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How to route out a body with the fewest/cheapest tools?


Mr_GoodBomb

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I have no real tools to route with, but two of my pickup routes need widened and I need to cut a small bridging between the neck pocket and the neck pickup route. I checked out a dremel and the cheapest I saw was like 30-40 bucks. I'm not sure what else I can use that's easily accessible. The routes don't have to be perfect, they just have to work.

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A sharp chisel worked for me when I converted an H-H routed strat body to swimming pool so that I could go S-S-S. If you have a hand drill, you can use that to remove bigger chunks of wood by drilling many holes in the area and then use the chisel to break away to bulk of it and smooth the sides of the cuts. Keep the chisel sharp by lapping the cutting edge a few times on a piece of 400 grit paper every 5-10 minutes. You don't even need a hammer, just use hand pressure to move the chisel along so that you maintain control of it.

 

Good luck.

 

Lou

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I have a dremel, but had better results with the chisel. The dremel burns up pretty quickly if you run it too fast, but it's also a good option. It's easy to get good results with the chisel if you take your time and are light handed, but if you are hamfisted and lack finesse, stay away.

 

Lou

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I personally don't like using a Dremel for wood removal, although it's almost mandatory for finishing after you've removed what you want. Keep in mind, you'll probably get a ton of use out of a Dremel if you buy one, even if you can't think of situations where it would help right now.

 

If you're going to use chisels, start by drilling out as much material as possible first (surely there's SOMEBODY you can borrow a drill and some bits from). Start with small bits, moving up to bigger ones until you're using a diameter which reaches the edge of where you want to stop removing material. This makes chiseling easier, and lowers the risk of removing/damaging another portion fo the body.

 

Also, make sure you measure the depth you want to drill, and mark that depth on the drill bit with a flap of masking tape. When you hit that depth, the flap of tape will start brushing away sawdust and you'll know to stop.

 

Also, masking tape on the areas you're drilling (especially on a thick guitar finish) will help keep the finish from flaking off.

 

Good luck, and think a few steps ahead before doing something irreversible. :thu:

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I routed out room for a different pickup on a cheap ($59) SX with a power drill and a 3/8" bit. Used the side of the bit like a router. Took a while but did the job good.

I'd never try this on a guitar that cost any money and I DON'T RECOMMEND IT!

But, it worked.

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rent something

 

 

I agree.

 

And its not usually the router or dremel itself that costs alot, its the damn bits for it. A router will do the job quicker, followed by a dremel. But be forwarned, both the router and dremel spin at crazy rpms which can get the tool away from you real quick---instant relic if you know what i mean. Practice first on some scrap before diving in if you never have used such a tool before. A tool such as a router or dremel (i say more dremel) is a very worthwhile investment. You will be amazed on what you use it for. I use my dremel from doing automotive work/fabrication, to routes on guitars, to renovating my house. In 20 years i have managed to go through three of them because i use them so much. Excellent tool. Buy the proper router bites, they are more expensive, but well worth it. If its a side job, buy the tool and have your buddy kick in for the bits to do the job for him. Make your tools pay for themselves.

 

As stated, a nice new sharp chisel can work with just hand pressure and only light tapping if needed. The trick is not to cut to much at one time. Don't go in thinking 3 or 4 cuts is going to get it done.

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I have used a drill to put several shallow (!!!!!) holes into the body to make the work with the chisel easier and less violent. Just mark the depth you need on the drill bit with some masking tape, drill several holes to chew up some of the wood, and chisel away. It'xs quick and easy, but a little rough-looking.

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When I wanted to put a hum in my last tele project, I bought a refurbished Skill brand router from Amazon for $50 and a a couple of bits for about $15.

 

I ended up afterwards selling the router to my boss for $50. So the total cost of the routing job was $15.

 

As it turned out. I could have done the same thing using a forester bit.

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