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Older Peavey guitars?


jrcorp

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Viddy isn't super necessary anyhow. I've done lotsa ngd threads, never included it. Honestly I don't know how people have time to. It's nice if it's there but I consider it a bonus.


Plus, I long ago got over being embarrassed about my playing. It is what it is.
;)

Looking forward to your pics!

 

Haha I hadn't even considered video, really. I've had a decent M-Audio interface that I bought used for a little while, but I haven't recorded anything! My 15 year-old brother has narrated YouTube videos with my SM58 but I've been a slacker. Shall I give it some good play time and take pictures before I totally dismantle it and clean it up?

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Anyone ever had an issue of the strings being offset on the fretboard? Not easy to explain at all, but the way everything is built and assembled, the low E has a good amount of fret hanging off while the high E has little fret at all, especially towards the higher frets. I just got the guitar last night, and this is by far the biggest issue.

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Never ran into that problem with my Peavey, or any other guitar ever. If the problem is worse closer to the bridge, neck was put on wrong. Fill the holes in the body, and redrill in proper place. I think you are saying, problem is worse closer to the headstock. Nut was put on wrong? Fix with new nut, maybe will also fix the fret buzz too.

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i had a peavey impact 2 in black with a kahler trem and on off switches for the pickup, the humbucker had a 3 way for coil tap. one of the best playing and most toanz guitars i've ever owned, and the kahler was so smooth

looked like this:

320300058320-4.jpg

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Never ran into that problem with my Peavey, or any other guitar ever. If the problem is worse closer to the bridge, neck was put on wrong. Fill the holes in the body, and redrill in proper place. I think you are saying, problem is worse closer to the headstock. Nut was put on wrong? Fix with new nut, maybe will also fix the fret buzz too.

 

 

I'm actually saying the opposite... the higher frets (maybe 18th-22nd) have hardly any fret at all. Around 21st-22nd it's super close. I've looked at the way the neck and body are drilled and routed, and everything looks drilled straight on its own, plus the neck fits pretty tight in the pocket. If I hold onto the guitar, I'll definitely work on setting it up and all, but this may be too much of an issue. Working on pictures but I broke the high E, don't have another here, and my weekend is crazy.

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Just loosen the neck screws a turn, hold the guitar in your lap (playing position), brace the body well and give a good yank up on the neck. Common issue with bolt neck guitars.

 

 

Really? This sounds almost dangerous... I'm not sure I understand how that would fix the issue, maybe the screws need to seat better?

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If you're not used to doing your own setups, you may be better off to pay someone else to do it for you. But yeah, this is standard procedure, even at Fender. I believe they call it "cracking the neck". They don't even bother to loosen the screws...it makes a big "pop" noise when the neck shifts.

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If you're not used to doing your own setups, you may be better off to pay someone else to do it for you. But yeah, this is standard procedure, even at Fender. I believe they call it "cracking the neck". They don't even bother to loosen the screws...it makes a big "pop" noise when the neck shifts.

 

 

Damn, well I guess I'll be trying that. I've set up most of my guitars, the only exception being a hollowbody with a floating bridge. I couldn't for the life of me get the intonation right, so I brought it to a shop. But for $60 at the only good place I know of here, I would rather spend the time and effort to get it even mostly right.

 

Thanks for the tips though, much appreciated.

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Anyone ever had an issue of the strings being offset on the fretboard? Not easy to explain at all, but the way everything is built and assembled, the low E has a good amount of fret hanging off while the high E has little fret at all, especially towards the higher frets. I just got the guitar last night, and this is by far the biggest issue.

 

 

I noticed that on 2 Predators I own. One that has the earlier script logo and the other with the Block corporate logo they started using around the mid 90's.

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I had to redrill to put in Schaller locking tuners.


As far as knowing it's USA made...


All Peavey Predators are US made.


There is such a thing as a Predator Plus. Those were not made in USA.


Every Predator is 3 single coils
, every Predator Plus has a HB in bridge. Only way you could end up with a non USA with 3 single coils is if somebody changed the pick guard.

 

 

Well there was the Predator AX from the mid 90's that had 4 single coils 2 at the bridge arrange side by side like Humbuckers. The pickups all solid white covers and the pole pieces weren't exposed. These had better sealed tuners, only one volume one tone control and between them a 3 way mini toggle that offered some additional switching options.

 

At some point it was offered with a slightly different styling and pickups with exposed pole pieces.

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Old Peaveys are built like a tank, weigh a metric ton, and usually sound like a million bucks.

 

 

Thanks man, I haven't even plugged mine in yet but it is solid and hefty. I think it was pretty resonant when I played unplugged too. I read some of a thread you posted about the quality and opinion of Peavey stuff, way deeper than I was going but awesome stuff and a lot of response. Sorry if I stepped on your toes there.

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Could you elaborate on the issue, whether you kept the guitars, how they were to play, if you managed to fix the guitars, etc.? Based on the majority of people saying they have had no issue, I guess it's the occasional manufacturing defect that passed QA?


I won't be able to take pictures untill late tonight, and I'll have to restring it, but I'm on the fence about whether it would be a hindrance to playing. I guess if I can't fix it, my money would be better spent on a guitar without this kind of problem.

 

 

Mine doesn't have the problem but it definitely could be one that passed QA.

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Mine doesn't have the problem but it definitely could be one that passed QA.

 

 

You think Peavey has transferable lifetime warranties on these? Haha.

 

Just trivia, but a limited 1-year? That's lousy for an American product.

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Never liked the old Peavey guitars - prefer a Fender Strat for feel and sound...

 

 

I'm thinking I might too. There's a Korean Squier for sale locally, so if I can't cope with this guitar I may return it and buy the Squier. Too bad, as I had high hopes. But there aren't any Predators local and I wouldn't want to pay for another guitar to be shipped. I would much rather get a good look and handle on one before I buy.

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Could you elaborate on the issue, whether you kept the guitars, how they were to play, if you managed to fix the guitars, etc.? Based on the majority of people saying they have had no issue, I guess it's the occasional manufacturing defect that passed QA?


I won't be able to take pictures untill late tonight, and I'll have to restring it, but I'm on the fence about whether it would be a hindrance to playing. I guess if I can't fix it, my money would be better spent on a guitar without this kind of problem.




Thanks man, I haven't even plugged mine in yet but it is solid and hefty. I think it was pretty resonant when I played unplugged too. I read some of a thread you posted about the quality and opinion of Peavey stuff, way deeper than I was going but awesome stuff and a lot of response. Sorry if I stepped on your toes there.

 

 

I still have the guitars. It hasn't been an playability issue for me personally but I can see why it might be for others. IIRC I did try to pull the neck tighter into the pocket on my red one but it didn't seem to make much of a difference. This particular guitar had the original nut replaced with an Earvana by the seller @ my request the other has the original Graphlon nut.

 

I bought both used from Chris Guitars and he has all of the used guitars he sells set up by his tech before shipping. I have quite a few Peaveys but only those 2 Preadators and my Peavey Axcellerator F with a maple neck had the high E string really close to the fingerboard edge. I have a Samick era u.s. built Valley Arts California Pro that's the same way too.

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No pictures yet, too busy this weekend. I did notice the neck has a little more wiggle room than I thought, so with the screws backed off a bit I should be able to adjust it some. I can either throw a .012" B string or wait and buy new strings, probably Monday or Tuesday. I don't know how I would feel if I couldn't get things aligned better, but I'm thinking between that and the flat 12" radius I may move on.

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Well there was the Predator AX from the mid 90's that had 4 single coils 2 at the bridge arrange side by side like Humbuckers. The pickups all solid white covers and the pole pieces weren't exposed. These had better sealed tuners, only one volume one tone control and between them a 3 way mini toggle that offered some additional switching options.


At some point it was offered with a slightly different styling and pickups with exposed pole pieces.

 

My first "good" guitar was a Predator AX that I bought brand new, they all had rosewood boards I think. I still have it, but it needs new frets. Tuners are pretty good, I think they might be Gotoh (or Grover?) tuners. Original pickups sounded OK, but nothing special..

 

I also have a Peavey Odyssey and a HP Special. Both really good guitars..

 

Old photo of my Predator. Some of you have probably seen it before..

 

6ba1ab95.jpg

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My #1 is a 1988 Peavey Nitro Custom Ltd. I had to change the bridge and pickups, but it's most definitely a keeper. The standard bolt-ons don't do it for me, but they're a lot more common. Mine is a neck-thru that was a limited run of 700. I have #3, BTW. http://s127.photobucket.com/albums/p146/one4rich/Gear%20Pics/?action=view&current=PeaveyNitro001.jpg

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