid copper or solid iron soldering tips. It eats through the corrosion and covers the metal with a coating of tin. With Weller tips it can eat through the outer plating, which is not what you want.

 

Clean and tin the tip BEFORE each solder joint. Don't clean it after - just leave the molten solder on it, though you can shake off blobs of solder if it's too wet. That coating of solder will protect the tip better than anything else. Don't worry about the crusty flux residue. It floats to the surface of the solder, and it will wipe off easily the next time you wipe the tip on the sponge.

 

Also, don't use activated fluxes with Weller irons for the same reason as above. They eat through the plating on the tip. Water soluble fluxes can do the same thing - they were originally designed for wave soldering followed by aqueous cleaning systems. Pure rosin or no-clean fluxes are the mildest, and best to use with Weller irons.

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CodeMonk Newbie

CodeMonk

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I agree with everything you've said except for this, especially if you're using a Weller iron. That stuff contains tin and copper, which are generally good for your soldering iron tip.
However, it also contains a significant amount of an ammonia compound that is very aggressive.
Weller tips are made from a copper core with an iron jacket, and covered with a thin alloy plating. Iron and copper corrode quickly, especially when they're heated and exposed to the air. Even a pinhole in the plating can cause your tip to start disintegrating from the inside.


Use that stuff only if your tip appears to be shot and you don't have a replacement tip handy.
It might salvage the tip enough so that you can finish your project. Use it frequently and you're only accelerating how fast your tips will burn out. That stuff was formulated primarily for solid copper or solid iron soldering tips. It eats through the corrosion and covers the metal with a coating of tin. With Weller tips it can eat through the outer plating, which is not what you want.


Clean and tin the tip BEFORE each solder joint. Don't clean it after - just leave the molten solder on it, though you can shake off blobs of solder if it's too wet. That coating of solder will protect the tip better than anything else. Don't worry about the crusty flux residue. It floats to the surface of the solder, and it will wipe off easily the next time you wipe the tip on the sponge.


Also, don't use activated fluxes with Weller irons for the same reason as above. They eat through the plating on the tip. Water soluble fluxes can do the same thing - they were originally designed for wave soldering followed by aqueous cleaning systems. Pure rosin or no-clean fluxes are the mildest, and best to use with Weller irons.

 

Didn't realize there was ammonia in that stuff. Good to know.

And I probably should have been more specific about it.

Or re-worded it a bit....

For awhile there, I had an off brand iron (Some POS from walmart I think) and could not find tips. So a bought some solid copper wire (12 - 14 gauge I think) made my own tips. They never lasted very long but that stuff helped increase their life a little bit.

I don't really use it all that often, mainly when the sponge or anything else I would use to clean the tip would not clean it enough to allow solder to stick to it.

 

My normal practice is to clean the tip on the sponge, then tap it on the tray on the iron base to make sure there isn't any dross still on it.

 

I ran a few wave solder machines back in the early - mid 80's. One place used the water soluble flux, and I used another machine that was about the size of 3 normal washing machines, with a conveyor that I would put the boards on.

I had some of the coolest "toys" in the plant in my room.

Although the wave solder machine looked like it was made in the 60's, it was very finicky, but it did a damn good job once you set it up properly. Don't remember the name but it was green with a tan hood :).

 

I miss those days.

 

When I worked at JPL, we got a bunch of chips (SMD) that had leads that were really messed up. Dirty, Oxidation. Un-solder-able.

These were $1,600 chips so we could't just toss them and get new ones. They were used in the Galileo probe that went to Jupiter.

We used water soluble flux before tinning and that worked very well. Normal flux didn't do {censored}.

They told me they were $1,600 chips after I dropped one on the floor. Leads got all bent and was unusable.

They didn't even bat an eye. They just said "Send it to engineering and let them play with it".

 

I miss those days too.

 

 

Ok...sorry..I'm done re-living the past...for now :)

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echodeluxe Newbie

echodeluxe

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I have this iron:

 

http://www.xytronic-usa.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=23

 

It is an "entry level" iron, but I am really happy with it.

 

The one thing I'm not crazy about is that the tip is placed over a ceramic heater, which isn't super durable, but I'm not throwing this thing around.

 

Other than that it was affordable, it heats up fast, it is easy to control the temperature, and the tips are good quality. I've bought a few tips, and they all last really long. If I had to choose between using this one or a welled station, its a toss up. It's a great station.

 

Amp_surgeon has used it! Ask him.

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