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ksl

Light Tremolo Springs??

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Hey all~ Aside from the the Raw Vintage trem springs, which I have no experience with, are there any springs that are truly lighter than the stock ones? It's not a matter of simply using less springs as my 2 springs almost become unhinged as I whammy back(sharp), and I need to create more stretch with less pull. One spring's not enough & 2's too much,¬† and I like my block resting in the middle position. This is my 1st DIY, & everything is a first, but this situation is my only stumbling block. ūü§Ē
Thanks 
ūüēČ

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By the time I get the claw into the body enough so the springs down fall off, the trem block is all the way against the cavity. 

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Wait a minute ,it seems to me that the spring tension needs to be equal to the string tension, I'm not an expert in physics who can discuss leverage and fulcrums and mechanical advantage ,but at the end of the equation there needs to be balance.  Balance is required to keep the trem centered . To think that this balance is so radically different on your strat than on every other strat on the planet makes me suspect that you are doing something  illogical 

Pics would help and maybe even prove me wrong

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1 hour ago, gardo said:

Wait a minute ,it seems to me that the spring tension needs to be equal to the string tension, I'm not an expert in physics who can discuss leverage and fulcrums and mechanical advantage ,but at the end of the equation there needs to be balance.  Balance is required to keep the trem centered . To think that this balance is so radically different on your strat than on every other strat on the planet makes me suspect that you are doing something  illogical 

Pics would help and maybe even prove me wrong

You're right. It has to be balanced.

His issue is with the spring stiffness and the amount of travel. A lower spring constant will require more stretch to delivery a given amount of force.  The more spring is stretched to keep the bar at equilibribriim, the more range the trek will have when he pulls up on the bar before bottoming out.

My question is why is there so little force on the bridge that two springs aren't stretched enough to give good range.

Super light strings, down tuning, or a bridge with too much float?

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28 minutes ago, mrbrown49 said:

You're right. It has to be balanced.

His issue is with the spring stiffness and the amount of travel. A lower spring constant will require more stretch to delivery a given amount of force.  The more spring is stretched to keep the bar at equilibribriim, the more range the trek will have when he pulls up on the bar before bottoming out.

My question is why is there so little force on the bridge that two springs aren't stretched enough to give good range.

Super light strings, down tuning, or a bridge with too much float?

You are correct. We really need more info

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Thanks all,,, Due to post-surgery restrictions for a trigger finger, I now have 8-38's on there, but in better days I will get back my 9 or 9.5's, no down-tuning. I'm trying to float in the 50/50 position. I guess I need springs that will stretch further, but not block my block, & not stiffen up the trem bar action,,,not too soft & not too stiff.....

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have you considered something like the HipShot Tremsetter? The list price is kind of high, but GC and MF have them under $40, last time I looked.

I'm not sure it will compensate for the ultra light gauge you are using, but it might...

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On 2/1/2020 at 1:11 AM, ksl said:

By the time I get the claw into the body enough so the springs down fall off, the trem block is all the way against the cavity. 

I'm not afraid to take chances. if I were faced with this situation I would grind the closed eye off the spring and bend down  the next coil to form a new one.( Be careful of the  sharp edge)  If it doesn't  work so what springs aren't that expensive. putting a rod through the spring to the last coil should hold the spring straight . Put the rood  in a vise .Then a pair of dikes or maybe even a screwdriver and probably a vise grip could be used to bend a new eye. I have done this with other springs.and it can be a little tricky to get started.  If it works great ,if you ruin a spring so what The end won't be as pretty as a factory bend but do what you need to

Edited by gardo

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What I'd like to know is the exact kind of guitar/tremolo You're using.  By your description, the springs shouldn't have anything to do with your problem. If you're bending back and having springs fall out your string tension is "Way" too loose and you should set things back to factory specs.  Maybe go back to using 9's or 10's too.  9's with a floating bridge feel more like 8's because the springs give when barring chords or bending strings.  8's feel more like 7's.     

Some bridges are designed to float at a 50/50 position and you can bend notes in either direction.  Fender bridges are not designed to work this way.  You need something like a Floyd or Kahler if you want full float.  

Fender Strat bridges have limited range tightening the strings.  Fender recommends setting the bridge 1/8" above the body.   https://support.fender.com/hc/en-us/articles/212774786-How-do-I-set-up-my-Stratocaster-guitar-properly-   A more reliable method is to Tune your guitar to pitch then Pick the G string with a tuner running. When you pull back the note should go from a G to A before the bridge maxes out and touches the body.  G  Adjusting the bridge higher (springs looser) will give you problems with string height, Intonation and tuning.  You want the strings to follow the neck radius not get super high with too much bridge tilt.  You also risk damaging to the whammy bar too. The steel on a Fender bridge isn't super hard. It will either bend, break or damage the threads in the block trying to bend the notes more then they were designed to.   You may get a little flexibility using 8's but its not going to stay in tune very good if you make the strings so loose. 

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