badpenguin

Welcome to the insanity! As our esteemed, or lightly steamed with butter and bacon, mod said, WMI built your guitar. (Can you tell I haven't had dinner yet?) Dean has gone thru at least 4 different owners since they were created in the mid 70's. Now built in Asia, the serial numbers seem to be a random assortment of digits. Best bet, look at the features of your guitar, bolt on neck, 3x3 headstock, 22/24 frets 2 humbuckers, then look for catalogs or reviews on the guitar, that may help you get a reasonable guesstimation on the age. Hope that helps.

Made cheesesteaks from left over prime rib, and planning to hit the hot tub. Afterwards, give my Ibanez GB10 a workout. (And my cats a headache!)

Bass VI fixed bridge upgrade | Telecaster Guitar Forum (tdpri.com) Dude. Google, seriously.

If you use the Danelectro diagram you first posted, you would add a wire from the red wire, to the tone switch, then to ground. There, simple. The switch would be a simple on/off/on, that would require a hole drilled into the pickguard. you would still be able to use the dano's standard tone controls, with the ability to flick the tone switch, and add more treble cut. I don't know why you would want the added "mush" by that's on you. Another option, well 2 really, would be adding a bass contour knob. Used by Reverend guitars for the last 20 years or so, and now Yamaha is doing it, it's a control that cuts out a bit of bass. If using high gain, it helps cleaning up the mud. Again, simply wire it from the out of the 3 way Now the second option: Bill Lawrence Q filter circuit. Q-filter – Bill and Becky Wilde Pickups I have one, works wonders, making a humbucker sound like a true single coil. How much you will use it on a dana, who knows.

I am assuming that by choke, you mean a bass cut? Not with a simple cap you can. You would need the varitone circuit to do that. The Gretsch diagram above only allows for treble cuts.

Yep. And yes, only the one wire and a ground wire. When the switch is engaged, the signal will go thru the cap and the high end will go to ground.

Ok, let's start with the neck pickup wiring first. It's wired, thru the push/pull switch, for series/parallel wiring. Basically turning the humbucker into 2 single coils. Think of the difference of a Gibson and a Gretsch sound wise. Growl vrs clarity. But when dealing with single coils on a Dano, it doesn't matter, it can't be done on the single pickup. The bridge is wired for phase/out of phase, giving the guitar a funky/thin kind of tone. Depending on the situation, it's a cool tone. Can be done with 2 single coils. Then it goes to a coil tap switch. That will kill the one coil, making it sound like a single coil. Again, on a single coil pickup, you can't do it. All 3 volumes have a treble bleed added to them. What that does, thru a 001 capacitor, it allow you to drop the volume, without losing the high end. Ever notice how whan you turn down a pickup, it gets a little darker or muddy sounding? That's because when you turn it down, some of the high frequencies go to ground. A treble bleed keeps all the high end, no matter how low the volume goes. I have that on some of my guitars, others, I like having it get a bit darker. Since this diagram doesn't have a tone control, like Gretches sometimes don't, it uses a 3 way switch that allows for 3 options: one being the .012 cap, middle being no cap, and the 3rd being the .0039 cap. A few years ago, I rebuilt an old Gretch using the tone switch. I used a .22, and a .15. I personally think it work better without the treble bleeds. you can control the tone a bit more when you lower the volume. Especially with the master volume control. Hope that helps!

Ok, I am having problems understanding what you are asking for. If you are trying to add a second tone switch, just follow the diagram for a single one, twice. OR, wire a on/off/on with the caps of your choice, after the volume controls.

Quite welcome, that'll be $199.99 for bench fees.

I have the SX/Rondo version of the that guitar, called the "Liquid" or some nonsense like that. Mine has actual P90 copies, that make it TWANG with the best of them. The bridge was the nightmare component. A rattle trap, designed to make it sound more sitar-ish, then guitar. Took some time hunting down something that worked, but I did, and love it for that surf vibe. Add LOTS of verb and tremolo, and off you go, on a 60's trip without the headache afterwards! That big screw IS for tension on the tailpiece. And I find that after LOTS of adjusting, 10's stay in tune real well. As for arm swing/popping out, I use a bit of shrink wrap on the threaded ends of the arm. Works. For the most part! And me being me, added a 4 way pickup selector switch for N, N+B series, N+B Parallel, B.

With action like that at the 12th, and any lower, it buzzes everywhere... tells me there's a wonky fret somewhere in the 15-22 mark.

Very nice! what model? I have a 2500 that is solid mahogany, NO maple, and heavy as all hell. Love it to death!

Ok, the standard is B500K for volume pots, A500K for tone pots, .22 for caps. Vintage Gibsons used 330K pots. And no, they won't sound like PAFs. Smaller coils, less wire, smaller magnets.... so of course they will sound different. A bit brighter sounding humbucker. in most cases, when given the choice, I go for P90's. Same size, better tone. To my ears at least.

Thoughts.... What's the action at the nut like? Pictures would help. Has the neck been adjusted? It's that time of year where I pick up a guitar, notice the tuning is off, and out comes my truss rod adjuster. Tailpiece... simple: either raise the tail piece, which is allowed, it doesn't have to be bolted down to the body, OR top wrap the strings over the tailpiece. I personally hate that, but others love it. There's no wrong way to have YOUR guitar. The static issue.... Rub fabric sheets over the plastic. Rub it on the back of the guitar, Rub it on the front of the guitar. Rub it on the neck. And again. Pictures always help.

No.

Well, you can still use the same diagram. Just solder the white and bare together as ground.

And no. Humbuckers CAN be wired in series, such as Gretsch pickups from the 60-80's. Instead of joining the end of coil one coil to the start of the other coil, as in a Gibson, the start of both coils are hot, and the ends are grounded. It's a brighter sound compared to a parallel humbucker. Ok, you said blend earlier, so that's how I got confused. Assuming your push/pull is a 500KB pot, and your stacked/concentric pot is a 500KA pot, we will use the p/p as volume, and the concentrics as 2 tones. I SUCK PROFESSIONALLY at any kind of drawing, even with a computer, so bare with it. Let's start at the first two switches. Very simple on/off, center tabs get soldered, then go to volume pot. One side of the first switch goes to the pickup hot. In this case, your red wire. That same wire will go to the push/pull. See? The drawn red wire is your bridge pickup. Should make sense. Oh, and the pink "blobs" are the capicitors. If this works, and it should, then we can add coil taps later on.

The white wire, in 90% of pickups, is the tap wire. (Ibanez in the 90's used the opposite. White hot, red tap.) IF not using a coil tap, the white wire is taped off and ignored.

Ok, series/parallel can't be done on a 3 conductor pickup. It would need to be rewired to a 4 conductor. You CAN do a master series/parallel using the 3 conductor pickups. (Instead of each pickup being s/p, both pickups can be used to create a "super humbucker" pickup. ie: Gibson EB3L 4 way switch.) So, that leaves the 2 slide switches, one push/pull for master series/parallel and volume, and one push/pull for coil tap on both pickups and tone. The blend pot can be used if you want to cut a 3rd hole in the pickguard. The 2 dpdt sliders or the spst sliders are for pickup on/off. (Your choice, go for the new dpdt. Just saying, why use 50 year old switches when you have new ones?) Let us know your thoughts.

From 13 years ago? Really people??

Ok, but you never answered the question of WHAT DO YOU WANT TO DO WITH WHAT YOU HAVE? If you want to have it stock, without the push/pulls and additional switches, just using the dpdt slide switches, then it's easy. Bare wires to ground, Ignore the white wire completely, red to center of slide switch, one side of the slide switch to the volume pot blah blah blah. Like this diagram shown here, just ignore the stuff BEORE the vol and tone control: 2 Humbuckers/3-Way Toggle Switch/1 Volume/1 Tone (guitarelectronics.com) Now if you want to add stuff, like coil tap, phase, which is stupid on a bass IMHO, series/parallel, etc, you HAVE to figure out what you want, and we can help guide you. But without direction, there's nothing we can do.

The question is: what kind of wiring are you trying to achieve? Series/parallel? Phase? Standard wiring?

That was the GFS build, right? Looks great!

You'll never know, since he never posts the results. Only the questions.