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Pope on a Rope

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  1. The treble bleed mod can get you jangle with humbuckers. With humbuckers I use a .001uF capacitor on the bridge volume pot. The neck pickup I'll use .022uF or the .001uF depending on what I feel like at the time. The 001uf cap doesn't cut the highs so much when you adjust the volume down. Set some dirt on your amp and roll back the volume on the guitar. Lowering the volume cuts and cleans up the lows leaving the dirt on the highs. It also adds a bit of a compression effect. It's certainly worth trying before changing out the pickups. Cheap and easy to undo.
  2. I'm sorry -- I think that's a bit of a specious argument: You're comparing a guitar where: 1) different saddles (granted), 2) vastly different bridge size, design, etc., 3) vastly different pickup (P90 vs Tele bridge), 4) Bridge PU mounted to body rather than bridge), Need I go on? That's so many variables, I think it's presumptuous to proclaim that the lack of twang must be attributable to the difference in saddles.... FYI, I have a modern (read MIM standard) tele with a six-saddle bridge and Alnico 3 pickups and that thing twangs like a mutherfucker when I want it to... Oh yes. I Am sorry. How presumptuous of me to post an answer based on personal observation and experience.
  3. I havent found that. I have a trad tele in every way except the bridge pickup is a p90. It does not twang. Maybe a little playing dead clean, but all my other Teles its very hard to dial the twang out. You can hear the twang unplugged BIG TIME.....Rather that trying to enhance some gossimer link to twangness. How are the saddles on the P90 guitar shaped? I suspect that they are not barrel type saddles like on your other guitars.
  4. Didn't Fender run an ad with a young Hendrix buying a tele during the Super Bowl a few years back? Not unless Fender was trying to sell Coca-Cola or Pepsi. I don't remember which it was but I know it wasn't a guitar commercial from Fender.
  5. I would use 400 grit to sand it all down. Then 600 grit for sanding the primer coat after respraying it. Even though you used only a couple coats it will still leave visible edges and a noticeable dip if you prime over that now. You have to sand each coat back (feather), using a block to make the surface as flat as possible to prevent the edges of each coat from standing out in additional coats. You should have more primer exposed between the color coat and the bare wood.
  6. By feathered out you mean lightly sanding the areas around the sanded areas? How far should I sand them? Sand with a block until you can't feel any edges between the wood and the top layer of paint. You usually need to sand quite a bit away from the actual chip or whatever you are trying to repair. At the stage you're in now, I would feather back all the edges, rough up the rest of it and prime the whole thing again. The way you are doing it now is just a lot of extra work. It's quicker and easier just to work on the body as a whole rather than pecking at bunch of little defects. If you find defects that need attention after you prime you should use the filler over the primer. I would use polyester putty. It's meant for filling small defects and scratches and can be used over bare metal, bare wood, paint and primer. It also sands easy and does not shrink. I wouldn't use wood putty unless I was trying to match wood for a stained or another transparent finish.
  7. so sand down bigger spots? Don't see how it'd look bad. 4 coats of sand and sealer, 3 coats of primer, 3 blue coats (obviously sanding between all of these) then lay the rest of the blue over the whole guitar. Any imperfection that gets painted over will be magnified just like Angry Tele said. Those edges will stand out. the edges of the sanded areas should really be feathered out before applying sealer and primer.
  8. You can't just sand out spots like that. That will be quite noticeable when you paint it. You need to feather the edges out much further than the actual area you are repairing. That will look as bad as it did with the painted over chips and gouges.
  9. Why should I hate him because you don't like what he said? Some of you are {censored}ing pussies when it comes to what other people say.
  10. Sharp fret ends are a training tool used to teach girly-handed bitches how to relax their grip and not strangle the guitar's neck as they play.
  11. Before replacing anything, try some lubricated contact cleaner in the switch and pots.
  12. You obviously don't get to see many historic buildings? You humorless twats all seemed to skip over and cut out the actual meat of my post.
  13. Probably the humidity (or lack thereof). I live in Maine (where it gets REALLY humid) and I had a guitar tech tell me that if you have a guitar with an unfinished neck, it must stay in its case during the summer. Or else. If that were true my SG would be a pretzel. I left it hanging with no finish for two years in a non climate controlled environment in New England. If wood was as prone to warping and twisting as many people seem to believe, historic buildings and antique furniture would look like they were designed by architects and carpenters from Whoville.
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