Members hardtdc Posted July 29, 2010 Members Share Posted July 29, 2010 Just clicked on a link from Guitar Player Mag on-line version that was in my e-mail today. They have instructions on how to build your own power attenuator. Pretty cool. Seems easy enough to build. I might have to give this a try if I can find enough free time. http://www.guitarplayer.com/article/power-attenuator-project/July-2010/116279 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members BG76 Posted July 29, 2010 Members Share Posted July 29, 2010 Looks good but I don't think I paid $85 for my Weber - and I knew it was wired right before I turned my amp on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mrbrown49 Posted July 29, 2010 Members Share Posted July 29, 2010 Meh. The resistor based ones tend to suck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members PlinytheWelder Posted July 29, 2010 Members Share Posted July 29, 2010 There's a DIY version of the Dr. Z / Trainwreck AirBrake that's over at The Amp garage forum that's pretty good. I actually built a different one out of one of these: . It's one of those in wall volume controls rated at 100W.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mrbrown49 Posted July 29, 2010 Members Share Posted July 29, 2010 ^ Lpad. Basically a suped up variable resistor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members PlinytheWelder Posted July 29, 2010 Members Share Posted July 29, 2010 ^ Lpad. Basically a suped up variable resistor. Nope... autotransformer.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Joby1knobi Posted July 29, 2010 Members Share Posted July 29, 2010 There's a DIY version of the Dr. Z / Trainwreck AirBrake that's over at The Amp garage forum that's pretty good. I built an airbrake clone and use it all the time with my Marshall 2061. Fun little project that is really useful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members cuppster Posted July 29, 2010 Members Share Posted July 29, 2010 I just use a $15 L-Pad from Parts Express, but it definitely sucks some tone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ashasha Posted July 29, 2010 Members Share Posted July 29, 2010 I just use a $15 L-Pad from Parts Express, but it definitely sucks some tone. Put a treble bypass cap over it. I probably used the exact same l-pad and it does (as do all of them) suck some tone. The cap helped a lot. But I also found that I was able to compensate for a lot of it with just the amps treble knob. Here's one that I built a while back that I mounted on a homemade ampstand (attenuator is on the bottom). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members NHLfan2010 Posted July 29, 2010 Members Share Posted July 29, 2010 There's a DIY version of the Dr. Z / Trainwreck AirBrake that's over at The Amp garage forum that's pretty good. I actually built a different one out of one of these: . It's one of those in wall volume controls rated at 100W.... How did you do that? Any links? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members dcindc Posted July 29, 2010 Members Share Posted July 29, 2010 I use the bigass Lpads from parts express. Get the 50 watt or higher models. If they are good enough to use in the crossovers of my home built reference speaker systems, they are good enough to use for an attenuator. As said, use a treble bleed cap if you are turning it down to a micro watt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members PlinytheWelder Posted July 29, 2010 Members Share Posted July 29, 2010 How did you do that? Any links? Here's one:http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-552 They sound a lot better than I thought they would and took the full output ofmy 100W Laney for hours on end. I really tried to kill it and it survived. The one I have is a Nutone and I got it for free at my job.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members NHLfan2010 Posted July 29, 2010 Members Share Posted July 29, 2010 Here's one:http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-552They sound a lot better than I thought they would and took the full output ofmy 100W Laney for hours on end. I really tried to kill it and it survived.The one I have is a Nutone and I got it for free at my job.... How did you build it though? That is what I was asking. I can't see the back from the pics and I was wondering how hard it is to hook up to a simple project box with 2 1/4 jacks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members PlinytheWelder Posted July 30, 2010 Members Share Posted July 30, 2010 How did you build it though? That is what I was asking. I can't see the back from the pics and I was wondering how hard it is to hook up to a simple project box with 2 1/4 jacks? It's super easy, they have screw terminals, just stick the stripped wire in and screw it down. +/- in and +/- out..... These things are 2 channel, but you only need one. Another weird thing about them is that they show an 8ohm load to the amp no matter what speakers you have hooked up on the output... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jrockbridge Posted July 30, 2010 Members Share Posted July 30, 2010 There's a DIY version of the Dr. Z / Trainwreck AirBrake that's over at The Amp garage forum that's pretty good.I actually built a different one out of one of these:It's one of those in wall volume controls rated at 100W.... The AirBrake would be a good one to build. I own one and it's very transparent unlike most attenuators which are horrible tone suckers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members PlinytheWelder Posted July 30, 2010 Members Share Posted July 30, 2010 The AirBrake would be a good one to build. I own one and it's very transparent unlike most attenuators which are horrible tone suckers. Here's some AirBrake plans:http://ampgarage.com/forum/files/attenuator_layout_final_195_198.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members NHLfan2010 Posted July 30, 2010 Members Share Posted July 30, 2010 It's super easy, they have screw terminals, just stick the stripped wire in and screw it down. +/- in and +/- out..... These things are 2 channel, but you only need one. Another weird thing about them is that they show an 8ohm load to the amp no matter what speakers you have hooked up on the output... Cool. That sounds easy enough! How is the tone through it? Is there much tone "suckage"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members cuppster Posted July 30, 2010 Members Share Posted July 30, 2010 I use the bigass Lpads from parts express. Get the 50 watt or higher models.If they are good enough to use in the crossovers of my home built reference speaker systems, they are good enough to use for an attenuator.As said, use a treble bleed cap if you are turning it down to a micro watt. How is a treble bleed cap wired? Is that just a cap bridging the input/output? What values do you use? I'd love for my L-Pad to not sound so poopy. I'd use my 18 Watt TMB way more often. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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