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Volume Drop Issues


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Ok insulting all of us poor people and our true bypass and crappy amps is one thing but this post just shows what kind of asshole you really are.

 

 

Where did I insult anyone??? I've been giving solid info, where you came in here spouting crap like usual. Go eat a bag of dicks. If you want to mistakenly equate my intolerance of your douchebaggery, as being an asshole, then I am fine with that.

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Obviously your problem is that you wont spend more money on amplifiers. Dont you listen.



Actually, I don't have a problem yet because I don't gig out with a band anymore. I would just like the edification, and I know Zachman knows what he's talking about while I'm on the subject.

I'm quite happy with my amps :D Those aren't going anywhere.

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Lets see did these come from
www.therhodeo.com
or
www.zachpeterson.com??
Oh big points for you for only having 2.
:rolleyes:

1gear.jpg

Picture20205.jpg

 

What is your point??? OH, I know... You want to show how I am a big on not paying retail and wanted to point out the fact that I got the Black and white stripped Fender guitar for $100, or am I missing something??? Perhaps you just don't like stripes on guitars... I don't know, but you didn't comment on the other 9+ guitars, also on my site or the 1x12 rig that I use for normal small to medium size rooms, which is also on my site. You are trying, like always to paint a BS picture, while attempting to hijack a thread, AGAIN... while offering up no useful info.

 

Sorry to be the one to have to tell you, BUT while it's true, you don't always have to spend a lot of $$$ to get something that sounds good, it's also true that NOT all fixes, or solutions are going to be affordable for everyone... DEAL WITH IT.

 

Here is some cheese to go with your intolerable whine:

 

cheeseandwine.jpg

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Thats about $75 more than I'd pay. Hello 1984!



Of that I'm certain... That would indicate that you would realize that the American Fender Strat could be refinished and still sold for a profit, making it a no brainer... But you are just an antagonist that insists on getting pwned over and over again.

Moron :lol:

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Nice seashore painting. Do you live in a 1970's Red Lobster or did you just buy all the old decorations from one?

 

Oh that was stuff that I got when I bought that home, negotiated to include the furnishings in the purchase and sold for a profit. :wave:

 

You see, doing things right, means $$$ to buy guitar toys and other things that whiners like rhodeoclown complain about NOT being able to do.

 

You clowns are useless. Thanks for proving it over and over again

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it's mean to make fun of home decorations. anyways, as good as the Red Lobster angle was, clearly this is this person's mother/grandmother's living room so a serious comedic opportunity was wasted.

 

Zach thanks for your reply i mean you no harm.

 

Edited:

 

that was stuff that I got when I bought that home.

 

 

ah.

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it's mean to make fun of home decorations. anyways, as good as the Red Lobster angle was, clearly this is this person's mother/grandmother's living room so a serious comedic opportunity was wasted.


Zach thanks for your reply i mean you no harm.


Edited:



ah.

 

 

No worries, I can appreciate the humor attempt, but the fact that these guys are clearly not interested in helping address the OP's thread, illustrates how limp they really are. The fact that they want to get hostile because I have gear options that they don't, make suggestions that they either don't understand or are simply incapable of understanding, speaks more about their inability to step up their game, than it does mine.

 

FACT: It's a pay to play game.

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Solution: Buy pedals that don't have a volume drop. A $50 solution to a $50 pedal's volume drop problem is greater than or equivalent to a $100 pedal that does not have a problem.

The idea is to think first, spend money later. And spend money on crap pedals never.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by ChitownTerror View Post

FACT: You did address the issues of the OP. You RULE.


Also, I lack the ability to understand a simple analogy. I've got nothing

FIXED

 

 

As the good book says, though,

 

When thou dost engage thyself with thine enemy dost thou not in part lower thyself even unto his own level?

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Solution: Buy pedals that don't have a volume drop. A $50 solution to a $50 pedal's volume drop problem is greater than or equivalent to a $100 pedal that does not have a problem.


The idea is to think first, spend money later. And spend money on crap pedals never.

 

 

YUP... Unfortunately, there are always exceptions, as some guys like the tone of a particular pedal, and the higher cost is worth it to them to have THAT particular sonic stamp, that their favorite/preferred pedal provides, which is why I stated earlier in the thread options OTHER than just, "get better pedals".

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YUP... Unfortunately, there are always exceptions, as some guys like the tone of a particular pedal, and the higher cost is worth it to them to have THAT particular sonic stamp, that their favorite/preferred pedal provides, which is why I stated earlier in the thread options OTHER than just, "get better pedals".

 

 

Precisely. I'm not having any volume drop issues with my EHX fx yet, because I don't use them live right now. Even if I did, I would not look for a substitute for the Flanger Hoax, for example - as far as I know, there is no substitute. Should I come upon an opportunity to use them live, I'd like to know my options. For now, I fall in the "I don't give a rat's a**" category.

 

Thanks for the info Zachman. You aren't unappreciated.

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What they are essentially are programmable patchbays, that can be controlled via MIDI.


Yes, they will work w/ EHX pedals. The main issue w/ EHX pedals is that they are VERY easily clipped on their input and the way people typically use pedals are either directly into the amp input, in an amps effects loop OR a combination of BOTH. The problem is that unfortunately, there is no real standard for effects loops and not all loops are created equally, same for pedals.


Here is a little info from the FAQ page of Custom Audio Electronics' website, that may be of interest:


The first thing you need to decide is what type of system you are going to need, and the next is how big. We'll start with type. There are 2 basic types of systems with variations on each:


A. Pre-effects System

This is the typical "pedal" based system. Pedals are inserted in the signal path between the guitar output and the amp (or amps) input. Pedal effects are typically considered low (or instrument) level devices, although there are exceptions.


B. Post-effects System

This is the Preamp/Power amp type of system. This often utilizes line level "rack gear" between the Preamp out and Power amp input. Rack mount type effects are often considered Line (high) level devices capable of handling higher signal levels found between Preamps/Power amps and in amp effects loops. Of course, there are exceptions to this as well. Often, the rack effects have level matching switches or internal modes that change their operating level to maintain the lowest possible noise floor.


Of course, there are many variations to these setups. You may have pedals you want to use with your Preamp/Power Amp rig (before or after the Preamp). Or you may have some piece of "rack gear" you want to use between your guitar and amp input. Or, you may have a combination Preamp/Power amp along with amp heads/cabinets or combo amps along with pedals and "rack gear". Anything goes. Remember, a rack-mounted piece of gear doesn't mean it always has to run at line (high) level, just as all pedals don't mean you have to run them at instrument (low) level. See Level Shifting Circuits. Or you may have some pedals between your guitar and amp input (low level), and some rack stuff in the loop of the amp (high level). Anything goes here as long as you have enough loops and foot switches to control them.


(This is where the main issue that you are talking about is centered)


Level Shifting Circuits-

Often it is necessary to boost or cut signal level to and from various devices. For example, you may want to use instrument level pedals in the line level effects loop of your amp (or between your Preamp and power amp). Or perhaps you want to use a piece of line level (rack) gear between your guitar and amp. Companies like Custom Audio Electronics, can provide the necessary circuits to make this happen.


Why would I want a switching (loop) system over a traditional pedal board?


Pedal boards are fine if you just want a few pedals and your switching needs are basic. Custom Audio Electronics builds them all the time. But if you are truly serious about your tone, and you want many sound options available to you at any time (not to mention preset combinations and midi program change capability), a switching system is the way to go. No one said you have to turn on all the stuff at the same time! Besides, THERE IS NO CLEANER SIGNAL PATH FROM GUITAR TO AMP THAN WITH A SWITCHING SYSTEM, PERIOD.
With a pedal board, even if every effect is bypassed, and you have "100% bypass" switches in all your effects (which is rare), you are still running through every pedal, and every cable and connection in the system. If something fails, good luck finding it. There is still a major capacitive buildup (which results in a severe loss of tone, mainly high end) because your signal must go through each cable and pedal. This is why signal buffers are so important.
With a CAE switching system, troubleshooting is easy because you can bypass to get effects out of the signal path, and you can patch in between various places in the signal path, when you know what to look for. With a CAE custom switching system (I can't vouch for other manufacturers) the majority of the signal path is hard wired internally, and with a loop based system bypassing the effect bypasses the cables connecting the effect as well! This is impossible with a traditional pedal board.



Way to self-justify the $$ you wasted! :thu:

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