First Ever u6crash Design/Build Thread

[Freeman Keller]

The answer to your router table question is that it probably would work if you set the two fences and bit very carefully. I do have a router table but when I want straight square sides I simply clamp a piece of 2 x 1/4 aluminum thats about 4 feet long to the piece I'm working with. I actually sandwich the work piece between the 2 x 1/4 and my work bench so it overhangs the edge of the work bench. I use several clamps (Quick Clamps work nicely) and I remove them as I need to pass that portion of the wood). I use a large base on the router and simply hold it flat on the 2 x 1/4. You have to be careful to set the depth of the cut so it doesn't either hit the aluminum or leave a little ledge of wood (which can easily be taken off with a chisel or sand paper if you leave the 2 x 1/4 clamped to it. I don't have a picture, sorry.

 

If you do decide to use a router table for that joint let me know how it works (and practice on scrap)

 

As far as routing the truss rod channel, as I've said a couple of times, be sure to think thru all of the operations that you are going to do to the neck in the order that you want to do them. It is very important to keep as many flat square surfaces as you can to index off of. I have just clamped a straight piece of something on top of the neck blank (assuming your t/r installs from the top) and run the router down it but I find it is much easier to do on the table. Set the fences parallel to the center line of the neck, mark on the neck stock where you want the channel to end (you won't be able to see it. I don't have a picture of a Fender style neck but here is one where the adjuster will be in the body. There will be a head plate that covers the end of the rod - if I wanted the adjuster in the head end I would just drill thru the head plate.

 

 

You can do the same thing - start at the heel and go almost to the headstock, then stop. Drill into the end (Hiscock shows how to make that jig) and plug the little bit of channel at the heel. I have always used a flat bottom channel for the double acting rods that I like. Cut the channel in several passes - if you make a filler for the end you don't need to drill any starting holes.

 

Fenders frequently have a curved truss rod installed from the back of the neck - Hiscock shows how to make a router sled to do that.

 

You table saw will be ideal for ripping stock for your neck, a band saw tends to wander slightly as you saw thicker material. Rule of thumb, table saws are good for straight cuts in moderately thick stock, band saws are good for curves and thin stuff.

 

As far as finish, we could write an entire book on the subject. My personal preference is a smooth glossy deep finish like you would expect on a high end guitar like a PRS or top of the line Gibbie - I've used both nitro (in rattle cans and shot from a gun) and water born lacquer (I like KTM-9). Both give equally good finished, each has potential problems and advantages. Another option are some of the "furniture" finishes - various oils and varnishes, and a gun stock oil called Tru-Oil. I just finished some tele bodies with Tru-Oil where I wanted more of an organic finish. My feeling is that if you want the high quality finish your options are pretty much some sort of lacquer. Again, Hiscock has a good but brief discussion on finish and I recommend Earlewine's book on finishing. If you want more of my experience I would be happy to share it.

[u6crash]

I might have to look into the KTM-9. I heard that compared favorably to the Enduro-Var product.

 

I can see starting at the heel end with the router and making the channel that way. I thought it might be considered "unprofessional," but who is ever going to see it?

 

Thanks again for all your insights! It's definitely been a big help.

[u6crash]

Might end up trying it with a router table. I took a long aluminum level, clamped it to my MDF and routed the MDF straight. Then I clamped my top piece under the MDF, ran the bearing along the MDF and routed the the side of the walnut board flush. It looked good, it felt good, but when I hold them up I get light through the middle almost like the level or MDF bowed at one point and gave me slightly curved sides. Might try again with more clamps or something. It's cold out, I'm tired, and my hands are chapped. Need to regroup and gather my thoughts.

[Freeman Keller]

I'm not saying a router table won't work, its just that I've never done it. And its funny, I've joined literally dozens of backs and tops and I've got lots of pictures of the gluing and clamping but none of preparing the seam. I'll just say that I've used both the router and straigthedge and shooting board and plane and both have worked well for me.

 

 

 

For the final sanding get something very flat and longer than your tops - a carpenter's level works very well, stick some sand paper on it with double sticky tape, clamp it to your work bench so it created a square surface and run your top pieces back and forth against it.

 

Get that seam perfect because any glue in the seam will show under your finish (that is something to really remember - AR glue shows up badly under finish).

[u6crash]

When I was at the store last I looked at all their levels and was concerned about either texture or manufacturing defects that might prevent them from being suitable for sanding that seam. However, it dawned on me that I have a thick glass top on an exposure unit in the basement that may work well. As a bonus, I can lay the boards out on the lit up table and check for gaps.

[u6crash]

Well, despite being scheduled to work the last six weekends, I am still trying to build a guitar.

 

 

This is the first top (or back) glued up. I think I'm going to try a different clamping method for the next one. I've got this side cleaned up, but the opposite side still has some glue on it. Also, it's not perfectly flat. Neither half was perfectly flat before clamping, so maybe it makes sense that they would spring back a bit?

 

 

Here are the strips for the neck. Would you believe I had never used a table saw before the day I cut these? It went okay until the very last strip I cut in which I somehow managed to explode the makeshift pushstick I made. Most of the surfaces are actually really nice and smooth. I used a 60 tooth blade to rip the boards. I did some tests with my Safe-T-Planer and I wasn't thrilled with the results I was getting so I haven't planed these yet. I'd hoped to have the neck blank all glued up before I posted any further pictures, but I leave for Texas tomorrow evening. When I get back I'll have a couple days off still and an actual free weekend for a change, so maybe I'll get some more done on this thing.

[u6crash]

Egads. It's been two months since I posted any progress. Apologies. My employer has had me working six days a week and at one point I worked a 19 day stretch with no days off. My mother has had some medical issues (she is getting brain surgery tomorrow). To summarize: It's been crazy.

 

Here are some pictures:

 

 

I made a quick makeshift router sled to plane the strips of walnut and maple for my neck. I used a whopping 2" surface planing bit (bottom cleaning) for this operation. I started out simply used double sided tape (I think it's carpet tape) to hold down the strips. This worked for the most part. I did have a safety incident in which I launched a piece of maple at myself and across the garage. Took me a while to find it. It all happened pretty fast, but I think what I did was somehow tilt the router. It was humbling to say the least.

 

 

 

Here's the neck glued up. I really didn't want to use too much glue, but better too much than not enough. I spread it on each side of each strip with an expired Subway gift card and I really thought I wouldn't get as much squeeze out as I did.

 

 

 

This is maybe my favorite picture of the bunch. Look at those laminations! You can also see a hint of my improved routing sled with screws that help to keep any piece from moving.

 

 

 

I'd previously tackled one of the walnut pieces to be used for the top (or back) and now have glued the second one. I tried to improve my clamping methods from the first time, but I feel that this one didn't turn out quite as well. It's not awful, but I get the sense that this is the one I'll be using for the back.

 

 

 

Here are all the wood pieces I have to date: Walnut top and back, two-piece maple body core (underneath plywood template), neck laminate, and MDF neck template. You can see the neck blank is funky and has some ugly spots. Since I'm going to use a headplate and backplate for the neck, none of that will be see. Also the gouging in the top will be removed when I cut down the headstock.

 

The neck blank is still a little large at something like 0.830", but I want to improve my router sled before I continue to plane it to size (and it might not be a bad idea to keep it a little large in case I make mistakes carving it).

 

I also think I might cut apart the two-piece maple core. I have a scrap piece of walnut about an inch thick and over an inch tall that I'd like to sandwich in the middle. One reason is that I fear my attempt to clamp and glue it wasn't the best the first time around. Another is it frees me up from trying to perfectly align the centerline of the top, back, and middle on both ends. This way if I'm a bit off it will be much more difficult to tell.

 

The really sad thing is that everything you see in these pictures was done in the last two weeks. If I'm exhausted when I get home from a long day at work I get nervous about using power tools. Still have to get a bit the proper size to rout the truss rod channel, make a jig to cut my fret slots (and get a fret saw), and some other stuff. I'll try to take inventory and make a to-do list this weekend.

 

[Freeman Keller]

I was wondering what happened to you (and your build). Sorry to hear about all the speed bumps, glad you are back and moving forward. Hope your mother's surgery goes well.

 

Just remember to show the highest respect to routers. They are scary machines, but very necessary for what we are doing. There is a thread at one of the lutherie forums right now about a guy who wasn't patient enough to let it spin all the way down before he lifted it out of the work - it jumped and too the end of his finger off. Frankly routers scare the hell out of me - don't ever use it when you are not at your best.

 

I often find building to be a great escape from daily life but I've learned not to do it when I'm tired or stressed.

 

btw - route your truss rod channel while your neck still has parallel sides. You can either do it with the router on top and some sort of edge guide or on a router table, but its really nice to be able to reference the side. If you are doing a Fender style curved rod you'll need to make a sled, if its a modern double acting rod its much simpler.

[u6crash]

Yep. I'm definitely fearful of the router. When I had my mishap I tried to figure out exactly what happened so that I didn't repeat it. Using a modern double acting rod. I'll have to see if I can use the sides to rout it. My headstock ears are a little oversize so they might be in the way.

[Phil O'Keefe]

Egads. It's been two months since I posted any progress. Apologies. My employer has had me working six days a week and at one point I worked a 19 day stretch with no days off. My mother has had some medical issues (she is getting brain surgery tomorrow). To summarize: It's been crazy.

 

 

 

Mojo sent - here's hoping work eases up a bit, but most importantly that everything goes well with your mom's operation.

 

[DeepEnd]

Egads. It's been two months since I posted any progress. Apologies. My employer has had me working six days a week and at one point I worked a 19 day stretch with no days off. My mother has had some medical issues (she is getting brain surgery tomorrow). To summarize: It's been crazy. . . .

Sorry to hear about your mom. Sound like you've had your hands full. Prayers and mojo coming your way.