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Active speakers stink...there, I said it...


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Done right, passive can be as fast as active is. I use a digital console.

 

I roll the FOH rack in, take the lids off, and plug in one AC cable.

I roll in amp rack, take lids off and plug in two AC cables.

I pull one Cat5E cable from FOH to amp rack.

I stack the speakers.

I run one speaker cable to each stack, and jumper the rest.

I drop out two Whirlwind mini-12s from the back of the amp rack and put one on front of stage, and one behind drums.

 

Except for mics I am done in about 15 minutes. ;-)

 

(OK, now I have to start running monitors also, so add another 10 minutes to everything. Can't show up as hired sound and expect folks to all want IEMs.)

 

Then I spend 2 hours with truss, stands, follow spot, 16 light cans, 2 light strips, 2 lasers, hazer, 4 scanners, 3 moving heads, dmx cables, and lighting console. ;-(

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I have always been intrigued by your set-up/system,and would really like to hear it sometime.The whole no-amp,electronic drums,and powered system,I still think has to freak some people(who aren't used to it)completely out.And that was even BEFORE you got the new subs!!!

 

 

What freaks them out is our sound checks are silent. We are comfortable enough with the FOH system that we play and soundcheck via IEMs so all they hear are non-amplified vocals, drum sticks hitting a mesh screen and a Gibson 335 without amplification. To us we hear everything loud and clear. We rehearse this way too. The new subs did offer a little change as we dumped the Driverack 260 to use the subs internal crossover. Made a difference in the overall sound since the XLFs put out a bit more than our old MRXs fed from the K1. It is also really nice not having to carry that K1 around with us. While the subs are listed as being heavier, they don't feel like it in the real world. The XLFs were a great investment for us even if they did cause a few gray hairs at the first testing...

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My system / band configuration is similar. I also permanently strapped my subs to a hand cart with an extension nose (one sub per cart). A main, monitor and pole all ride on the cart and there's a backpack strapped to the back with the power cables, mic cables, and 20 foot extension cord reel. We just wheel into place and hook up without having to leave the stack to get things. For fancy gigs it gets covered in black cloth. For bar gigs we just leave it exposed. At the end of the gig we can throw all cables back in the bag, stack the speakers on the subs and roll it to the trailer.


cart.jpg

 

Now you've given me even more ideas how to streamline a bit. That is a great setup you got. A place for everything and everything in its place.

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Now you've given me even more ideas how to streamline a bit. That is a great setup you got. A place for everything and everything in its place.

 

 

There's even a little loop on the backpack, for hanging it on a hook I guess, that the speaker pole slides into perfectly so it acts like a holster. In the picture I have the cord reel strapped to the cart (it's the yellow circle). I've since determined it's best left loose and just put in the backpack as it restricted access to the inputs and kept me from being able to slide the cart up/down steps. If you encounter too many steps you can remove the speakers and just have the sub attached. Titling back far enough exposes the nose, which can be used as a handle to lift the cart and carry it.

 

The cart is a Harper Nylon Hand Truck bought from Hayneedle.com. The 21" nose was purchased from Hand Truck R Us (1/2 down the page in the link.) To get the subs to sit square and not nose dive I slid something like a 12" wide by 3/4" thick by maybe 24" long piece of wood between the sub and the nose.

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There's even a little loop on the backpack, for hanging it on a hook I guess, that the speaker pole slides into perfectly so it acts like a holster. In the picture I have the cord reel strapped to the cart (it's the yellow circle). I've since determined it's best left loose and just put in the backpack as it restricted access to the inputs and kept me from being able to slide the cart up/down steps.


The cart is a
bought from Hayneedle.com. The
was purchased from Hand Truck R Us (1/2 down the page in the link.) To get the subs to sit square and not nose dive I slid something like a 12" wide by 3/4" thick by maybe 24" long piece of wood between the sub and the nose.

 

Your video of your trailer pack is good. You should re-post it.

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I get $h!t for that video from my band mates almost every show. "I haven't watched the video yet", or "I didn't see that in the video". The joke was on them one gig where I had an early flight the next day so I left right after the gig, leaving them to tear down and subsequently load the trailer. They said they loaded and emptied the thing out 3 times before they got everything to fit in it.

 

Here's the video. Fair warning, this is 10 minutes of your life you'll not get back :)

 

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The joke was on them one gig where I had an early flight the next day so I left right after the gig, leaving them to tear down and subsequently load the trailer. They said they loaded and emptied the thing out 3 times before they got everything to fit in it.

 

 

There's diagrams posted to the inside of my trailer showing where everything goes.

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My truck pack was perfect. Everything fit but only one way, it was like a big game of tetris. Now I have lots of room in my trailer, so thats good!



:thu:

And you say that today. Fast forward 2 years and you'll be back to hi score on Tetris but with the trailer pack vs the truck. GAS will get you.

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There's diagrams posted to the inside of my trailer showing where everything goes.

 

That's funny. I mentioned doing that early on and they looked at me like I was crazy. Seems reasonably sane to me. For small trailers you need to know how to make it all fit. For large trailers even weight distribution and load shifting would be a good reason to do it so anyone "helping" can follow along. Instead I get "what goes in next" 50 times a year :facepalm:

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That's funny. I mentioned doing that early on and they looked at me like I was crazy. Seems reasonably sane to me. For small trailers you need to know how to make it all fit. For large trailers even weight distribution and load shifting would be a good reason to do it so anyone "helping" can follow along. Instead I get "what goes in next" 50 times a year
:facepalm:



For years we kind of just packed it rather hap-hazardly. Usually I was the guy inside the trailer "calling the load" because (I guess) I had the best eye for what-would-fit where. But after one of our singers joined the band (who is a bit of an organizational freak) she insisted on coming up with "the" pack and she did the diagrams. We all gave her a bunch of {censored} about it (and still do) and at first it was a pain in the ass because it seemed (well...not seemed...it DID) take longer to follow the diagrams than it did to just pack it up the old way. But now that we've got it down, it IS better.

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So got a response back from Yorkville, they sent me a RA# to send the sub back to them...
They don't mention if it will be covered under warranty or not, but just for me to ship the entire sub it will cost $180...one way...
They also don't say who is paying freight back to me..
2-3 week est. repair time..

Looks like it's going to be firewood, now I really hate active speakers.

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So got a response back from Yorkville, they sent me a RA# to send the sub back to them...

They don't mention if it will be covered under warranty or not, but just for me to ship the entire sub it will cost $180...one way...

They also don't say who is paying freight back to me..

2-3 week est. repair time..


Looks like it's going to be firewood, now I really hate active speakers.

 

 

If it's not covered under warranty, what's the point of sending back to Yorkville?

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If you can isolate it to the amplifier module then see if you can just ship the module back. That's what I've done in the past.

 

 

Going to try a local repair person first...but that is another option if all else fails.

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Yup. Because nothing that falls out of warranty can ever be repaired and there's no other options besides sending it to the dealer.


At least not with actives. With passives it would be different, of course.
:facepalm:



If it comes down to shipping the entire unit to them it's not worth it, not what I can buy them for new.
Going to check local repair guys next.

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