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Fix floating trem?


Munchlaxatives

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I recommend replacing the trem w/a Floyd, or Kahler. You can pick up a licensed Floyd on eBay pretty cheap (Schaller or Gotoh), Original would be a little more expensive. You don't have to have the locking nut, but it helps if you really plan on doing divebombs, or if you have weak tuners. I'm guessing from the guitar spec'd in your post that it probably has weaker tuners.

 

On the other hand, if you want to keep your existing trem, you might think about replacing the tuners. You didn't really specify what its doing, tuner prob., or trem sticking. If the trems sticking, that shouldn't be too hard to fix. May just be a matter of tension, or a bad cutout.

Hope I've been of some help. :thu:

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I recommend replacing the trem w/a Floyd, or Kahler. You can pick up a licensed Floyd on eBay pretty cheap (Schaller or Gotoh), Original would be a little more expensive. You don't have to have the locking nut, but it helps if you really plan on doing divebombs, or if you have weak tuners. I'm guessing from the guitar spec'd in your post that it probably has weaker tuners.


On the other hand, if you want to keep your existing trem, you might think about replacing the tuners. You didn't really specify what its doing, tuner prob., or trem sticking. If the trems sticking, that shouldn't be too hard to fix. May just be a matter of tension, or a bad cutout.

Hope I've been of some help.
:thu:

The trem stretches out the strings, so after a while, a few downstrokes send it way out of tune. It's happened to be a few times now.Installing a floyd is pretty expensive, no? With all the routing and stuff

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The trem stretches out the strings, so after a while, a few downstrokes send it way out of tune.

 

 

Stretch your strings to the max when you do a string change (with the clamps at the nut loose).

Then tighten the clamps and stretch a little more.

Then fine tune (at the bridge).

I've done this for years (and years) on many Floyd style bridges and never had a tuning problem.

The key is stretching the strings first ... ... ... ... ... :thu:

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The trem stretches out the strings, so after a while, a few downstrokes send it way out of tune. It's happened to be a few times now.


Installing a floyd is pretty expensive, no? With all the routing and stuff

 

Can be, but worth every penny. Thats why I also suggested new/higher end tuners. Some suggested turning it into a hardtail, but that's not why he wants to fix his trem, IMO. I was merely suggesting alternatives. I am installing a Floyd on a strat, as well as moving that blasted volume knob out of my way, and yes, it does require effort that some may not want to experience. :thu:

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Can be, but worth every penny. Thats why I also suggested new/higher end tuners. Some suggested turning it into a hardtail, but that's not why he wants to fix his trem, IMO. I was merely suggesting alternatives. I am installing a Floyd on a strat, as well as moving that blasted volume knob out of my way, and yes, it does require effort that some may not want to experience.
:thu:

 

Changing the tuners will have zero effect with a locking nut. Once the clamps are secured the tuners do nothing.

 

Adding another spring or two and/or replacing possibly worn springs will be much more effective. Especially after having installed heavier strings.

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I pulled up pics of the guitar, and didn't see a locking nut. You are right though, if it has a locking nut, tuner change will not help.

 

 

Even without a locking nut replacing the tuners is usually a fruitless endeavor. It's rarely ever the tuners that are at fault with tuning problems.

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Here is what I recommend. that Trem is called a fulcrum edge and they are notorious for making guitars go out of tune.

 

If there is a slam on Ibanez IMO - unless you have a locking Floyd they NEVER stay in tune. I havea 1982 Ibanez Destroyer II and my son has the 2006 SZ720 and both go out of tune even without Trems.

 

Suggest you buy a used Ibanez RG with a Floyd and swap the neck as you like it so much.

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Here is what I recommend. that Trem is called a fulcrum edge and they are notorious for making guitars go out of tune.


If there is a slam on Ibanez IMO - unless you have a locking Floyd they NEVER stay in tune. I havea 1982 Ibanez Destroyer II and my son has the 2006 SZ720 and both go out of tune even without Trems.


Suggest you buy a used Ibanez RG with a Floyd and swap the neck as you like it so much.

The pickups I have on it are 25 years old or so, I'd rather not move them to another guitar again.

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I had one with a similar bridge RG170R.

 

They are your typical floating non locking trem. It's all about seting them up properly, those cheap trems can be kept in tune if you don't abuse the bar. I however can't think of a reason why it would go out of tune just by strumming hard. I'm assuming that strings are properly stretched.

 

Blocking it would be a good idea, also adding a 3rd or even a 4th spring will make the trem more stable during normal playing.

 

Are you heavy a handed player when you strum?

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I had one with a similar bridge RG170R.


They are your typical floating non locking trem. It's all about seting them up properly, those cheap trems can be kept in tune if you don't abuse the bar. I however can't think of a reason why it would go out of tune just by strumming hard. I'm assuming that strings are properly stretched.


Blocking it would be a good idea, also adding a 3rd or even a 4th spring will make the trem more stable during normal playing.


Are you heavy a handed player when you strum?

Not at all, and I never use the trem. This is more of a recent problem, it was fine for a few months after I got it. It seems to be more of a problem with thicker strings.

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I don't know if that guitar is anything like a Strat. On a Strat, you can lower the tremolo flat against the body, tighten the screws on the claw (springs), raise up the bridge saddles, redo the intonation, and you have increased sustain and bass.

 

Wood works well to block the trem from the back (if having the trem against the body turns out to be a bad option for the guitar). Sanding a solid piece of wood to the exact size is one way. Or, you can buy wood shims from the hardware store if you want a quick and dirty solution....break them to fit.

 

The Trem Stop is a cheap solution. It works, but I think wood works a little bit better and adds more sustain.

 

The Tremol-No works well, but doesn't have the same sustain when locked as blocking the trem. Anyway, I think it's pointless to spend the time and money on that unless you want to switch between locked and floating.

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I talked to my local guitar store. They charge more to install a licensed (off-brand) Floyd than they do to install an Original. But the Original costs more than the off-brand, so it's a toss-up. Quick question: Is the trem sticking? Does it stay slightly up or down after you whammy? Or does it return to level? This question could help a little, I think. If the trem resets to level every time, but is out of tune after whammy, tuners may be the problem, no not typically, but could be, or could be a point made by pope on a rope of string stretching. You might try some DR strings, they tend to need less stretching.(Oh no, I'm a posterboy) Oh, and if the strings aren't wound properly (again with the stretching) a hard whammy will stretch the coil at the tuner, causing you to go out of tune. If the trem sticks slightly, and I mean slightly, its the trem. Probably need to check the routing. Spring change or added spring may help, might want to go to heavier springs, may have to look at the cutout. Checking/changing the springs, cutout, and strings are the cheapest/easiest routes. I would try those first. :thu:

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If this happened after bumping up string gouges, try adding the extra springs first, it would be very cheap to get the springs and there is no permanent modification to the guitar, all it would need is to be set up for the extra spring tension. quick and easy. (the extra springs will make the trem more stiff, and harder to 'move' under normal playing)

 

If that doesn't help than something else is going on and you can then try for trem blocking.

 

Also worth mentioning, those trems (I think it's called FAT10 or something similar) although are similar in funcionality to the Strat 2 point trems. They are not the kind that you can sunk all the way down and then pull the saddles up, as the saddles are fixed to the bridge base plate and can only move back and forward for intonation but not up or down.. The only way to get the trem to sit flat against the body would be to change the neck angle which would be a whole other can of worms.

 

Another quick and important question, how many springs you have in there already.

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