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Bah!!! Now I remember why I didn't own any floating tremelo guitars


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Put the Dimaz evo in the bridge of the Ibby Prestige a couple days ago. I was looking forward to trying it out at practice tonight.

 

When I installed pup, put new strings on. No tuner at the house. Tune by ear (close). Get to practice. Spend at least 30 minutes tuning back and forth between headstock and fine tuners. Band member running late. Shows up. Tune again. Bust high E. FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU.................

 

Luckily brought my Silverburst tele because we planned on some drop d {censored}. Ended up using it the rest of the night because no time to {censored} with the new string and floating trem.

 

Frustrated. Thinking of offing Ibby for a hardtail.

 

 

This has been the cliffnotes version because I'm tired.

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Like the guitar a lot but the sole reason I bought it was to have a "whammy trick" guitar. I guess I'm just pissed the string busted and I didn't get a chance to run the newly installed evo pup through the band rehearsal test. :mad:

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couple tricks when using a trem guitar. Stretch the strings damn good after you install them, otherwise you'll be retuning every time you use the trem. Hold the pads on the locking nut as you are securing the bolts, as you don't want them moving. Also, try and use some graphite on the knife edges where it pivots, and also on the saddles where the string makes contact with the bridge. It really helps tuning stability and string durability.

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I always found that when the whole guitar keeps going sharp or flat with a trem, just tighten or loosen the springs accordingly and it should stay in tune fine. If the guitar keeps going sharp loosen the tension on the springs and vice/versa... It's usually just a matter of balanced tension between the strings and springs. I never keep the spring covers on the backs of my guitars anymore to make this easier.. Replacing the springs every so often helps too.

 

If I pop a string at the bridge (where they usually break), I usually loosen the nut lock, pop the broken part out of the saddle, undo one wind from the post and put the loose end of the string in the bridge lock, and retune and relock the string. It always seems to get me through the gig, and usually takes a minute or two for me.

 

I know a lot of people hate trems, but doing this has always made mine easy to set up. The wood block always works well too, as I have two D-Tunas on trems and I did the one way block. I miss the flutters, but I have no tuning stability issues.

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If you stay with one tunning, nothing stays in tune better than a Floyd.


I can string change faster than a hardtail if I break a string on a floyd by simply feeding the extra winding on the tunning post back into the tail piece string lock.

 

 

 

 

Then you suck at stringing guitars. Seriously. If you have Floyd axes that hold tune better than a decent hardtail... well that sucks for you. Congrats, you just learned you fail at yet another aspect in life.

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The easiest way is to change each string individually. The next would be to put something under the bridge to keep it in the correct position during the string change. I've been doing string changes on floating floyd rose type bridges for 25+yrs, but I don't use either method, I remove all the strings at once with nothing under the bridge. I depress the bar so the trem is parallel to the body, tune it, clamp the nut and fine tune. I know which strings on my guitar will go flat so I set the fine tuners to reflect that.

 

It really just comes from doing string changes 1000's of times on the same guitars, eventually you get a system that works. I say stick with it and do some homework and find a way that works for you. Once a floating trem is setup correctly there really isn't anything out there that is more stable considering what you can do with them once everything is locked up.

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Like mentioned above- new strings need stretched really well. Makes all the difference. I tune the low E,A, and D strings sharp to accommodate a little for when they go flat after tuning the G,b and high E. Keeps me from doing alot of circles.

 

All the fine tuners should be about 50-60% screwed in before tuning the guitar. I change all my strings at once by holding the trem with a folded microfiber cloth after pushing the bar in. Hope that helps.

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Then you suck at stringing guitars. Seriously. If you have Floyd axes that hold tune better than a decent hardtail... well that sucks for you. Congrats, you just learned you fail at yet another aspect in life.

 

 

 

What's funny is you have no idea who you're talking to, how do you know he doesn't have a clue, did you look at his gear listed? Looks like he probably has plenty of experience with both and to tell you the truth I've seen a guy break a string mid song with a floating floyd bridge, change it and by the time the solo came up he was back in business and played the rest of the gig in tune.

 

The thing you may be missing here is the amount of string that stretches and what's going on at the tuning post, those two things are significantly reduced with a floyd. Once that string is locked down you get minimal stretching and no slippage from the tuners.

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Then you suck at stringing guitars. Seriously. If you have Floyd axes that hold tune better than a decent hardtail... well that sucks for you. Congrats, you just learned you fail at yet another aspect in life.

 

Fail by you.

 

If you seriously are saying that a guitar with the string locked down at both ends will not stay in tune better than one with the string simply fed through the bridge and wrapped around the tunning post, you have a lot to learn.

 

Obviously a floyd hater, or someone not capible of mastering how to use one.

 

I can get my non-floyd guitars to stay in tune just fine, but a Floyd locked guitar will always be more stable.

 

Have another drink buddy................... :facepalm:

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Fail by you.


If you seriously are saying that a guitar with the string locked down at both ends will not stay in tune better than one with the string simply fed through the bridge and wrapped around the tunning post, you have a lot to learn.


Obviously a floyd hater, or someone not capible of mastering how to use one.


I can get my non-floyd guitars to stay in tune just fine, but a Floyd locked guitar will always be more stable.


Have another drink buddy...................
:facepalm:

 

 

You're a Seattle guy, the guy I was talking about that did the fastest string change on a floyd I've ever seen was John Devol from Culprit, {censored} that guy blew my mind with that, I thought I could do a quick change, man he had me beat.

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Anyone have experience with a tremol-no?

 

 

They work O.K. They are great for 1 string at a time changes, but if you need to take all the strings at once and do some maintenance , the little 3/16 rod and two thumb screws can't hold that kind of pressure to keep the bridge in place. Otherwise, in my short experience, so far mine works as advertised.

 

My thought's on Floyds in general, at first I was a hater, but I've turned a 180 on my opinion on them. Ya, they are a pain in the ass to work on, but once you get it set up right, they don't go out of tune. It takes some serious abuse to knock 'em out of tune.

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You're a Seattle guy, the guy I was talking about that did the fastest string change on a floyd I've ever seen was John Devol from Culprit, {censored} that guy blew my mind with that, I thought I could do a quick change, man he had me beat.

 

 

I've known John Devol for many years.

Bought a number of guitars from him over the years from the music store he manages.

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