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Ignorant/Agnostic regarding many guitar attributes


Brainfertilizer

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I read all the debates over scale length, string gauge, and neck carve with interest...but to be honest, I really can't tell much difference.

 

When it gets to extremes I can tell, I guess...but when I pick up a guitar, I play it.

 

I don't notice any difference in neck carve unless it gets to Wizard thinness and/or 2x4 thickness. I certainly couldn't tell you which of my guitars is a C, D, or V carve neck.

 

If I told you any of my string gauges on any of my (26) guitars, I would really just be guessing.

 

And I switch between 24.5" and 25.5" scale length guitars without noticing it...again, if I told you the scale length of any of my guitars, it would only be because I memorized what someone told me or I'm guessing.

 

Should I feel happy that the issues that bedevil many guitarists are non-issues for me (letting me enjoy more guitars), or should I feel vexed that I am completely clueless on very important aspects of guitar professionalism?

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I'm not real anal, either, but you could definitely tell if a guitar had a v neck on it or not, chances are none of yours do. It's a pretty drastic change, as you'll feel the point, although blunt.

 

I couldn't tell you the difference between fretboard radii, either, but I know when I'm going from my LP style to a strat style by the scale length, just by how much further you have to travel between frets.

 

So I do believe you, and I'm similar, but there are some differences that are too concrete to not notice.

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I'm not real anal, either, but you could definitely tell if a guitar had a v neck on it or not, chances are none of yours do. It's a pretty drastic change, as you'll feel the point, although blunt.


I couldn't tell you the difference between fretboard radii, either, but I know when I'm going from my LP style to a strat style by the scale length, just by how much further you have to travel between frets.


So I do believe you, and I'm similar, but there are some differences that are too concrete to not notice.

fingerboard radius: I knew there was something else I was agnostic about... :)

Actually, can tell the difference between a flat radius and a rounded radius because I do lots of string-bending.

But I can work with any radius pretty much equally well. (or is that: equally badly?)

 

I probably haven't played on a v-shaped neck carve...

 

Ibanez (and shredders in general) typically use D-carves, right? And C-carves are the default for most mainline guitars?

 

Are there any popular guitars that predominantly use v-carves?

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I say concentrate on the things that you feel make a difference. If you come across something that makes you unhappy with the playability or tone then just come here and ask away. As much crap that is on forums like these that's one of things that makes it great. The ability to get educated pretty fast on something. Now that the search function is working again it makes it that much better.

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V necks are found mostly on older guitars.

 

As far as being a gearhead goes, it doesn't matter if you are or not. As long as you can find guitars you like, that's all that matters. I enjoy tech stuff but it honestly all goes by the way when I'm playing. It's not a contest.

 

EG

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If I told you any of my string gauges on any of my (26) guitars, I would really just be guessing.

 

 

I'm pretty much in the same ballpark as you are, but then I'm nobody's shredder. But when it comes to the string gauges, the guitar's set up has a lot to do with it. I've had a set of 11s play about as easy as a set of 9s when the guitar had an exceptional set up. I'm usually purchasing the gauge based more on desired tone than for feel. I often find the jangling twang of a set of 9s can really help a guitar that's on the dark side, like the Fender Reissue '72 Tele for example. For a guitar that's bright, I go thicker and go to pure nickel wrap instead of plated.

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When it comes to necks, I prefer the soft "V" but only one of my guitars has it.

 

Each of my other guitars is different... scale... neck shape... electronics... colors... whatever, I love 'em all. I don't even see what the big fuss is about switching back and forth between them.

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I agree except the string gauge, how come you can't tell, even slightly thicker strings tuned the same are tighter making bends hard and painful, and I also find thick tight strings lack brightness, as some describe they start sounding like rubber.

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...some of the neck profiles that are close i cant really tell to much...my LP is fat (50's profile), my Peavey is thin, and my Explorer is somewhere in between...thats how i look at it...a different scale takes all of about 5 mins to get used to as do frets, and necks for that matter (a benefit to stinking equally on all guitars :)) I play 10's as far as strings go so if there are 9's or 11's on an ax im able to tell that they dont feel the same but i could'nt tell you if they were 8's or 9's or 11's or 12's...none of these things would disuade me from buying a certian guitar, anthough i now realize that i dont like super thin necks and they actually tire my hand out.....

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If you notice something enough to care, it's important to you and if you don't then it's not... so don't worry about it. :) You have to watch for care and upkeep of an instrument but the measurements of the specs don't necessarily figure into that so you can do just fine remaining ignorant to those issues.

 

Some things I do care about because they effect FEEL... I do notice a difference in scale length because on shorter scale lengths, there is less tension on the strings but my right picking hand does not meet the strings for palm-muting in the correct place (I call 25.5 inch scale length "correct"). I have to scoot my right hand up toward the neck and it's not a huge difference but I notice.

 

String gauge does make a big difference... at least for me.

 

Also, the shape of the back of the neck I do notice but I'm not even aware of my fretboard radius! I would probably feel it if I went to a different fretboard radius but I don't know the numbers. Also, the size of many individual components I have no clue on. If I had to replace the tuning pegs, for example... I would have to do some research first.

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Also, I swear I've never been able to tell the difference between string BRANDS. If strings are made of different materials, they sound different. If they are different gauges, they sound different. But if you were to tell me that a set of nickel-plated steel size 10 strings from Company A SOUNDS noticeably different than a set of nickel-plated steel size 10 strings from Company B, you're lying. I always play Ernie Ball but only because they're affordable, they're ubiquitous and available everywhere and they last without breaking (at least for me) so I just grab them and go. I could get D'addarios or Dean Markley or GHS and I'd be just as good.

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I can feel differences in scale length and neck profile and fretboard radius, but they don't really bother me. In my band, I play bass 1/2 the time and guitar 1/2 the time, so I'm switching from a 34" scale to a 25.5" or 24.75" scale all night long and it doesn't really throw me off. :idk:

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I can tell the differences right away and to be honest I like the differences between them. The only neck I don't like is the Wizard style paper thin things and that's just because I get cramps on them.

 

But if I could only get along with one type then I'd probably only own one guitar.

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Wish my left hand could tolerate wide differences in neck carve, it'd make things much easier. It's super sensitive that way, not much room for variety there.

 

Like a smaller fingerboard radius because I mostly play rhythm, but I can hack through flat boards reasonably well.

 

Used to think that neck width was a killer for me, but neck carve turned out to be the culprit there. I can handle a range of widths.

 

Prefer 25" scale length, but have and like 24.75" and 25.5" axes; mild preference only.

 

Prefer lighter string gauges, but again just a minor preference.

 

So I guess I'm super picky, eh? :lol:

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I will play pretty much anything. I do not always enjoy other peoples set ups or their pieces but try to see the benefit in everything unless it is just poorly set up and the intonation is for {censored}.

 

I have almost always been a Stratocaster type player and do have to do some adjustment issue when moving to Les Pauls and teles but that is short lived.

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Just find a neck that fits the hand and doesnt strain the wrist playing difficult parts and you're set for playability. Tone is the other part of the equasion of course. The way i look at it is you have different guitars for different purposes. If you owned a Vet, a Jeep, and a pickup, they all get you from point A to point B. What you may choose to drive though is going to vary depending on what you need to do.

 

If you were going out and playing lead all night may differe from what you choose if you were going to sing and play chords for example. Since the material you may play varies from person to person, band to band will also vary so what constitutes good tone or playability to one person may suck for another. Even with the same guitar and amp one person will dial in a different tone from another or have a different fretboard style and picking so theres just no right or wrong here. Its simply whatever works to allow you tp play your ass off. It is fun to discuss all the options, but theres so many options that its just a personal decision as to what will work for you.

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I can tell the difference between my strat neck and my tele neck.

 

Knowing which one I prefer though is a whole different storey. I don't think I really have a preference.

 

I don't like 24.75" scale guitars though, don't know why (and yes, I can easily tell the difference).

 

I'd like to try out a mahogany strat though to see if it actually affects the tone at all.

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There are people that play and there are people that bitch about every teeny, tiny little detail as if those details will keep you from being able to even play a single E chord.

 

We all have our preferences and those preferences change and may even do a 180 as you become more experienced, but the bottom line is: If you plug a LP Standard into a Marshall DSL and can't bring the rock, then it's on you. :lol:

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I'm confused.

 

I'm confused about what you're confused about. It seems straightfoward to me.

 

I have a bunch of guitars. They are of different scale lengths. I usually just keep using the strings that are on them. I do lots of string bending in my style.

 

And yet, I couldn't tell you which guitars were of which scale length, or which guitars had which gauge of strings on them.

 

I think it is because I learned to play guitar on a 12-string at age 16. Then I stopped playing guitar and played only bass for the next 6 years. And even after I picked up guitar again at age 22, I still played bass for another decade.

 

So any guitar strings are equally light compared to bass strings and 12-string dual strings.

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I notice subtle differences in a flash, regarding everything originally posted. How could you not feel the difference in string gauge on a short scale guitar? They feel tremendously different to me. 9's on a gibby feel like spaghetti and 11's on a strat feel like cables...?

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