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A mahogany strat build


Bowen

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Thanks,

The truss rod route did not go exactly as planned though. The stewmac rod is 7/32" wide, I used a 1/4" router bit and I was not going to worry about the 1/64" inch gap on either side of the rod. Well, the 1st pass of the router bit in the table got me a .250" wide slot. The 2nd pass widened the slot to .261, and so on. As it turns out the Porter Cable 690 router that I use in the table does not rotate perfectly concentrically in it's base when I adjust the height, leaving me with a wider slot: .269". To correct for this I put a dado in the middle of the purpleheart strip for the truss rod to sit in. The sides of the dado ended up being ~ .003". That is pretty delicate tablesaw work that I would not care to repeat.



...thanks for this...

...i think i will do a pass on some scrap wood to make sure my router don't have the type of prob you describe

...good way round the prob with the adaptation of the purpleheart strip :thu:

...i doubt player will eva notice :D

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I got a few more things done today.

 

Installing the frets. The fretwire is jumbo stainless from LMII. I've used other stainless wires, this seems to be the most consistent. I am hammering the wire in with a 8oz brass hammer.

58.jpg

 

Frets are installed, time to trim the fret ends. If the neck were profiled I would use a mill file and some sweat. On this neck I'll used the oscillating belt sander.

59.jpg

 

Works great! I have to watch out for overheating the fretwire and blistering the lacquer. That happened a little bit on the 1st and 2nd frets.

60.jpg

 

To start shaping the neck I use the bandsaw and cut it to thickness. I'll mostly be using 4 scary sharp spokeshaves and a scraper.

61.jpg

 

To start shaping the neck I like to use a drum sander and rough in the contour at the nut and heel. That gives the spokeshaves a place to start and finish.

62.jpg

 

In just a few minutes the neck is rough shaped. Time for the scraper and sandpaper.

63.jpg

 

Neck is shaped to a slightly asymetrical very soft V. This feels very comfortable to me. I've sanded to 400 grit.

64.jpg

 

The truss rod nut is filed flush with the heel. I'm very happy with the fit, as this is the first time I've tried this type of neck construction.

65.jpg

 

I do not like lacquer on the back of a neck. I've french polished this one with garnet shellac. French polish is pretty easy to apply and builds very quickly.

66.jpg

 

 

Time for today's work: 5 hrs. Total time so far is about 35 hours or so.

 

edit: Oops, I got carried away again and did not install the side dot markers. I did drill the tuner holes though.

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One other thing. I've decided that I do not like the strat type nut. I changed the neck to use a gibby style nut.

 

I could not resist laying out everything all guitar shaped:

67.jpg

 

Next: drill the body for neck screws, bridge, and strap buttons, then spray more lacquer.

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One other thing. I've decided that I do not like the strat type nut. I changed the neck to use a gibby style nut.


I could not resist laying out everything all guitar shaped:

67.jpg

Next: drill the body for neck screws, bridge, and strap buttons, then spray more lacquer.



That's one of the most beautiful guitars i've ever seen! Can't wait til it's finished! You should send it to me when you're done ;)

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Just did a little bit today. I worked on the lacquer, it is nearly leveled. I still need to spray couple more coats. Drilled for the bridge screws, string through body holes, neck screws, pickguard, and output jack plate. When I routed the cavity I did not leave enough room for the bottom tone pot. I need to chisel the cavity out a bit for clearance.

I need to order black strap buttons and some black pickup adjustment and 5-way switch screws.

Next: complete the finish on the body, level the frets, install nut. The finish work will take a while, lacquer cures about as fast as Rush Limbaugh runs.

I did not take pictures today. It would have been pretty boring though, just lots of sanding and drilling.

As it sits now.
68.jpg

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Forget the 9" Ryobi bandsaws however. i will not cut through a 1.75" piece of wood all that great... if at all... I would say 14" minimum. However a jigsaw can easily be used.

 

 

I agree...I used a ryobi 9" bandsaw for a while. It is a great little tool for the price but it's just not big enough. I ended up grabbing a older used Jet 14" bandsaw for $100 from CL.

 

If you make CL your friend you can set up a complete shop of machine tools for less than the cost os a MIA strat. Hand tools are another thing though, I've probably spent 3x on hand tools than machine tools.

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