Question about soldering

[DarkHorseJ27]

I've been looking up a lot of tutorial videos on how to solder. The problem I'm running into is:

 

1. One half of the videos say to put the solder on the hot iron and then put it on whatever you need to and to never do it the way described in #2.

 

2. The other half of the videos say to heat whatever your soldering with the iron until it heats up, then touch the solder to the heated surface, and to never do it the way described in #1.

 

Which way do I do it?

 

By the way, I'd ask in the DIY section, but I'm lucky if I even get a unhelpful response.

[benricci]

2.

[CanIBDom]

Number two. Method 1 leads to cold solder joints.

[pixelchemist]

2. most of the time... but not really an option for small wires unless you like melted insulation

[airwarrior]

Putting solder on the tip is sometimes useful in helping solder flow, but option 2 is the best way to avoid cold joints.

[datstrat]

The answer is actually both. A "dry" iron without any solder will provide very little surface area to transfer the heat from the iron to the components being soldered. However, you don't just blob on a bunch of solder on the iron and touch it to the joint and expect good results.

The correct way to solder is as follows:

Make sure the components being soldered are clean and free from oxidation.

Clean the tip of the iron using a sponge or similar tip cleaner.

Apply a small amount of solder to the tip of the iron to aid in heat transfer.

Touch the iron to the component being soldered.

Allow the leads/electrodes being soldered to reach solder reflow (melting) temperature.

Feed solder on to joint until proper solder joint is acheived.

I hope this helps.

[brandass]

^^^^^
This is how I do it, and so far so good.

[favata5]

number 2 can also destroy pots and sensitive parts if the heat stays on too long!

[PlinytheWelder]

 

The answer is actually both. A "dry" iron without any solder will provide very little surface area to transfer the heat from the iron to the components being soldered. However, you don't just blob on a bunch of solder on the iron and touch it to the joint and expect good results. The correct way to solder is as follows: Make sure the components being soldered are clean and free from oxidation. Clean the tip of the iron using a sponge or similar tip cleaner. Apply a small amount of solder to the tip of the iron to aid in heat transfer. Touch the iron to the component being soldered. Allow the leads/electrodes being soldered to reach solder reflow (melting) temperature. Feed solder on to joint until proper solder joint is acheived. I hope this helps.

 

 

+2 This is what I've been doing since the 60's.

 

The only thing I can add, is that I touch the iron to the part with the most mass first (wire)

then roll it onto the pad, if it's a PC board. Both parts need to be hot.

[brewgoodbeer]

The answer is actually both. A "dry" iron without any solder will provide very little surface area to transfer the heat from the iron to the components being soldered. However, you don't just blob on a bunch of solder on the iron and touch it to the joint and expect good results. The correct way to solder is as follows: Make sure the components being soldered are clean and free from oxidation. Clean the tip of the iron using a sponge or similar tip cleaner. Apply a small amount of solder to the tip of the iron to aid in heat transfer. Touch the iron to the component being soldered. Allow the leads/electrodes being soldered to reach solder reflow (melting) temperature. Feed solder on to joint until proper solder joint is acheived. I hope this helps.

 

 

Very good procedure. The only thing that I would add is to make sure that you tin all wire ends before you solder to aid in the flow process. Also get yourself a set of alligator clip heat sinks. You can use these on some sensative solder jobs. They will not stop too much heat if you are careless, but they will add a layer of protection when you work properly.

 

Most of the stuff you solder on a guitar is pretty durable. It is stuff inside your amp, especially if solid state, that you can get into trouble with too much heat.

[Kuroyume]

Applying some solder to the iron tip is called 'tinning'. Yes, this is something you should do. But, as already noted, 2. is the way to solder wires and components.

[Kuroyume]

number 2 can also destroy pots and sensitive parts if the heat stays on too long!

 

 

Only if you aren't careful. That is what heat sinks are for. I've never had any problems with pots (qualifier: with a 40W iron - with a 25W it was not happening). You should put the solder next to the iron tip if the surface will take too long to heat. I've already described the best way (that I learned) to solder wires/components to a pot surface as ground - put solder on the pot and then solder the wires/components to that.

[Targ]

The answer is actually both. A "dry" iron without any solder will provide very little surface area to transfer the heat from the iron to the components being soldered. However, you don't just blob on a bunch of solder on the iron and touch it to the joint and expect good results. The correct way to solder is as follows: Make sure the components being soldered are clean and free from oxidation. Clean the tip of the iron using a sponge or similar tip cleaner. Apply a small amount of solder to the tip of the iron to aid in heat transfer. Touch the iron to the component being soldered. Allow the leads/electrodes being soldered to reach solder reflow (melting) temperature. Feed solder on to joint until proper solder joint is acheived. I hope this helps.

 

 

This, just enough solder on the tip to assist in heat transfer, not to solder anything.

[doodie]

some helpful information about soldering here:
http://www.elexp.com/t_solder.htm

hope this help!

[hellion_213]

When soldering small wires together, usually I strip off a little extra, twist them together, and use method 1 to keep from melting insulation. Other than that, 2.

[EADGBE]

 

1. One half of the videos say to put the solder on the hot iron and then put it on whatever you need to and to never do it the way described in #2. 2. The other half of the videos say to heat whatever your soldering with the iron until it heats up, then touch the solder to the heated surface, and to never do it the way described in #1. Which way do I do it?

 

Either way.

 

I've tried to do it the 2nd way. But it doesn't always work for me. So lately I've been going with method no. 1.

 

With the 2nd way there's always a chance you can damage the component with too much heat. But you can't really damage solder. Anyway with the 2nd way always be sure to use heatsinks.

 

Another way is to heat the joint up just a little. Then lift the iron off. Then put some solder on the hot iron tip and solder the joint immediately.

[favata5]

Only if you aren't careful. That is what heat sinks are for. I've never had any problems with pots (qualifier: with a 40W iron - with a 25W it was not happening). You should put the solder next to the iron tip if the surface will take too long to heat. I've already described the best way (that I learned) to solder wires/components to a pot surface as ground - put solder on the pot and then solder the wires/components to that.

 

 

Ive had a hard time on a few pots ,I use a weller 40 watt I believe.youre right about putting the drop on first,that works well

[PanaDP]

2. Always 2.

 

1 makes cold joints.

[mike42]

I think some of the problem here is that solder is sometimes thought of as a kind of metallic "glue". It really has to do more than "glue" the parts together to perform its function.

 

You can often just drop a blob of solder on a joint and get a kind of (at least temporary) mechanical bond. But this invariably forms what is known as a "cold" joint. The electrical conductivity will be poor to non-existent, and if the joint works at all, it will become a problem somewhere down the road.

 

To get a good joint the solder needs to actually flow into the pores of all the material being joined - and that requires all the surfaces to be hot enough to flow the solder. This is a problem when you're working with components that are subject to heat damage, but it's one of the unpleasant little realities of soldering. I've never heard anyone actually advocate the above #1 technique as a way to successfully solder.

[Belva]

The answer is actually both. A "dry" iron without any solder will provide very little surface area to transfer the heat from the iron to the components being soldered. However, you don't just blob on a bunch of solder on the iron and touch it to the joint and expect good results. The correct way to solder is as follows: Make sure the components being soldered are clean and free from oxidation. Clean the tip of the iron using a sponge or similar tip cleaner. Apply a small amount of solder to the tip of the iron to aid in heat transfer. Touch the iron to the component being soldered. Allow the leads/electrodes being soldered to reach solder reflow (melting) temperature. Feed solder on to joint until proper solder joint is acheived. I hope this helps.

This is the way I do it. But I recently spent 3 bucks on a container of tip cleaner & tinner at Rat Shack. Stuff works! I just get it hot, stick it in, pull it out quickly & shake it off (DON'T go there!).

[Alex_SF]

Also get yourself a set of alligator clip heat sinks. You can use these on some sensative solder jobs. They will not stop too much heat if you are careless, but they will add a layer of protection when you work properly.

 

 

That, or clip on a set of forceps. Either can also be helpful for that pesky "third hand to hold your parts together" problem sometimes.