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Best Guitar Cable out there? In your opinion!


tmd187

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ive used the same cbi cable for years


pressr22.jpg



Who sells CBI cables like that? 1) CBI cables I usually see are the cheap black generic cable with the plain jane generic plugs. 2) Never saw a braided CBI cable 3)Never saw a CBI or any other cable with exception of a Lava or Whirlwind cable that had wooden plugs

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Who sells CBI cables like that? 1) CBI cables I usually see are the cheap black generic cable with the plain jane generic plugs. 2) Never saw a braided CBI cable 3)Never saw a CBI or any other cable with exception of a Lava or Whirlwind cable that had wooden plugs

 

 

you might be able to order through their web site http://www.cbicables.com/pressreleasepg2.htm

 

i bought mine at some small shop in the midwest

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But isn't it true that once you plug any cable into a Boss or other momentary switch effect like we all do, you color your clean sound to the extent that the cable you use barely matters?

 

 

Not when the cable cuts in and out, adds microphonic noise, or has so much capcitance that it loads the pedal down. It's all a system, and the pieces interact.

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Brad Paisley and Nuge use

 

www.guitar-cable.com

 

However, 99.999% of your audience will never know the difference anyway, so why bother? Get the cheapest brand-name (avoid generic just because the build quality can be shoddy) you can find that meets your requirements (like if you want right angle plugs, or whatever, and a lifetime warranty, etc)

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Excellent reference:


http://community.legacylearningsystems.com/boards/viewtopic.php?t=3028&view=next&sid=0ec22f9fc07922901c2c10830a18f68d



:facepalm:

This "reference" is pure junk.

There is no technical basis behind any of the ratings. Everything is 100% subjective, with no objective, repeatable measurements of any sort in use.

Additionally, it's based on a single person's equipment - not any sort of actual test equipment. Thus, even if you believe that this one person has a reasonable ability to make comparative measurements by ear over a few dozen samples (which is completely bogus), you have no idea whether or not your equipment would respond the same way as his.

From an engineering standpoint, this "chart" isn't worth the electrons used to display it on your screen.

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Wrote this on another forum but it applies here as well:

 

Don't buy Monster - premium for marketing rather than quality.

 

Don't buy any so called high end cable (Evidence, Zaolla, Van Den Hul, VOVOX) - premium for presumed improvement in quality. Yes, they're nice cables but seriously, are they worth twice as much as a good cable? Especially when the manufacturer can't state anything but marketing speak for why it's better and nobody else has been able to prove it either other than "I can hear it sounds better".

 

Don't buy cheapos either. They are truly crap - if they don't suck tone then they break in a few weeks.

 

Don't buy any cables that have molded ends. If there's a problem you can't just cut the cable and resolder the plugs. Also don't bother falling into any gold plated plugs stuff either. It has absolutely no relevance in any musical instrument cables.

 

Make sure the cable you buy has either Neutrik or Switchcraft plugs. They are easy to repair and very durable.

 

I'd recommend Klotz, but I understand that they're more expensive in USA than they are in Europe. Over here they're very reasonably priced and very high quality. Canare, Mogami etc are also in the good, reasonably priced category. Soldering your own cables is worth it, it's not difficult and will save you some money plus you get the exact length you need.

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I use Monster cables.They're hella expensive but worth it.

 

 

I've tried a couple of Monster cables, and generally found that I paid too much and got too little. Reliability wasn't there under heavy use, and the sound quality was no better than Rapco or Whirlwind Leader. [FWIW, I patently refuse to even consider Monster speaker cables - they actually use much smaller conductors than 'equivalent' cables and cost a lot more. In short, you pay more and get less.]

 

OTOH, I have a couple of Whirlwind Leader 20' guitar cables that have worked without fail, quietly, and with good sound for over 20 years.

 

Price definitely does not equate to quality in guitar cables.

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Wrote this on another forum but it applies here as well:


Don't buy Monster - premium for marketing rather than quality.


Don't buy any so called high end cable (Evidence, Zaolla, Van Den Hul, VOVOX) - premium for presumed improvement in quality. Yes, they're nice cables but seriously, are they worth twice as much as a good cable? Especially when the manufacturer can't state anything but marketing speak for why it's better and nobody else has been able to prove it either other than "
I
can hear it sounds better".


Don't buy cheapos either. They are truly crap - if they don't suck tone then they break in a few weeks.


Don't buy any cables that have molded ends. If there's a problem you can't just cut the cable and resolder the plugs. Also don't bother falling into any gold plated plugs stuff either. It has absolutely no relevance in any musical instrument cables.


Make sure the cable you buy has either Neutrik or Switchcraft plugs. They are easy to repair and very durable.


I'd recommend Klotz, but I understand that they're more expensive in USA than they are in Europe. Over here they're very reasonably priced and very high quality. Canare, Mogami etc are also in the good, reasonably priced category. Soldering your own cables is worth it, it's not difficult and will save you some money plus you get the exact length you need.



Hmmmmmm........I was losing a little gain using my shure wireless and mid-grade cables.Went to the monster cables and problem solved.:idk:

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Don't buy Monster - premium for marketing rather than quality.


Don't buy any so called high end cable - premium for presumed improvement in quality. Yes, they're nice cables but seriously, are they worth twice as much as a good cable? Especially when the manufacturer can't state anything but marketing speak for why it's better and nobody else has been able to prove it either other than "
I
can hear it sounds better".


Don't buy cheapos either. They are truly crap - if they don't suck tone then they break in a few weeks.


Don't buy any cables that have molded ends. If there's a problem you can't just cut the cable and resolder the plugs. Also don't bother falling into any gold plated plugs stuff either. It has absolutely no relevance in any musical instrument cables.


Make sure the cable you buy has either Neutrik or Switchcraft plugs. They are easy to repair and very durable.


Soldering your own cables is worth it, it's not difficult and will save you some money plus you get the exact length you need.

 

 

This should be a sticky!

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Klotz is my cable of choice.

IY106 for patch cables since it has a tighter bending radius, even though some companies use La-Grange GY107. This is great cable but for very short cables it is perhaps a little bit stiff. You might find your effects moving around slightly unpredictably. Cable really shouldn't be coiled tightly. It breaks the copper and the insulation down, so the cable capacitance rises and the sound can get progressively duller. A 6"cable is not going to colour sound a great deal.

For longer runs, very low colouration and really good anti-static and RFI performance GY107 La-grange, every time.

 

Also, beware some linen covered cables. The linen can twist the cable within over time. Anyone with an old kettle or toaster can show you what I mean by this.

 

Neutrik NP2XB and NP2RXB gold connectors are very sturdy and well made connectors. I use them exclusively. If you would like even better functionality from your cables Neutrik NP2C-AU-Silent, NP2X-AU-Silent and NP2RX-AU-Silent contain a magnetically actuated reed-switch which mutes the plug on removal.

 

The NP2RX-AU-Silent is also suitable for most Fender Telecaster guitars because it has a slightly longer collar than most other angled jack plugs.

 

Plenty more information here:

 

http://www.handmadecableco.com

 

*I*

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