Members stratocaster202 Posted January 2, 2012 Members Share Posted January 2, 2012 Blue, obviously As they say in science: blue bends best Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Belva Posted January 3, 2012 Author Members Share Posted January 3, 2012 The law of the inclined plane says that, in theory, threaded inserts would make for more clamping force. The reality is a whole 'nother thang. Keep in mind I'm talking about real world here where a neck may come off a guitar once, maybe twice in it's whole life. The tinkerers here know that the holes in the body should be 5/32 or 3/16". Plenty of clearance for either a wood screw or an 8-32 machine screw. So in the real world, when a neck doesn't come away from the body much, would you rather have a wood screw, installed with a bit of good ole Ivory soap or would you want a machine screw rusting and possibly getting stuck in the insert? Then what? You'd basically be fooked. Oh I know, saw the neck off. Yeah.......yeah, that's it. :eek:A brass insert is an option, but then you're looking at a softer material that's more likely to strip. And that boys and girls takes away any clamping force advantage you gain over a proper wood screw in the 1/8" hole drilled for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members TomCray Posted January 3, 2012 Members Share Posted January 3, 2012 This reminds me of the Nashville vs abr tunomatic debate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jamdogg Posted January 3, 2012 Members Share Posted January 3, 2012 Lotsa psychobabble here. The law of the inclined plane says that, in theory, threaded inserts would make for more clamping force. The reality is a whole 'nother thang. Keep in mind I'm talking about real world here where a neck may come off a guitar once, maybe twice in it's whole life. The tinkerers here know that the holes in the body should be 5/32 or 3/16". Plenty of clearance for either a wood screw or an 8-32 machine screw. So in the real world, when a neck doesn't come away from the body much, would you rather have a wood screw, installed with a bit of good ole Ivory soap or would you want a machine screw rusting and possibly getting stuck in the insert? Then what? You'd basically be fooked. Oh I know, saw the neck off. Yeah.......yeah, that's it. :eek:A brass insert is an option, but then you're looking at a softer material that's more likely to strip. And that boys and girls takes away any clamping force advantage you gain over a proper wood screw in the 1/8" hole drilled for it.I work my tele over like it owes me $ (on a daily basis since last july) without issue. No rust or stripping, had the neck on/off many times - still clam-ass tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members smorgdonkey Posted January 3, 2012 Members Share Posted January 3, 2012 The law of the inclined plane says that, in theory, threaded inserts would make for more clamping force. The reality is a whole 'nother thang. Keep in mind I'm talking about real world here where a neck may come off a guitar once, maybe twice in it's whole life. The tinkerers here know that the holes in the body should be 5/32 or 3/16". Plenty of clearance for either a wood screw or an 8-32 machine screw. So in the real world, when a neck doesn't come away from the body much, would you rather have a wood screw, installed with a bit of good ole Ivory soap or would you want a machine screw rusting and possibly getting stuck in the insert? Then what? You'd basically be fooked. Oh I know, saw the neck off. Yeah.......yeah, that's it. :eek:A brass insert is an option, but then you're looking at a softer material that's more likely to strip. And that boys and girls takes away any clamping force advantage you gain over a proper wood screw in the 1/8" hole drilled for it. You're really reaching there. What about necks that have the truss rod adjustment at the heel with nio notch to access? Those are off more than twice. What about the softer woods that are supposed to be holding those screws in there snugly? What about wood screws being torqued in when the wood is swollen and moist from being built in 90% humidity and now the wood is in 50% humidity? Metal on metal - Anvil said it and they were right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members etawful Posted January 3, 2012 Members Share Posted January 3, 2012 Plenty of clearance for either a wood screw or an 8-32 machine screw. So in the real world, when a neck doesn't come away from the body much, would you rather have a wood screw, installed with a bit of good ole Ivory soap or would you want a machine screw rusting and possibly getting stuck in the insert? Then what? You'd basically be fooked. Oh I know, saw the neck off. Yeah.......yeah, that's it. In the extremely, extremely unlikely event that a bolt should rust to an insert, that can be resolved with a drill in a matter of seconds (as long as it takes to drill the head of the bolt off, it won't damage the wood at all, might necessitate a new neck plate, but that's nothing). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members honeyiscool Posted January 3, 2012 Members Share Posted January 3, 2012 So which Vox amps sound better? Ones with black or brown grillcloth? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RaVenCAD Posted January 3, 2012 Members Share Posted January 3, 2012 The law of the inclined plane says that, in theory, threaded inserts would make for more clamping force. The reality is a whole 'nother thang. Keep in mind I'm talking about real world here where a neck may come off a guitar once, maybe twice in it's whole life. The tinkerers here know that the holes in the body should be 5/32 or 3/16". Plenty of clearance for either a wood screw or an 8-32 machine screw. So in the real world, when a neck doesn't come away from the body much, would you rather have a wood screw, installed with a bit of good ole Ivory soap or would you want a machine screw rusting and possibly getting stuck in the insert? Then what? You'd basically be fooked. Oh I know, saw the neck off. Yeah.......yeah, that's it. :eek:A brass insert is an option, but then you're looking at a softer material that's more likely to strip. And that boys and girls takes away any clamping force advantage you gain over a proper wood screw in the 1/8" hole drilled for it. You think brass is softer than wood? Credability, down the toilet... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members honeyiscool Posted January 3, 2012 Members Share Posted January 3, 2012 I think he's saying brass inserts vs. steel inserts. Anyway, if you have a vintage style Fender with heel truss rod adjustment, it definitely gets removed pretty often, and if you have a 22-fret neck, it definitely gets removed whenever the pickguard needs to be looked at. And I just described most of my instruments right there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Ratae Corieltauvorum Posted January 3, 2012 Moderators Share Posted January 3, 2012 1: Insert pressed from sheet 2: Insert cast from a variety of metals 3: Insert machined from billet ????? vague thread title is vague Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Ratae Corieltauvorum Posted January 3, 2012 Moderators Share Posted January 3, 2012 Everybody knows that higher frequencies travel faster than lower frequencies. To get the most out of your threaded inserts you should put 24TPI inserts on the bass side and 32TPI on the treble side. That way the sound gets to the pickups all at the same time. The hard question is which locktite has the best tone. On a strat I'd use green for more quack, on a jackson I'd use red because red is faster (of course!). I endorse this post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Wayne2 Posted January 3, 2012 Members Share Posted January 3, 2012 a machine screw rusting and possibly getting stuck in the insert? Then what? You'd basically be fooked. Yes this would happen. Manufacturers led by beancounters will go cheaper and cheaper and cheaper, figuring most people probably never take the neck off or care about durability beyond five years. Pretty soon it'll be that cheap soft metal like the screws in kids' toys, that rusts after five minutes and turns to mush with gentle screwdriver pressure. I can see the inserts going to crap just because they'll take the cheapest bid for anything remotely resembling an insert. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RaVenCAD Posted January 3, 2012 Members Share Posted January 3, 2012 Yes this would happen. Manufacturers led by beancounters will go cheaper and cheaper and cheaper, figuring most people probably never take the neck off or care about durability beyond five years. Pretty soon it'll be that cheap soft metal like the screws in kids' toys, that rusts after five minutes and turns to mush with gentle screwdriver pressure. I can see the inserts going to crap just because they'll take the cheapest bid for anything remotely resembling an insert. You need to choose better manufacturers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Belva Posted January 3, 2012 Author Members Share Posted January 3, 2012 You think brass is softer than wood? Credability, down the toilet... When you have 32 tpi on it, yes. It's more likely to strip than a properly drilled hole for a wood screw. Unless you have a neck made of balsa or some other soft wood. Then you got more problems than any amount of threaded inserts can fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members gergbee Posted January 3, 2012 Members Share Posted January 3, 2012 I've decided to post an insert into this thread...it has no sustain whatsoever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Meowy Posted January 3, 2012 Members Share Posted January 3, 2012 I've decided to post an insert into this thread...it has no sustain whatsoever. Screw this thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members etawful Posted January 3, 2012 Members Share Posted January 3, 2012 Yes this would happen. Manufacturers led by beancounters will go cheaper and cheaper and cheaper, figuring most people probably never take the neck off or care about durability beyond five years. Pretty soon it'll be that cheap soft metal like the screws in kids' toys, that rusts after five minutes and turns to mush with gentle screwdriver pressure. I can see the inserts going to crap just because they'll take the cheapest bid for anything remotely resembling an insert. Lord knows they would never do that with wood screws going into the body. They'd never use a cheaper softer wood that the screws would strip more easily. I mean . . . no manufacturer would ever dream of cutting corners on anything besides inserts. Little tip: If a manufacturer would cut corners on inserts, they'd cut corners on the wood they used, the wood screws they used, etc. The argument that a company would cut corners and use cheaper materials is equally applicable to any method of attachment, so isn't really an argument against inserts, but an argument against cost-cutting in general. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members etawful Posted January 3, 2012 Members Share Posted January 3, 2012 When you have 32 tpi on it, yes. It's more likely to strip than a properly drilled hole for a wood screw. Unless you have a neck made of balsa or some other soft wood. Then you got more problems than any amount of threaded inserts can fix. If you're threading the screws into the neck wood, you're doing it wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Wayne2 Posted January 3, 2012 Members Share Posted January 3, 2012 Little tip: If a manufacturer would cut corners on inserts, they'd cut corners on the wood they used, the wood screws they used, etc. The argument that a company would cut corners and use cheaper materials is equally applicable to any method of attachment, so isn't really an argument against inserts, but an argument against cost-cutting in general. Well-argued. I might have to agree with you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members honeyiscool Posted January 3, 2012 Members Share Posted January 3, 2012 Screw this thread Are you ready to bolt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members BoneNut Posted January 3, 2012 Members Share Posted January 3, 2012 Are you ready to bolt?:lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members smorgdonkey Posted January 3, 2012 Members Share Posted January 3, 2012 You think brass is softer than wood? Credability, down the toilet... His credibility is up the toilet and down the toilet...like a scat yo-yo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Doctor Morbius Posted January 3, 2012 Members Share Posted January 3, 2012 Here's my insert for the day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members lowbrow Posted January 3, 2012 Members Share Posted January 3, 2012 I really need to put these in my #1. The neck has been on and off it so many times I'm afraid one more time and the neck screw holes will be completely shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members smorgdonkey Posted January 3, 2012 Members Share Posted January 3, 2012 I really need to put these in my #1. The neck has been on and off it so many times I'm afraid one more time and the neck screw holes will be completely shot. Dude...haven't you heard that your neck will only be off of the guitar twice in its lifetime? Get with the program...your head must be as hard as wood (which is softer than metal apparently). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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