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Everything posted by Mr.Grumpy

  1. Who knows? Looks like a homemade pedal, possibly a re-house of a commercially-made pedals. Based on the "Fuzz" "Sweep" and rotary selector and name, it might be an envelope filter ('auto-wah') with fuzz. A "Sitar" pedal, bleah. Danelectro made a Sitar pedal. This pedal looks home-made too, is "Burford Electronics" a real pedal company? Clearly a home-made clone of the "Zen Drive", a famous boutique overdrive known for it's smooth and transparent OD tones. Probably a kit-built clone. This one looks like a commercially-made pedal, from a small "boutique" maker. The only knob I can make out is labeled "Attack", so possibly a vintage style fuzz pedal. "Dirty Little Secret" is an amp-type overdrive pedal sold by boutique pedal company Caitlinbread. I don't think this is that pedal, it looks to me like an OD/Distortion pedal built from a kit from one of the two big kit makers, BYOC or GGG. Looks like a Joyo pedal of some kind, or possibly a "clone kit" from one of the companies I mentioned above. Probably another OD pedal... Based on the controls, it's most likely a compressor. Looks to be a commercially-made boutique pedal. With most pedals it's pretty apparent what they do when they're plugged in and played through... To find out what's really going on, you'll need to at least open up the back and look at the circuit board, and if possible, a look at the component side of the circuit board, and that would probably answer any question as to whether these are commercial pedals that have been put in new or "redecorated" enclosures, or if these are built from kits, perfboard, whatever. IF the 'Shape Shifter' and 'bar code' compressor are commercial products, they may have some value. But they could be home-made pedals too, just with better graphics. Presuming the other pedals are either kits or DIY rehouses, those pedals don't really have any collectible value. Search google, Reverb and this place: https://www.effectsdatabase.com/#
  2. Definitely no tubes. The battery is only to maintain the memory chip that holds your presets. If the internal battery died, you would lose any custom presets you programmed. Pretty sure it wouldn't affect the audio quality. There's many different kinds of noise, each with their own source. There's electric hum ("mains hum" in England) and it's close cousin, buzz. This noise is always at the frequency of your local electric power. There's "white" noise, which is a hissing or whooshing sound, especially common with high gain setups. Of course, high gain makes any noise picked up by your guitar much worse. Are you using the noise gate or hum cancelling features? A digital modeling amp like this is going to be unfriendly to any DIY repair attempts. The most I would attempt would be to spray the smallest possible spritz of De-Ox-Id pot cleaner/lube, but only if: It's an "unsealed" pot. If it's a sealed pot, then the only avenue to get cleaner in is to spray down the pot shaft and sometimes works but then a bunch of crud drips out of the pot and on to the circuit board. I would contact Line6 and see if they have a certified repair center near you. Or, consider that 15 years is a pretty good run and consider upgrading - modeling technology has improved greatly, and there's a good selection of modeling amps out there from Line 6, Fender, Roland/Boss and others.
  3. The shunt grounds the input when nothing is plugged in; it's to prevent open-circuit hum when nothing's plugged into the amp.
  4. They make USB HUBS, which allow you to connect different USB peripheral devices to a single USB port on a computer. They wouldn't work to connect to computers though, and I wouldn't even attempt it. To do what you are wanting to do will almost certainly require a manual switch; I wasn't aware that such a box existed until I did a web search, but it does. It specifically mentions that it's intended for your application: sharing the same peripheral between two PCs (or Macs in your case). https://www.showmecables.com/usb-manual-button-switch-box-2-way?gclid=Cj0KCQjw-NaJBhDsARIsAAja6dPBQWfn45AX5tcc9v1gnL3RKA6VnkaX1d0BIb4SzffrD8u4rpr0T5EaAnuwEALw_wcB
  5. So I bought some wedge cut sound absorbtion foam tiles from the giant "A" mail order place. Surprisingly cheap, about $24 for twelve 1' x 1' (30 cm x 30 cm) tiles that are alledgedly 2" thick (about 50mm). A rather small box arrived, this can't be them, can it? I can hear stuff shaking inside the box loose. Open it up, and it looks like two thick jumbo sized mouse pads that have been shrink-wrapped in clear plastic film. Two bundles less than two inches thick. I'm a little confused at this point, but get out my pocket knife and begin cutting away the shrink wrap... OH!! The foam tiles have been tightly compressed and then shrink wrapped. Each bundle is 12 tiles. Unfortunately, one half of one dozen tiles were apparently shrink-wrapped too quickly after coming out of the foam-making machine; those tiles did not "un-compress" to their normal size. I was able to get some of these prematurely-squished tiles to "fluff up" by using my fingers to lift up the peaks of the wedges, but they're still not at their full thickness. I don't want to deal with returns, so I'll probably just slap these thin ones up in less critical places. Getting "normal" foam tiles like Auralex shipped is expensive because the product is very bulky.
  6. This has been discussed ad nauseum. Where have you been? This place (Harmony Central in general, not just the bass sub-forum) has been a ghost town for several years. I think it was about 10 (?) or so years ago that there was an "extended outage" of the forum due to new forum software being implemented. Then several other forum shutdowns that lasted days at a time. Between those and the rise of Facebook, participation here fell off a cliff. There have been some ownership changes too, it was recently owned by Gibson, not I believe it's owned by Sweetwater Music. Forum founder Craig Anderton and longtime head honcho/moderator Phil have departed. For bass guitar/upright bass forum-ing, I'd recommend Talkbass; they're still pretty active. Some of the other forums seem to have small (very small) groups of regulars that hang out.
  7. It's only one "m": game-if-i-cation. I didn't know either, so I did a g-search: https://www.google.com/search?q=gamification+definition&oq=gamification&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0i131i433i512j0i433i512j0i512l4j69i60.5219j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
  8. Probably a STEREO amp with STEREO chorus!!! Probably has a glorious clean tone.
  9. I wonder if these one-question-and-never-return "posters" are search engine "bots" or something. Maybe just some poor intern at MXR's "social media" team trying to gauge name recognition for their products. Besides EVERYONE knows the best ever boost ever is the GOLD HORSEY KLON! For at least a couple of years, one of our local (Dallas, TX) Guitar Centers had a gold Klon pedal in their used effect display case, priced somewhere around $3,500 as I recall. It's not listed in GC's used gear database, so maybe it sold. Hi, Jodi!!
  10. I built about a half dozen DIY sound absorption panels for my home studio. I used 1 x 4 lumber to make rectangular frames 48" tall by 16" wide, just the right size to go around batts of 3 inch thick "Roxul" mineral wool insulation. Then I covered the exposed surface of the mineral wool with a layer of polyester quilt batting, then covered the whole mess with gray open weave burlap fabric from a craft store. The individual materials aren't too expensive, but with all the materials needed, it adds up quick. I also bought a cheap pneumatic stapler for attaching the fabric to the frame, which was worth the $25 cost. The best stuff to use is rigid mineral wool or fiberglass insulation board, but it's mostly a commercial product so it isn't sold in home improvement stores. You can order it and have it shipped to you, but because it's so bulky, the freight adds a lot to the cost. By the way, it's almost impossible to "soundproof" a room so that a band playing inside can't be heard outside. What you want is to deaden the flutter echoes, ringing and resonances inside to minimize the weird effects especially on bass frequencies.
  11. "All generalizations are false, including this one."
  12. For audio, a Mackie "Big Knob" interface; for MIDI, I just bought a Roland/Edirol "UM-1" , a typical USB dongle type with a the two MIDI plugs on the end of skinny wires. I was previously using a Roland UM-3, which has 3 sets of MIDI ins and outs, but it was very finicky to use with Reaper. It's not that I'm a big user of virtual synths or anything like that, but even a little control surface interface like the Korg NanoKontrol that I somethimes use to control Reaper is actually a USB/MIDI device. My SoundCanvas also uses USB to support two MIDI streams, so I suppose that counts as two MIDI devices. I've read that Windows 7 still has "MIDI mapper" buried in the system but it's parameters are not viewable or adjustable, so I had to download and install some "MIDI configurator" freeware. There seems to be a hard limit on the number or MIDI streams/connections that Reaper will support. I've been using Reaper for at least 3 years, and there's still TONS of stuff left for me to learn.
  13. Relax, "random perma-bans" are only a figment of my over-active imagination. A sarcastic joke about this forum, similar to the old "Will the last person leaving Seattle please turn out the lights" type thing. I need want to buy a MIDI controller keyboard now so I can use my SoundCanvas module to make my own music instead of just listening to MIDI files recreationally. I have an old cheapo MIDI controller, I'm pretty sure I bought it at a computer store and not a music store. It's a Quickshot (brand) MIDI Composer, I think it's 49 keys with modulation and pitch bend wheels, 3 digit LED display, and some buttons that are supposed to do stuff. I've discovered that I can record MIDI data to my DAW (Reaper), but can't play the SoundCanvas in real time. And I can't figure out how to call up different patches via the MIDI controller. I've long since lost the manual for the MIDI Composer so I'm just completely lost. The only copies of the manual I can find are on one of those creepy "file sharing" sites. Looking at buying a 49 key controller from one of the big companies, it's about $230 and comes with a bunch of bundled software.
  14. Yeah, I'm late to this party, but...remember these mini-strats are short scale, 10-46 strings will be very loose in my opinion. I bought my daughter one and put 11's on it. I haven't really noticed any issues with my daughter's mini, action is decent and the little thing is comfortable and fun to play. The short scale means bends and heavy hand vibrato is really easy compared to a standard-scale guitar.
  15. It all depends on what speaker cabinet(s) you connect to this pedal-amp. It's a safe bet that the poweramp in the SuperBlock is a Class-D, they work fine, they're efficient and reliable and it's really the only way to get any kind of power into a pedal-sized amplifier. However, unlike a tube amp, a class-D amp has a hard limit on the amount of power they can put out, when you get to the 25 watt output, it will either clip (distort) in a very un-musical way, or the amp may have a limiter, or some amps go into "protect mode" and shut off until the power is cycled. Having said that, 25 watts can be loud enough for a band setting with an efficient speaker cabinet, like a 12" or even 2 x 12" open back cab. If you connect this thing to a tiny 8" closed back cab, you'll be disappointed. A twenty-five watt tube amp can be overdriven beyond it's rated power, but of course with power amp distortion which may or may not be desirable depending on the kind of music you're playing.
  16. Who uses those anymore? I bought a later model Roland Sound Canvas module, an SC-8820. I've had a long "love affair" with the Sound Canvas 'cause way back in ancient times (the nineties) I bought a Sound Canvas "daughter board" that mated with a mulit-pin connector on my computer's sound card. This upgraded the MIDI sounds over the built in cheesy FM chipset the SoundBlaster cards used. This mattered back then because a lot of games used MIDI music. Over the years, Windows has been upgraded numerous times so that my soundcard is no longer supported, so no lovely SoundCanvas MIDI music unless I boot my computer into Windows XP. Stumbled across a Sound Canvas module for sale on my local Craigslist, took a while before I got around to purchasing due to a cash-flow problem, but I figure no one else would buy it, and I was right. The seller's emails were short and abrupt, and it seemed he wasn't experienced selling things on Craigslist. Once we agreed on a price, he just gave his home address and told me to come by (!). I showed up at his house, an old woman with a thick Russian accent in a housecoat answered and beckoned her husband. I asked him to demo the unit for me, which I then regretted because the old man moved slow and seemed to struggle with simple stuff like plugging in a USB cable. Turns out the old guy had a "mild stroke" an isn't able to play guitar anymore. I paid, thanked the man and left. I tested the unit out with it's MIDI input jack and my USB to MIDI interface. Then I was able to get the unit's USB interface to work on Windows 7 with a Windows Vista driver. I'm planning on getting a MIDI controller keyboard and using the Sound Canvas for drum and "standard" synth sounds for my home recording setup. I have to post pointless "content" like this to get my post/credibility rating to improve before I'm subject to a random perma-ban.
  17. Did you confirm this with a volt meter? Is your polarity correct?
  18. I got a notification that I'm a "posting machine" after making one post. Whee!
  19. It's because this one is done tastefully, and is NOT "overdone" like 99% of "relic" jobs. It looks like natural wear vs. an instrument that's been assaulted by a belt sander.
  20. More work was done than that...the midrange control was allegedly open and was replaced, as were several of the preamp tubes. It was in the dude's shop about six weeks, I wasn't in a hurry to get it back. Once I touched base with him again, he got my amp fixed within the week. Waaay back when, I posted pictures of the charred PCB, but I can't find my old post.
  21. A typical issue with foreign-made budget guitars is that although they may look identical to the name brand guitar, often there are subtle differences in size and layout for stuff like pickguards. So your old MIM pickguard may or may not be a "drop in" installation. Very possible that the holes in the new pickguard won't line up with the old ones. You'll just have to try it and see.
  22. I have some electronics skills, but decided this time I was better taking my amp to a pro. I'm glad I did. I believe I started a thread about it about a year or two ago. The amp in question was a Mesa Studio .22 caliber, a non-EQ model in ugly-ass dirty cream tolex. These amps have a known design issue because they use a 2 watt resistor for some kind of voltage step-down, and the resistor runs hot, so that given enough time it starts to cook & char the printed circuit board itself. I called Mesa and they were friendly, aware of the issue, and assured me "their guy" (the local Mesa Authorized tech for Dallas) would be able to fix my amp. Dropped my amp off at his shop near downtown in January I had to call the guy about a month later and ask where my amp was, but he was cool about it, and said he'd fix my amp and get it to the next week, and he did. Costs for his services was around two-hundred fifty ( I bought the amp for $400), but it works and sounds better than it did when I bought it. Very pleased I spent the money, it was well worth it.
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