badpenguin

It's NOT a 1, it's an I, as in "i" in the beginning of the serial number. That shows Saien as builder, the rest of the serial number starting with the 6, shows the last year of the decade it was built in. ie: 86, 96, 06. Saien wasn't under contract by Gibson in 86, Samick was, and the Gibson truss rod cover wasn't used in 06. so.... 96.

Nope, not me. But proof that penguins are bad in general!

Sorry, I wouldn't use EB on an enemy's guitar.

Agile 3010 here. Ebony board, P90's, and a great feeling neck! Also have a Douglas thinline tele. Original pickups, changed the bridge to a 3 barrel brass one, with the Bill Lawrence 5 way switch wiring. Best tele I ever owned!

Ok, I doubt it's it caps. And the way a Gibson is wired, it's normal to have one volume off, and the guitar go silent in the mid position. (One volume gets grounded, so both pickups get grounded. Completely normal.) Way to fix that is to de-couple one of the pickups. Simple reverse the in and out on the ONE volume pot. But back to main issue: let's take the pots out of the equation completely. Wire your neck pickup directly to the output jack. If the problem still persists, and after you adjust the height and pickup pole screw pieces, you have a rare case of the pickup being fried.

There's nothing there that could cause the pickups to sound out of phase. The ONLY thing that could possibly cause that, and this is a stretch, is perhaps the pickups are placed in the guitar wrong. Like I said, it's a stretch. Are the screws in the neck pickup closer to the fretboard, and are the screws on the bridge pickup closer to the bridge.

Ok, you have the Gibson standard 2 conductor wiring. Meaning an outer braded covering used as ground, and an inner wire for hot. You do not have treble bleed caps, so that's out of the equation, ( Daddymack used the term "bleed" caps for the tone control caps.) and the only thing that looks off by your pics, is the neck volume. it looks as if the in and output of the pot is wired together.

Ok, let me preface this by saying I am NOT trying to sound like a Richard Head here. The term "aural memory" is laughable, especially "quite a few years" later. You may "remember" a certain sound, but time changes the way we remember things. You can remember basics, but nuances tend to fade away over time. Now that that was said, here are two diagrams for Gibson wiring. One is the Modern: 2 Humbuckers/3-Way Toggle Switch/2 Volumes/2 Tones (guitarelectronics.com) the other Vintage. 2 Humbuckers/3-Way Lever Switch/2 Volumes/2 Tones (guitarelectronics.com) If your guitar is wired properly, ie: one of these diagrams, and the pickup has an out of phase sound to it, then you aren't following the proper color code, and the pickup is wired out of phase with itself. (This assuming you have a 4 conductor pickup, and have the 2 of the 4 wires backwards.) Guitar Humbucker Wire Color Codes | Guitar Wirirng Diagrams (guitarelectronics.com) If the pickup is wired properly, and still sounds "thin", let's look at your setup. Have you changed amps? String brands? String gauges? How about cables or effects? If any of them have changed, then naturally, there is a change in sound. Assuming everything is the same, and your hearing hasn't changed in the few years since playing it, (Which is normal for hearing to change over time.) then try adjusting the pickup heights and the pole piece heights. That in itself can have a dramatic change in the pickup tones. Hope that helps.

Ok, the DVS is the color of the guitar, NOT the model. Pics will help out a LOT, and the proper model name might help a bit too. And welcome to the forum!

No, you have an ABR style bridge. A Nashville one is the one that don't screw directly into the wood. It has a set collar into the wood, then the screw posts, then the bridge. ABR: Nashville: And wrong Nashville, he is talking about the style of bridge NOT the tuning.

President? No, speaker of the house perhaps. All of these are Ibanez made.

Hey all, about a week or so before Katmas (if you have cats, you understand) my wife was looking at eBay. I get this call from the other room, "You like Roadstars, right?" And she shows me this guitar. It's an RG 240 from 87. Ok... interested, but never really bonded with the modern RGs. I get one, play it for a few weeks, and it gets sold off. But this one.... is interesting. First off, 22 fret neck, which I prefer. 2 singles and a hum, nice, and a Powerocker DX trem bridge. ok, VERY interested now! (This was one of the transition models from the Roadstars to the RGs.) A Roadstar neck, which I happen to LOVE it's roundness, and a nice arm bevel on the body. Then looking at the serial number, noticed the "P". "P" stands for PEERLESS!!!! And a case! (Ok, it's a cheap pressed board case, but still, it's a case.) Then she saw the price, and before I could say a word, she hit the BIN button. @Daddymack will love it, since it's black. And the BIN price you ask? 39.00 with 21.00 shipping!!!! Plays very nicely with a minimum setup needed. Has every single original screw, including the stupidly rare locking nut parts, and even the original trem bar. And is a Peerless to boot! Happy Katmas to me!!

Sexy beasty! Congratulations!!

1) Gibson has used that system for decades. It's even on the high-end historic reissues. Your posts aren't bent, so no, there is no need to replace it with a modern setup. 2) Stike a note, say the F# on the B string. Listen to the sustain. Now ask yourself "Do I really need more sustain?" When was the last time you thought that your guitar didn't have enough sustain? I come from the era that thought brass was the answer to all. Brass nuts, brass saddles, brass tailpieces, brass blocks under the tailpiece. What did that give us? Overly bright and heavy guitars. 3) Yes, there are replacement parts that have better string contact points. Babicz is first in mind. Babicz Full Contact Hardware TOM/TP Chrome | zZounds | Reverb But why would you want such an overly engineered chunk of metal on your guitar?

Thay also make you look like kind of a wanna-be.

It's it ain't bacon, it ain't playin!

If there was a humbucker, it was A500K pot for the tone and B500K for volume. If EMG's, then B25K for volume and A25K for tone. If replacing the EMG's with passive, make sure your tech adds a ground wire from the bridge, to one of the pots. Your tech should know this. And on a sidenote here... whatever happened to ANSWERING someone's question?

Your budget will dictate what Paul you want, and your hand and ears will tell you which is the right one. Had a Paul studio Faded from 2007. It was chambered and light. GREAT sounding Paul! Don't be afraid of neck repairs on older ones. If it's done properly, it's cosmetic and a lot cheaper than one without. Don't believe the crap about the Norlin years. Yeah, there were some garbage put out, and great ones too. Again, let your hand and ears decide which is which. If price isn't an issue (Lucky bastard) Go with the Reissues. Expensive, even on the used market, but VERY nice guitars.

Saw one in a GC. Played it, went "meh..." and moved on.

That's kinda typical of the three I have seen. Nothing you can do about it, unless you want to have it refinished, which loses the value, and is why you probably bought it in the first place.

Without pictures, there's no proof.

The G212 Vintage uses Celestion Vintage 30. The G212 only says "custom voiced" so no manufacturer there. Probably OEM from China.

See if there is an online manual for that thing.

Looks like a Silvertone 1962 1420 model. VintageSilvertones.com - For Sale

Desirable is debatable, if it's still being made, then yes, somewhat desirable. The Roadhouse strat, still being made is $999 street price. Mexican I believe. The American performer, which I think that is, sells for the 1300 mark on Reverb. Best info I can give you. Which is what 45 seconds on GOOGLE provided. (hint hint)