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The Goldtop Transmogrification Thread


Guitar Heel

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After I sprayed the primer I waited for it to dry a bit then wet sanded from 400 to 1000 grit. I spent some time with the magnifying glass looking for imperfections and working them out. I always try to remember that your next coat is only as good as your last one.

I peeled all my tape back to check the lines and clean them up. Good lines don't just happen either. The tape line for the gold actually has to be moved just a hair anyway so off it came.
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EG

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So then the gold began. Everything was going beautifully. I followed all Reranch instructions...shaking, holding the can back, light coats, heat the can, don't touch, etc...and it was looking like this.
HPIM0801.jpg

I was almost ready to quit spraying gold when disaster struck. :eek:
The can, in mid pass across the body, decided it needed to puke. It splurted out a big glop right between the bridge posts. :mad: The weird thing about the gold paint is that you can not let it flow on the body. You have to almost let it drift down on the surface. Well, this glop wasn't so much a flow as a puddle. This is what it looked like when it dried.
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So, I stopped work to figure out what to do.

EG

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I ended up having to do a light sand job on the whole surface, using 320 and 400 dry followed by some polishing with a cloth. This, of course, knocked all the metallic particles loose and dulled it. After this, another can of gold paint was procured and the process began again. This time, no can puking.
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It can't get any more gold than it is, so I'm calling it done.
Tomorrow, I'll spray the clear. :thu:

EG

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Holy crap gentlemen. This really looks awesome so far.

EG, I'm glad you've got the expertise to tackle a beast project like this, and thanks for showing us the progress.

You've motivated to get me back on my Xaviere strat bodywork. I'm doing the top colored and the sides/back unfinished like a goldtop, with a multicolored top to be decided later.

I chose to tackle the binding problem on a strat by hand-sanding a 1/2" bevel to remove the contours of the top. I'll decide the color of the bevel, to act as a faux binding, when I pin down the top design.

Carry on gents. Lovely work.

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Yep, I'm planning my retirement.

 

As long as this is here, an update...

I pulled all the tape off to clean up the line and retape for the clear. There were some blemishes along the border between the gold and the original cherry. I spent the last several days touching that up, getting that line factory perfect.

So, it's all taped up now waiting for the humidity to clear out.

 

 

EG

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Well, the nitro actually dries very quickly, though it remains soft for a month.

The gold is a whole different story. That stuff is really fragile. They even have a label on the can: "Warning. Must be clearcoated."

This gold is probably the strangest paint I've ever used. There is no pigment in the paint at all besides the bronze powder. You have to use some pretty specific techniques to get it to look like it does. Very finicky.

 

EG

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Your colourcoat is most likely aluminium flake pigment (exactly the same as in a silver finish) and some transparent yellow pigment to make it look like the flakes are gold coloured.

It's a bit difficult to tell from the photos, but it looks like there are a couple of things that could be happening:

Firstly the clearcoat could be re-dissolving the yellow pigment from the colourcoat and making it float up to the top of the clearcoat and giving a different colour appearance. Is the clear you are using compatible with the colour coat?

Secondly you could have flake "stand-up":

For the maximum colour effect the flake pigment should all be lying parallel to the surface of the guitar (like this: _-_--__-_-__--_)

When you spray the colourcoat on as lightly as you describe, then the flake pigment will be held in random orientations (like this: -_|/-/--/-_-/|).

The flakes will be in the region of about 100-150 microns diameter and so the ones that are standing on end will stick through the clearcoat which will only be 10 - 15 microns thick at the moment. As you build the clearcoat the tops of the flakes will be covered and you should be able to get a smooth finish eventually.

Great thread, hope this helps. :thu:

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