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About KevinTJH

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  1. That is a very valid question as it differs from each individual. To me, it’s overall length (being able to fit as a plane carry-on) and lightweight (as a bonus). It’s pretty important to me that the guitar “feels” like a normal guitar as much as possible, that’s why I never took much of an interest from Steinberg’s and Hofner’s travel guitar. I would prefer the standard 24.75 and 25.5 scale length as I mostly play in lower tunings. The “perfect” travel guitar for me would be one that has all the usual curves and contours of your standard guitar, while having all the areas that your forearm wouldn’t notice, cut off. That’s why I’m pretty keen to mod a guitar kit. I also think it’ll be a fun little project! I travel a bit for very short periods at a time so I want something convenient. My expensive leather hardcases get too much of a beating every time they come with me. PS: I got the Vox Amplug 2 and it’s amazing. I’ve also got an iRig 2 for the digital amps I run on my iPad.
  2. Will do! It probably won't be for a while though, but I probably will if I get stuck along the way too. "Not as elegant"? I think mine will probably be more on the tacky-side, but I don't mind the home-made look at all. Yes, you are right about the description. I should definitely bring it to their attention because it's rather misleading.
  3. I have been wanting a full-scale travel-electric guitar for some time but I have never come across one that really ticks all the boxes for me. I got a some inspiration from these: [img2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/i1189.photobucket.com\/albums\/z437\/KevinTJH\/maxresdefault_zpsuuxijqdm.jpg"}[/img2] [img2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/i1189.photobucket.com\/albums\/z437\/KevinTJH\/nGlX.03_tcd_blk_front_detail_jpg_zpsxxjwmaaa.jpg"}[/img2] So I was wondering if I could potentially build one myself from modifying an existing DIY guitar kit with limited wood-working tools? I'm also thinking of adding a little handle on the body for the fun of it. [img2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/i1189.photobucket.com\/albums\/z437\/KevinTJH\/download_zpsr3jwayci.jpeg"}[/img2] Due to my relationship with a particular supplier, I can get these DIY kits at cost price. I would like to challenge myself at getting this done with a budget of $50 to spend additional on top of the guitar kit. The 2 options I'm considering are either the Tele or Strat kit: https://kookaburramusictree.com/coll...e-no-soldering https://kookaburramusictree.com/coll...al-tuner-picks For the Tele kit, I was thinking of cutting the body straight down (including through the metal plate) just after the volume knob since I do not care about the tone knob at all. Then, glue on a small block of wood to fill the bottom. I will re-drill a new hole for the jack. If I could get this done cheaply enough, I may even make a spare as a backup. This guitar will solely be for practicing while I'm traveling so it doesn't have to sound top notch. What are your thoughts, guys? How cheaply could you make a practical travel guitar like this?
  4. Thanks, Garthman. I don't feel proud about being content with this repair job but it'll have to do for this occasion I suppose.
  5. Wow! I didn't mean to start a huge debate from my humble quest for opinions. I'm so sorry, guys! Apologies for the late response as I have been out and about for the whole of December.
  6. Waaaaait. This is only a temporary fix?!? What will happen if I don't do anything about it? Would a permanent fix mean pulling off the entire bridge and re-glueing it? Are there any other alternatives to this? Would having glue squirted underneath make the difference of making this a permanent fix? As in, could I potentially make a putty out of wood dust and wood glue and apply it with a credit card or so? I'll be masking off the surrounding area of course. That's correct. I'm not bothered about the black circle dots at all. It's merely just filling those gaps. If you look closely, there are not just gaps between the bridge and soundboard, there are also gaps where the bridge wood has split a little as well.
  7. I own a gorgeous mid-high end Guild 12-string guitar in mint condition but it has had the unfortunate fate of a lifted bridge. I took the guitar to my trusted guitar tech that I have been seeing for years and he reassured me that drilling 2 screws into the bridge would fix the problem straight away as he didn't recommend pulling out the entire bridge and re-glueing it. And so, he did just that. When I let the strings ring out and put weight on the bridge, there is no tonal change so I'm rather confident that there is absolutely no movement on the bridge anymore. It's really just more of a cosmetic issue at this stage. I picked up some wood putty from my local hardware store but wanted to get some opinions and advice first before risking damaging this guitar. Look forward to the input of some of you experts! Thanks in advance!
  8. I'm just about to hit the stage again with my band with a setlist of some hardhitting rock tracks, most of which require a backing track (synths, strings, sound effects etc..). This means having the band speed up even the tiniest bit would completely ruin the entire song. I've been doing a lot of research on affordable solutions but I can't seem to find what I'm looking for. This is what I'm trying to achieve: - Backing track plugged into PA from a device (iPad/iPhone) to be heard through speakers on stage - Backing track to also be played into Drummer's Stereo In-ears (click-track on 1 ear and backing track on other ear) BONUS: - Wireless In-ears for all 5 band members (including Drummer) for us all to hear exactly what the Drummer hears Does anyone have a solution to this? Unfortunately, I don't have a lot to spend on this so my priority would be to just get something for the drummer. Thank you so much in advance! My thought on the solution for the track only: - Import the backing track into a DAW and pan it fully to the Right (or viseversa) - Create a separate click track and pan it fully to the Left - Use a Stereo mixer (or some sort) - Drummer will get the Stereo Input; The stage speakers will only get a Mono Input (Right side) Would this work?
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