bridge pins sticking in bridge

[masterbuilt]

I went to change strings last night and I had a hard time removing the bridge pins. In over 40 years playing, I have never encountered trouble like this. So, I figured that the bridge on this Parkwood PW320M must not have been fully dried when the bridge was cut and drilled.

 

The neck is fine. The guitar is fine, no signs of dryness. The git remains in the case when not in use. So... a little work with the Dremel Tool and now the strings are back in place.

 

Of course, my thought is this: "How much more shrink will take place?" -- And -- "Will the bridge pop-off as a result of it?"

 

These and other questions might be answered before long.

 

Ah, gotta love the market demand for Chinese-made imports and high production numbers. Is demand for rosewood bridges that high in Asian manufacturing plants? Perhaps... or, it may have been one bad bridge... or ...there might be no further incidents.

[gitnoob]

 

Of course, my thought is this: "How much more shrink will take place?"

 

 

5.8% max.

 

http://www.fs.fed.us/ccrc/topics/urban-forests/docs/physical%20properties%20and%20moisture%20relations%20of%20wood.pdf

[Emory]

Just what did you do with the Dremel? If my pins stick, I push them out from inside the guitar (they can get quite stuck here in humid Thailand).

[masterbuilt]

 

5.8% max. http://www.fs.fed.us/ccrc/topics/urban-forests/docs/physical%20properties%20and%20moisture%20relations%20of%20wood.pdf

 

 

That's quite a reference. Thanks Gitnoob.

[masterbuilt]

 

Just what did you do with the Dremel? If my pins stick, I push them out from inside the guitar (they can get quite stuck here in humid Thailand).

 

 

I used the Dremel to bore out the holes a bit to accommodate the pins when I replaced the strings. Since the rest of the guitar is stable, I believe that the issue is only with the rosewood and not the mahogany back and sides, nor the spruce top. The rosewood was not properly dried before the bridge was cut and drilled. I used a Dremel "cone" with a medium grit to do this at 15,000 rpm working in short intervals.

[Grant Harding]

Wow - that's a scary way to enlarge the holes! You sure the angle of the cone is right? How did you keep from going in too deep?

[panhandler]

A lil graphite helps too.

[garthman]

In this situation I usually shave a little off the sides of the bridge pins - a new set of pins only costs a few $$$ if I cock up.

[fingerpicker]

When this happens, push the string down into the hole. This should release the pressure that the ball on the string might be putting on the pin.

[Jimmy Chaos]

I grab a plectrum, stick my hand in the sound hole and push up from inside, I used to try it with my fingers, but it really hurt, also using the plactrum gives you added leverage.

[Bridgepin]

In this situation I usually shave a little off the sides of the bridge pins - a new set of pins only costs a few $$$ if I cock up.

 

 

Yeah I have to agree, I will sand the pin to fit the bridge unless the bridge was not tapered yet

[knockwood]

I almost always find that I'm not crazy about the fit of Martin's pins. I figure they know what they're doing so there is probably some design to this, but they always seem to sit a bit proud of the bridge and, although this is really not any kind of functional problem, it irks me visually. So when I buy bridge pins for my Martins from Bob Colosi, I always buy a size smaller than I am *supposed to,* and they invariably fit perfectly, particularly as I tend to use medium gauge strings. I suppose it might be a problem if I were to use lights.

 

I don't think I would have gone to work on my bridge with the Dremel, though. Would probably have done the job on the pins instead. But if you know what you're doing, I guess it's no big whoop.

[Tartanlad]

I just normally use a coin and with hand inside the soundhole just push the pin

upwards and out..also as ive heard since sanding a little fae the sides

of the bridge-pin should do the trick

[masterbuilt]

The cone I used worked perfectly and was a perfect match for the bridge-pin contour. It solved the problem, but I would remind people that try this to take it easy and work very carefully.